Subs and Amp
Subs and Amp
Hello All,
I wanted to add subs and amp to the bose system that comes equipped with the car. I was wondering what people had out there and whats the best subs and amp I could get. I heard JL are good. Any ideas? Thanks!!!
I wanted to add subs and amp to the bose system that comes equipped with the car. I was wondering what people had out there and whats the best subs and amp I could get. I heard JL are good. Any ideas? Thanks!!!
What do you mean best? Loudest, tightest, bang for your buck, best fit?
I got the Sound Ordnance B-8P Single 8" Bandpass and I'm happy with it. It's an all in one (sub and amp) box with line level inputs. It's loud enough to fill in the lows and rattle the mirrors, and it fits in the little space behind the rear fender opposite the jack compartment. I ran some wires up to the front to relocate the gain control for more control. I couldn't be happier.
Lot of people like the infinity basslink too. Can't remember why I ended up going with the SO. Maybe I thought bandpass would be tighter?
I got the Sound Ordnance B-8P Single 8" Bandpass and I'm happy with it. It's an all in one (sub and amp) box with line level inputs. It's loud enough to fill in the lows and rattle the mirrors, and it fits in the little space behind the rear fender opposite the jack compartment. I ran some wires up to the front to relocate the gain control for more control. I couldn't be happier.
Lot of people like the infinity basslink too. Can't remember why I ended up going with the SO. Maybe I thought bandpass would be tighter?
How much do you want to spend?
How much trunk space are you willing to give up?
Those are the next two questions that need to be answered for us to give you useful help.
(I installed and sold for over 10 years)
How much trunk space are you willing to give up?
Those are the next two questions that need to be answered for us to give you useful help.
(I installed and sold for over 10 years)
I just picked up an Alpine M500 digital amp with speaker-level inputs and tapped into the stock "sub" lines from the stock amp. That and a single 12" Alpine gave me all the low end the Bose was missing.
I put in a "custom" fit box I bought on ebay, from a box building store. I put cheap leftover Sony Xplod stuff. I had it laying around and haven't any custom stereo stuff in many years. Lol, figured I would explain myself before getting flamed with comments about cheap gear. My point is, you can easily put 2 12's in your trunk with an amp and only lose the space between the shock towers. You will def need to address the sound deadening too.
I currently have a Boston G510RS enclosure. It consists of a G5 10" sub & a passive radiator which simulates a ported box design but with a very small footprint, 0.5 cubic feet. I have a Boston GT2200 amp that puts out 900 watts RMS connected to it. It has pretty good output. I did have to use sound deadening on the trunk lid and license plate. Sadly Boston Acoustics stopped making car audio gear, so these are hard to find.
I really like JL subs. The JL W6 is a very nice sub, but I recommend a slightly larger enclosure with them. I've owned all the the older W6v2's, 10, 12, & 13.5. I used one whenever I had them in the car, with the exception of the 10's. I had a pair of those. They all sounded a lot better when I used a bigger enclosure than JL recommended. I plan on getting a 12W6v3 at some point, and I will do the same with this sub.
The questions asked above are good ones that will help determine what may work for you.
I really like JL subs. The JL W6 is a very nice sub, but I recommend a slightly larger enclosure with them. I've owned all the the older W6v2's, 10, 12, & 13.5. I used one whenever I had them in the car, with the exception of the 10's. I had a pair of those. They all sounded a lot better when I used a bigger enclosure than JL recommended. I plan on getting a 12W6v3 at some point, and I will do the same with this sub.
The questions asked above are good ones that will help determine what may work for you.
I have an 09 maxima sv. So I don't mind loosing half the trunk space. I'm willing to spend about $800 for 2 subs and an amp. So JL subs are the best? Thanks everyone this helps a lot. I prefer 2 10s like I already have a box for it. I want subs that really hit low but not too the point where the car is rattling like crazy.
Last edited by edelynpl; Feb 16, 2014 at 02:39 PM.
this is my setup. It sounds great with Bose system. An MB Quart 1000 watt mono amp pushing two Rockford Punch 12's. BTW, the little Soundstream box (INT-2BX) made this install a cinch with the Bose system.




When it comes to sound does it matter if its 2 ohm or 4 ohm?
I found these two on amazon. Which one do you guys believe its better quality?
Amazon.com : JL Audio 10W3v3-2 Single 2 ohm 10" W3v3 Subwoofer 10W3v3 : Vehicle Subwoofers : Electronics
Thanks for the input! And yes I admit i'm not that educated on subs. Sorry
I found these two on amazon. Which one do you guys believe its better quality?
Thanks for the input! And yes I admit i'm not that educated on subs. Sorry
this is my setup. It sounds great with Bose system. An MB Quart 1000 watt mono amp pushing two Rockford Punch 12's. BTW, the little Soundstream box (INT-2BX) made this install a cinch with the Bose system.
Amazon.com: Soundstream INT-2BX Digital Equalizer w/ Subwoofer Output: Car Electronics



Amazon.com: Soundstream INT-2BX Digital Equalizer w/ Subwoofer Output: Car Electronics



Does your car rattle much?
Do you think this is a good choice?
If yes, then I will get two of these. What amp would go well with this?
Will this amp work for 2 10w3 jl subs?
And would this help at all?
Thank you so much!!!!
For that amp, get the single 4 ohm subs.
You then wire the subs in parallel, and that gives you a 2 ohm load, for maximum power from the amp.
The bass control is a nice addition, but not required. It lets you adjust the subs up or down from your seat without having to play with the amp or adjust the rest of your speakers.
But yes, that is what you need.
You then wire the subs in parallel, and that gives you a 2 ohm load, for maximum power from the amp.
The bass control is a nice addition, but not required. It lets you adjust the subs up or down from your seat without having to play with the amp or adjust the rest of your speakers.
But yes, that is what you need.
Last edited by MaximaDrvr; Feb 16, 2014 at 08:14 PM.
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