Very excited to get to play around with another Maxima and of course come to the org for info. Just purchased my newest 2010 Maxima SV last week and notice some hazing on the top part of the headlights (the part that faces up). Anyone have a quick fix for this? Possibly buff it out or buy some headlight restoration kit from the store?

 

Try Meguiar's PlastX first, it is a plastic polish and cleaner. You'll want to start with the least abrasive product, then move forward to the more harsher and timely stuff such as a full headlight restoration kit. However, if it has began to haze and flake, like it did with my old vehicle, then you will have to resort to the headlight restoration kit.

If PlastX does not work, then a headlight restoration kit may be in need. I recommend the 3M Headlight Restoration System that you can attach the sanding discs to your drill. It saves your hand, time, and most important works. I used Mother's PowerBall 4Lights and it did not work. It left hairline scratches that took forever to remove with their polish kit, so I went and bought the 3M kit and it saved the day. I sent an email to Mother's and they sent me a test kit for a new product which at the time was not yet released, and it was identical to the 3M kit.

After using any headlight restoration kit or polish on your headlights, treat it as if it were your paint. Apply wax, sealant, or some protectant that has UV protection. Otherwise, it will oxidize back just as fast since you just removed the initial layer of protection.

Here is a photo of the before and after with the 3M kit (after I removed the hairline scratches from the Mother's kit). It is not the best since I needed to just remove all the scratches from before as I needed my lights to drive in the morning.



On another note, has anybody installed a clear bra onto their headlights and foglights? I sent an email out to a couple of clear bra installers, and they raised concern about installing it onto the HID headlights as it can crack the lens underneath since the heat has nowhere to escape and the plastic film basically acts as a magnifying glass.

 

I've had both 3M and XPel film applied on my headlights... both HID and non-HID and I have never had an issue... I would be shocked if anything in the lens would break because of it. Sounds fishy to me.

 

I have the exact same issue on my 2012. Only on the part that faces up. I supposed it's because my car is not garaged and always outside in the elements. I'll definitely have to get Meguiar's.

 

Same problem here, also a 2010...odd just the top part of the headlights

 

The simple buffing it with whitening toothpaste trick works also but you do want to follow up with PlastX and a UV protectant of some sort or else it WILL come back!

 

Eyelids?

 

i see it on lots of headlights, probably from the sun since its only on the very top edges. a light wetsand with 2000 grit, polish with a buffer, and headlight sealant and it'll look good as new

 

U know, u read my mind...when I get a chance I'm gonna clean them up and do this

 

The 350Z and Corvettes are known to have this issue, just do a simple Google search for "cracked headlights clear bra." i just wanted to check in and see if anybody has it on their Max. I think I will just stick with heaving waxing or Opti-Coating my lights if I wanted to go all out. Texas really beats down hard with the UV, and I wonder how long the lights will last before a correction has to be done. The fog lights are definitely more prone for whatever reason. When I was looking at the Maximas at the dealer, all of the used or CPO vehicles had oxidation (cloudy and hazy) on the foglights.

 

I do want to say that when my headlights were modded I used that FW1 wash & wax stuff to clean up the front a little bit for the pictures of the work and little did I know at the time (it was at night) that the stuff took the ugly haze right off of the top part of the headlights!! It's been a month now and it has not been back and there have been a strong of some really hot days in Rhode Island, so... so far, so good.

So, not to thread-jack or anything but I did want to put that out there.

As for the FW1 product itself: listen, many have their own opinions about it and it's either a hit or a miss for people and there's no in between -- like a red head. For me, I think the stuff is great and I swear by it for those "in-between" washes where the car is not too dirty for most people's standards but dirty enough for you to notice and you're looking to get her gussied-up on the quick quick and be on your way.

I'm extremely choosey as to who will put their hands on my vehicle and am very meticulous when it comes to keeping a clean car and protecting the paint and clear coat; she gets fully detailed twice a year (April & October) with the clay bar rub, the glaze, wax and polish; the whole nine. I'm the same way with products on my car and there have been no negative results from using the FW1 product, neither short term nor long term.

 

Currently have a coat of DP Poli-Coat Paint Sealant on the car that was applied in late May when I got the car. Plan to put on another coat on the next wash, but so far it has fared well through some very tough rainstorms with good beading and water sheeting and Texas heat. I have not tried applying it to the windows or glass in fear of smearing, but it is a tell-tale sign when a product is beginning to deteriorate after a rain storm. I barely use my windshield wipers since I use Stoner's Invisible Glass, and after 2 downpours the slickness will begin to fade as the water beading will require more force (read: wind) to move up my windshield. Meguiar's spray wax (Ultimate Quikwax) has done better, although is pricier and is more prone to smearing. I usually apply any product on the glass using newspapers to save time and microfiber towels.