Lighting - what do I need?
Lighting - what do I need?
First off, I have factory HIDs. I was looking on vleds.com but I don't know what I need.. I want DRL LED brake ducts, fog lights and low beams, front and rear markers. Any set up recommendations? This is what I'm thinking for DRL: LED brake ducts, fog lights (not sure if fog lights should be DRL or not), should I do (not as DRL and if they are plug and play) LED/HID low beams so they match the fogs, ducts, when turned on? Front and rear markers (If the markers are also the turn signal bulbs, can I have it so they are turn yellow only when I'm turning? Should I do my brake duct LEDs to turn yellow as well when turning? So, someone guide me to the parts and what to run as DRL and not, yellow to switch back to white. Thank you!
I would advise against putting LEDs in your low beams, high beams, or fog lights. I know you didn't mention high beams, but I just wanted to clarify that putting LEDs in these types of applications will not be any benefit towards efficient lighting as the diodes of the LED will not have a hotspot to give the projector or reflector the distance it needs for sufficient lighting. The HIDs will be a better fit towards these applications, so therefore I recommend checking out The Retrofit Source for some quality kits. To color match the low beams and fog lights, use the same ballast and same bulbs with the same color temperatures.
You may believe that putting an LED into the projector will yield better or similar performance in comparison to the stock HID that is already in there (if you have it), but you will be wrong. Vehicles equipped with LED headlights today actually utilize more than three to four projectors within the headlight housing that usually comes out of one projector that you visually see from outside the car. Each projector has its purpose, usually one or two are designated for width of the light and the other are for the hotspots giving you the distance. Some don't even use a projector and use an emitter in a reflector type housing that bounces the light in all directions for width and giving it a purposeful hotspot for the distance. Here is a dissection of the LED headlights you find on the Toyota Prius: http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...LED-headlights
You may believe that putting an LED into the projector will yield better or similar performance in comparison to the stock HID that is already in there (if you have it), but you will be wrong. Vehicles equipped with LED headlights today actually utilize more than three to four projectors within the headlight housing that usually comes out of one projector that you visually see from outside the car. Each projector has its purpose, usually one or two are designated for width of the light and the other are for the hotspots giving you the distance. Some don't even use a projector and use an emitter in a reflector type housing that bounces the light in all directions for width and giving it a purposeful hotspot for the distance. Here is a dissection of the LED headlights you find on the Toyota Prius: http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...LED-headlights
Last edited by Daaavid; Jun 18, 2014 at 10:51 PM.
I would advise against putting LEDs in your low beams, high beams, or fog lights. I know you didn't mention high beams, but I just wanted to clarify that putting LEDs in these types of applications will not be any benefit towards efficient lighting as the diodes of the LED will not have a hotspot to give the projector or reflector the distance it needs for sufficient lighting. The HIDs will be a better fit towards these applications, so therefore I recommend checking out The Retrofit Source for some quality kits. To color match the low beams and fog lights, use the same ballast and same bulbs with the same color temperatures. You may believe that putting an LED into the projector will yield better or similar performance in comparison to the stock HID that is already in there (if you have it), but you will be wrong. Vehicles equipped with LED headlights today actually utilize more than three to four projectors within the headlight housing that usually comes out of one projector that you visually see from outside the car. Each projector has its purpose, usually one or two are designated for width of the light and the other are for the hotspots giving you the distance. Some don't even use a projector and use an emitter in a reflector type housing that bounces the light in all directions for width and giving it a purposeful hotspot for the distance. Here is a dissection of the LED headlights you find on the Toyota Prius: http://www.hidplanet.com/forums/show...LED-headlights
If you want to match fogs to the factory low HID's you will need 35w 4300k HID's (H11 bulbs type). Or you can swap out the low HID bulbs for whatever K you want and then buy a fog kit to match. Just make sure you buy the bulbs from the same company because the same color temp can be different across companies. The low hid bulbs are HID-D2S. As for leds there are two bulbs up front that you can swap out. The amber turn signal/parking signal and the corner light. The corner light is a bulb type is a 2825 type but will work with just about any T-10 bulb. It will actually work with the same bulbs as the reverse bulbs. The turn/parking bulb is a tricky one to LED and there aren't many options because it is a CK style plug. You need to find a CK style switchback or all white led. Many people have use V Leds for their switchbacks but I found one on ebay that works just as well for about half the price. You will also need a resistor to prevent hyperflashing. You simply connect one side to the turn signal positive and another to a ground.
If you want to match fogs to the factory low HID's you will need 35w 4300k HID's (H11 bulbs type). Or you can swap out the low HID bulbs for whatever K you want and then buy a fog kit to match. Just make sure you buy the bulbs from the same company because the same color temp can be different across companies. The low hid bulbs are HID-D2S. As for leds there are two bulbs up front that you can swap out. The amber turn signal/parking signal and the corner light. The corner light is a bulb type is a 2825 type but will work with just about any T-10 bulb. It will actually work with the same bulbs as the reverse bulbs. The turn/parking bulb is a tricky one to LED and there aren't many options because it is a CK style plug. You need to find a CK style switchback or all white led. Many people have use V Leds for their switchbacks but I found one on ebay that works just as well for about half the price. You will also need a resistor to prevent hyperflashing. You simply connect one side to the turn signal positive and another to a ground.
Also I must ask how do the DRLs turn on and off? Decided I want brake ducts only as DRLs. Is it controlled by car or a remote of some sort? Also I want brake ducts and new turn signals to flash yellow when I lock/unlock.
If you want to match fogs to the factory low HID's you will need 35w 4300k HID's (H11 bulbs type). Or you can swap out the low HID bulbs for whatever K you want and then buy a fog kit to match. Just make sure you buy the bulbs from the same company because the same color temp can be different across companies. The low hid bulbs are HID-D2S. As for leds there are two bulbs up front that you can swap out. The amber turn signal/parking signal and the corner light. The corner light is a bulb type is a 2825 type but will work with just about any T-10 bulb. It will actually work with the same bulbs as the reverse bulbs. The turn/parking bulb is a tricky one to LED and there aren't many options because it is a CK style plug. You need to find a CK style switchback or all white led. Many people have use V Leds for their switchbacks but I found one on ebay that works just as well for about half the price. You will also need a resistor to prevent hyperflashing. You simply connect one side to the turn signal positive and another to a ground.
Also I must ask how do the DRLs turn on and off? Decided I want brake ducts only as DRLs. Is it controlled by car or a remote of some sort? Also I want brake ducts and new turn signals to flash yellow when I lock/unlock.
Okay, the HID kit.. what kind of ballast I need? I'm asking because Daavid posted that I need the same ballasts as low beams so the light's colors and brightness are matching.. if that isn't the case then whatever ballast for fogs I get, any HID bulb I install for factory HID headlamps and aftermarket HID fogs will produce the same?
Also I must ask how do the DRLs turn on and off? Decided I want brake ducts only as DRLs. Is it controlled by car or a remote of some sort? Also I want brake ducts and new turn signals to flash yellow when I lock/unlock.
Also I must ask how do the DRLs turn on and off? Decided I want brake ducts only as DRLs. Is it controlled by car or a remote of some sort? Also I want brake ducts and new turn signals to flash yellow when I lock/unlock.
As for the foglight HID, you'll need to find a quality kit. Some members here use eBay to find a kit, but those kits are usually hit or miss. Given the cheap nature of the kit, that's not usually a problem. The only issue is that if the kit goes bad, then you'll have to go back and go through all the labor of exchanging it out from underneath or removing the bumper. The HID kit you'll need to find will be labeled along the lines of "H11 HID kit." I suggested a theretrofitsource due to their customer service and actual warranty, but there are many others available. Just do your research on them.
So yes, mjhuffer is correct. The factory HIDs that you already have are 4300k bulbs. You can find another 4300k HID bulb that you can use for your H11 HID foglight kit, but you will run into the issue of your switchback turn signals as they will either be 5000k or 6000k in temperature thus being whiter and bluer than the 4300k bulbs. Now for your LED DRL/switchback turn signals, you can tap into existing wires on the car so that they will turn on automatically when it detects the engine is on. I do not have any further info on that, however.
Sorry, I did not read your post to its entirety the first time around. If you already have factory HIDs, all you'll need to do it swap out the headlight bulbs with the same color temp and brand as you will install on the foglight bulbs. The factory HID ballast that already comes on the car is ridiculously priced, so leave the factory HID ballast alone. All you'll need to do is change the bulb in the headlight and purchase new HID bulbs after you've installed your foglight HID kit from the same manufacturer and color temp. As for the foglight HID, you'll need to find a quality kit. Some members here use eBay to find a kit, but those kits are usually hit or miss. Given the cheap nature of the kit, that's not usually a problem. The only issue is that if the kit goes bad, then you'll have to go back and go through all the labor of exchanging it out from underneath or removing the bumper. The HID kit you'll need to find will be labeled along the lines of "H11 HID kit." I suggested a theretrofitsource due to their customer service and actual warranty, but there are many others available. Just do your research on them. So yes, mjhuffer is correct. The factory HIDs that you already have are 4300k bulbs. You can find another 4300k HID bulb that you can use for your H11 HID foglight kit, but you will run into the issue of your switchback turn signals as they will either be 5000k or 6000k in temperature thus being whiter and bluer than the 4300k bulbs. Now for your LED DRL/switchback turn signals, you can tap into existing wires on the car so that they will turn on automatically when it detects the engine is on. I do not have any further info on that, however.
The task is fairly simple. YouTube has a ton of tutorials, and I believe the forum should have some tutorials, too. It is straightforward, but there is labor involved (turning your wheel lock to lock to access the wheel fender) and any body or electronic shop will be more than willing with doing it since they can charge labor for an easy task. The warranty should not be voided unless they can determine that the cause for the defunct was from the HID kit you installed. Stick with a quality 35W AC ballast HID Kit with a relay harness to prevent flickering and you should be good to go.
Here you go. And I went with the OPT7 AC 35W kit and it works just fine with no relay or harness. The amp draw even on startup is less than 5 amps and both fog wires are rated for 15amps combined. At least that is what the fuse says. I have no flickering or problems starting up. If you got to my build log in my sig then you can even see where I mounted the ballasts. Just be careful when installing HID bulbs. Wear latex gloves because the oils on your skin will cause premature build failure.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121097224618?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Last edited by mjhuffer; Jun 19, 2014 at 03:44 PM.
Tell me, when you have switch back turn signals.. When lights are off the turn signals on will go to bright amber to no light at all. But when lights are on, what will the process be? Heres what I'm hoping to happen.. Turn signals off they will be white, turn signal initiated the amber goes from weaker to brighter then they turn white when turn is completed.
Tell me, when you have switch back turn signals.. When lights are off the turn signals on will go to bright amber to no light at all. But when lights are on, what will the process be? Heres what I'm hoping to happen.. Turn signals off they will be white, turn signal initiated the amber goes from weaker to brighter then they turn white when turn is completed.
You can do it man, YouTube is the answer like Daavid said. I've learned so much crazy stuff on youtube.. I just learned last week to repair my boiler pressure release valve and learned how to diagnose it as well and besides they even teach people how to build bombs its ridiculous, lmao.
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