2014 max foglights while parking lights are on.
#1
2014 max foglights while parking lights are on.
Hello all,
After 2 altimas I made the jump to a max this weekend and I figured it was time to join some new forums.it's a 2014 gunmetal SV with sport and cold weather package. Didn't get the nav, pretty upset as it was not reveled to me that it wouldn't have bluetooth audio without nav but it is what it is.
My first question. Car is at the shop now for window tint, suntek paint protection film and remote start using oem key foB. First thing I p,an to do when it comes home is figure out how to run fogs while parking lights aRe on. It baffles me how they wired the fogs.
I have searched and Searched and found several asking but no solid diy, how to write ups, or solutions. I have even found several diy on older gens. So my question is, are there any good writeups or diy on changing fog lights without any major rewire that will alow my fogs to come on with parks using the factory switch? I really do not want to add a separate switch.
Thanks and am excited to begin my forum cruising.
After 2 altimas I made the jump to a max this weekend and I figured it was time to join some new forums.it's a 2014 gunmetal SV with sport and cold weather package. Didn't get the nav, pretty upset as it was not reveled to me that it wouldn't have bluetooth audio without nav but it is what it is.
My first question. Car is at the shop now for window tint, suntek paint protection film and remote start using oem key foB. First thing I p,an to do when it comes home is figure out how to run fogs while parking lights aRe on. It baffles me how they wired the fogs.
I have searched and Searched and found several asking but no solid diy, how to write ups, or solutions. I have even found several diy on older gens. So my question is, are there any good writeups or diy on changing fog lights without any major rewire that will alow my fogs to come on with parks using the factory switch? I really do not want to add a separate switch.
Thanks and am excited to begin my forum cruising.
#2
hey there, sounds like you got the exact same car as me. the gunmetal looks so good with the sport rims.
anyways, i just wanted to ask a question. what remote start system did you go with? i too am looking into putting one in my max. once you get it back post on how good it works and if you have any issues or complaints.
also looking for answer to your original question as well.
anyways, i just wanted to ask a question. what remote start system did you go with? i too am looking into putting one in my max. once you get it back post on how good it works and if you have any issues or complaints.
also looking for answer to your original question as well.
#3
Yeah I really hoping there is a good dyi on this that doesn't gut my wiring...
I got the car back today from Columbus car audio in Columbus Ohio. Let me just say these guys are so great to work with. Reasonable prices and will deal if your doing a few things. They take pics of the install along the way, keep you updated via text, and man did my suntek film, suntek carbon window tint and remote start turn out great.
To answer your question they used compustart 7200 with data link blade-al for the immobilizer bypass.
I've only had it a day but it great so far. it's buikt into the oem keyfob which I love. No extra fobs to carry around. You hit the lock button 3 times and the outside of the parking lights stay lit and on comes the car. Shuts off after 10 if you forget about it. Once your ready to roll you hop in press the start ignition and away you go. If someone trya to tamper with the car before you unlock it or the fob is not near it will shut car off and immobilize until the fob enters the vehicle. I'll let you know if I have any issues but it has a lifetime warranty including labor.....
Anyone on the fogs ???
I got the car back today from Columbus car audio in Columbus Ohio. Let me just say these guys are so great to work with. Reasonable prices and will deal if your doing a few things. They take pics of the install along the way, keep you updated via text, and man did my suntek film, suntek carbon window tint and remote start turn out great.
To answer your question they used compustart 7200 with data link blade-al for the immobilizer bypass.
I've only had it a day but it great so far. it's buikt into the oem keyfob which I love. No extra fobs to carry around. You hit the lock button 3 times and the outside of the parking lights stay lit and on comes the car. Shuts off after 10 if you forget about it. Once your ready to roll you hop in press the start ignition and away you go. If someone trya to tamper with the car before you unlock it or the fob is not near it will shut car off and immobilize until the fob enters the vehicle. I'll let you know if I have any issues but it has a lifetime warranty including labor.....
Anyone on the fogs ???
#4
Welcome to maxima.org.
I don't believe anyone has done it but it should not be too difficult. Below is a link to the FSM. Having access to the FSM is one of the reasons I got another Maxima. The fog lamp info is in section EXL. If you know someone who knows how to read wiring diagrams they should be able to figure out a way to do it fairly easily. The signal for the park lights and the fog lamp relay are both under the hood in what is called the IPDM.
It can be done fairly easily without a switch but the easiest way is just to add a switch. There is an empty space to mount a toggle switch next to the key holder. I made DRL's out of my high beams, just like the Canadian Maximas, and mounted a toggle switch in that location. It looks stock.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2014%20Maxima/
I have the 2014 Gunmetal sport/tech with the dark 19" rims. It's a great color choice. I don't see too many 7th Gens in that color which is a good thing.
I don't believe anyone has done it but it should not be too difficult. Below is a link to the FSM. Having access to the FSM is one of the reasons I got another Maxima. The fog lamp info is in section EXL. If you know someone who knows how to read wiring diagrams they should be able to figure out a way to do it fairly easily. The signal for the park lights and the fog lamp relay are both under the hood in what is called the IPDM.
It can be done fairly easily without a switch but the easiest way is just to add a switch. There is an empty space to mount a toggle switch next to the key holder. I made DRL's out of my high beams, just like the Canadian Maximas, and mounted a toggle switch in that location. It looks stock.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/2014%20Maxima/
I have the 2014 Gunmetal sport/tech with the dark 19" rims. It's a great color choice. I don't see too many 7th Gens in that color which is a good thing.
Last edited by Nopike; 02-01-2015 at 07:14 AM.
#5
I have not figured it all out yet but you would need to get at the fog lamp relay in the IPDM. There are two wires running to the relay coil. One wire provides power to energize the coil while the other provides a ground. This is controlled by your combination switch/stalk. You would cut both of these wires. You would run one wire to ground and the other would be run to the park lights wire in the IPDM. In this case anytime you turned on the park lights the fog light relay would be energized and the fog lights would turn on.
Although with this method you would no longer have any control of the fogs with the stalk switch. Did I say this was going to be easy?
Although with this method you would no longer have any control of the fogs with the stalk switch. Did I say this was going to be easy?
Last edited by Nopike; 02-01-2015 at 09:46 AM.
#7
You can probably only do it in the ways I explained.
The way the signals from the stalk to the BCM are controlled probably will not allow you to have independent fogs. That is why I do not believe anyone has done it to their 7th Gen. The headlights have to be on.
I did independent fogs on my 4th Gen. The 7th Gen makes it much more difficult if not impossible.
The way the signals from the stalk to the BCM are controlled probably will not allow you to have independent fogs. That is why I do not believe anyone has done it to their 7th Gen. The headlights have to be on.
I did independent fogs on my 4th Gen. The 7th Gen makes it much more difficult if not impossible.
Last edited by Nopike; 02-01-2015 at 04:55 PM.
#13
You can grab a bluetooth obd, then download the Nissan app. From there you can control things from your smart phone such as fog lights, parking lights, brights, etc by a push of the screen on your phone. It saves you from having to re-wire anything.
#14
That's worth a thought I suppose. I can't believe there isn't a simple wire solution to bring power to the oem fog switch.
I don't quite understand why nissan built it this way. Our 14 altima doesn't do this, and my 13 f150 fogs don't either.
I don't quite understand why nissan built it this way. Our 14 altima doesn't do this, and my 13 f150 fogs don't either.
#15
I'm guessing for android? Which adapter? Link to the app?
#16
Like this ?
Attachment 6889
Attachment 6889
#19
I've asked around shops I've been to. Just bs'ing and brought up my interest in this mod as well. Same thing every time, their tech will have to look at a wiring map for our car and then get under the hood to do it. Sounds like a lot of wasted money taking it to a shop to get this done. I'm not in it for the Bluetooth idea either.
I'm also in for an easier way, if possible. If shops can figure it out, I'm sure somebody here can do the same. It's just not this guy lol.
I'm also in for an easier way, if possible. If shops can figure it out, I'm sure somebody here can do the same. It's just not this guy lol.
#20
Look up the defcon video about ODB2 hacking. From my limited knowledge, something has to be done to trick the car into thinking the headlights are ON when they are not in order to turn on the fog lights.
#22
Easiest way to do this is buy a separate switch to receive power only when parking lights are on... So when that switch is on fog lights turn on when parking lights are on..then you can turn off even if parking lights remain on. Keep in mind though that in most states.. When high beams come on... Fogs should cut off... Only becomes an issue during inspections(which can be bypassed if you take the bulbs out of the housings) I posted a video of the new Motordyne exhaust, when it pulls back in from the test drive... You can see how the above setup looks..
#23
Just wire up a set of relays to take care of this problem. I do this to bypass the factory fog light cut-out when going to bright. You need two relays (one for each light), and some 12ga speaker wire with some 16ga primary. You need to find the positive wire (12v) going to the fog light and then cut it in half. Your wire diagram for the relay is as follows:
Terminal 85: 12 from High Beams or 12v switched if you want to use a toggle switch, 86: Ground or toggle switch to ground , ok here is the important part... ... 87 will connect to 12v switched or 12v constant... 87a and 30 will be the 12ga twin wire you run to your lights (speaker wire) , 87a will connect to switch side of the wire you cut on the fog light, 30: will connect to the light side of the wire you cut on the fog light. Now you have the capability to run fogs with high beams and turn them on by switch if you like.
85=12v switched
86=Gnd or switch to gnd
87=12v switched or constant
87a=Cut fog light wire switch side
30=Cut fog light wire light side
Terminal 85: 12 from High Beams or 12v switched if you want to use a toggle switch, 86: Ground or toggle switch to ground , ok here is the important part... ... 87 will connect to 12v switched or 12v constant... 87a and 30 will be the 12ga twin wire you run to your lights (speaker wire) , 87a will connect to switch side of the wire you cut on the fog light, 30: will connect to the light side of the wire you cut on the fog light. Now you have the capability to run fogs with high beams and turn them on by switch if you like.
85=12v switched
86=Gnd or switch to gnd
87=12v switched or constant
87a=Cut fog light wire switch side
30=Cut fog light wire light side
#24
Just wire up a set of relays to take care of this problem. I do this to bypass the factory fog light cut-out when going to bright. You need two relays (one for each light), and some 12ga speaker wire with some 16ga primary. You need to find the positive wire (12v) going to the fog light and then cut it in half. Your wire diagram for the relay is as follows:
Terminal 85: 12 from High Beams or 12v switched if you want to use a toggle switch, 86: Ground or toggle switch to ground , ok here is the important part... ... 87 will connect to 12v switched or 12v constant... 87a and 30 will be the 12ga twin wire you run to your lights (speaker wire) , 87a will connect to switch side of the wire you cut on the fog light, 30: will connect to the light side of the wire you cut on the fog light. Now you have the capability to run fogs with high beams and turn them on by switch if you like.
85=12v switched
86=Gnd or switch to gnd
87=12v switched or constant
87a=Cut fog light wire switch side
30=Cut fog light wire light side
Terminal 85: 12 from High Beams or 12v switched if you want to use a toggle switch, 86: Ground or toggle switch to ground , ok here is the important part... ... 87 will connect to 12v switched or 12v constant... 87a and 30 will be the 12ga twin wire you run to your lights (speaker wire) , 87a will connect to switch side of the wire you cut on the fog light, 30: will connect to the light side of the wire you cut on the fog light. Now you have the capability to run fogs with high beams and turn them on by switch if you like.
85=12v switched
86=Gnd or switch to gnd
87=12v switched or constant
87a=Cut fog light wire switch side
30=Cut fog light wire light side
#26
I looked in the power control system (PCS) section at the IPDM schematic in the Maxima FSM and the internal fog lamp relay coil side would have to be tapped into the park lights relay coil side. I believe if u jump those 2 circuits with a diode from fog light relay coil ground side to park light relay coil ground side (respective diode installation position) this will prevent backfeeding of current into the park light circuit and allow the park lights to be activated with park lights only or with headlights also... If someone is familiar with the internals of the IPDM/ER maybe they'll chime in. This is just a rough SUGGESTION ONLY.
#28
The only other method than adding a separate switch is to actually switch the connections themselves.
What I have seen done on an S model, and easier to do since they are both H11 bulbs, is to extend the low beam bulbs/wiring to the fogs and move the fog bulbs/wiring to the low beam. In this way, you can turn on the fogs with the standard stalk switch and when you actually want to use the low beams you can turn them on with the fog switch.
Saying that, you have and SV Sport which comes with OEM HID which is a D2S bulb and the fogs are H11. It can still be done, but involves a few more parts and maybe a bit more complicated for what its worth.
Hope it helps.
What I have seen done on an S model, and easier to do since they are both H11 bulbs, is to extend the low beam bulbs/wiring to the fogs and move the fog bulbs/wiring to the low beam. In this way, you can turn on the fogs with the standard stalk switch and when you actually want to use the low beams you can turn them on with the fog switch.
Saying that, you have and SV Sport which comes with OEM HID which is a D2S bulb and the fogs are H11. It can still be done, but involves a few more parts and maybe a bit more complicated for what its worth.
Hope it helps.
#29
Just wire up a set of relays to take care of this problem. I do this to bypass the factory fog light cut-out when going to bright. You need two relays (one for each light), and some 12ga speaker wire with some 16ga primary. You need to find the positive wire (12v) going to the fog light and then cut it in half. Your wire diagram for the relay is as follows:
Terminal 85: 12 from High Beams or 12v switched if you want to use a toggle switch, 86: Ground or toggle switch to ground , ok here is the important part... ... 87 will connect to 12v switched or 12v constant... 87a and 30 will be the 12ga twin wire you run to your lights (speaker wire) , 87a will connect to switch side of the wire you cut on the fog light, 30: will connect to the light side of the wire you cut on the fog light. Now you have the capability to run fogs with high beams and turn them on by switch if you like.
85=12v switched
86=Gnd or switch to gnd
87=12v switched or constant
87a=Cut fog light wire switch side
30=Cut fog light wire light side
Terminal 85: 12 from High Beams or 12v switched if you want to use a toggle switch, 86: Ground or toggle switch to ground , ok here is the important part... ... 87 will connect to 12v switched or 12v constant... 87a and 30 will be the 12ga twin wire you run to your lights (speaker wire) , 87a will connect to switch side of the wire you cut on the fog light, 30: will connect to the light side of the wire you cut on the fog light. Now you have the capability to run fogs with high beams and turn them on by switch if you like.
85=12v switched
86=Gnd or switch to gnd
87=12v switched or constant
87a=Cut fog light wire switch side
30=Cut fog light wire light side
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