Just got a code for evaporation purge solenoid but can seem to find it on a diagram anyone know where to look? Also I recently changes plugs and pulled the intake could that have anything to do with the code? Thanks for any help

 

You ever get this figured out? I changed my plugs a few months ago and I must have nicked the PVC to intake hose. I got that fixed, but still have the P0447 code.

 

You might try changing your gas cap. Make sure its OEM.
This code is for a small leak in your evap system and usually takes a smoke test to find the leak.

 

I've seen info that it's for Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Open. I am thinking this is more of a valve/sensor issue? I am not 100% sure though.

 

You don't say what year, but I the key here is the plenum removal. It is easy to miss a hose connection or to miss a cracked line. Generally, it is the gas cap but if you have replaced it with an OEM as Richard66 mentioned, I would replace all the lines under the hood....only takes about an hour. I had a similar issue with one being a cap, and the other a line.

One quick note...I assume that you have no issues filling the car at the pump (e.g. pump shutting off multiple times before you can fill your tank...as that is a subject of a recent recall)

Lt

 

2009 with 165k miles.

Thanks guys, I'll dig around a little bit more. I don't have the issues filling the gas as the recall mentioned. It all started around that one hose...I easily could have missed a connection or tore another hose like you mentioned.

 

Nothing to do with the hood.The Vent Control Valve is attached to the Evap Canister under the car at the back.
The thread title carries a wrong reference. P0443, P0444, and P0445 refer to the solenoid valve under the hood. P0447 is for the vent control valve.

 

excellent, thanks for the clarification. I thought it might be that after doing some research, but am completely new to looking at the evap system. Do you have any recommendations on messing with it/testing or just replacing? Thanks!

 

Download the FSM for the procedure for a component test/check.

 

In my research, I came across a great explanation of the system and how it works. I had no idea how it works.

 

I managed to take off the valve and bench tested it with a 12V battery. The valve did not trip, so I ordered a new one. It was pretty straightforward to remove except I needed to enlist my wife with smaller hands to reach the part. I could have gotten it out if I removed the rear stabilizer bar. New part is on the way...will report if any issues. thanks for the help folks!