markybarky

Hi all,

I've inquired before about this issue on different forums but I have not gotten any resolution. Please forgive me if how I describe the problem is random as I am not very good at formulating my thoughts on "paper".

I have a 2010 Nissan Maxima SV. I bought it at 15k Miles. I have had this problem since day one. Very randomly and without any warning I will have loss of performance. By this I mean the acceleration will be great from the get go and/or while moving to horrible acceleration/performance that feels much like a 4 cylinder. The odd part is that I can turn the cruise control on and set to any given speed, whether on the highway or in the city, and roughly 10 minutes later I can turn it off and the problem will have vanished after it had been occurring prior to cruise control. Sometimes the problem returns a little while after and sometimes not.

Here are a few things about my driving habits:

-I've only used Premium gasoline in my car since day one
-I am pretty heavy on the acceleration from a stop the majority of the time but I am never rough on the car
-I get oil changes at regular intervals (4k to 6k mile intervals)

And here is what I have tried thus far:

-Got the Service Bulletin Transmission Update for my make and year from the dealership where I bought it after 1 week of owning it
-Had the throttle position sensor replaced with brand new
-Had the computer checked for any pending codes but there were none
-Cleaned the MAF sensor
-New Battery (needed one anyway)
-I manually performed an ECU reset directly followed by a Throttle Position Sensor Learn, Throttle Valve Closed Position Learn, and Idle Volume Air Learn, respectively (This was done a couple of times) I used the instructions given online but I can't seem to locate them to post a link. I recall that they may have been on this site though
-Taken a look into the Throttle Body and it looked pretty clean
-Replaced the air filter

These are listed in the order in which they were performed.

After doing the ECU reset, I noticed that the problem happens A LOT less frequently but it still happens. I understand that it could be a lot of different things and that I obviously haven't exhausted many options.

Like I mentioned before, the weird part is that this problem seems to go away with about 10 minutes or more of using the cruise control and then turning it off. I'm getting ready to just replace the MAF sensor as my research seems to point at that quite a bit. Other people say it could be a faulty knock sensor, bad O2 sensor or even spark plugs. But if it were any of those, then why would using cruise control "fix" this problem temporarily? If any of those were faulty, shouldn't they stay faulty?

As far as I know I still don't have any pending codes and I do not have a CEL on. I now have 90k miles on it and I am really fed up with the problem. Any suggestions are welcome. I apologize if this issue has already been addressed elsewhere. I have scoured the internet for a VERY long time to try and find an answer, but to no avail.

Thank you for your help as I am at my wits end.

Mark

Maxxx10

I have maxima 2010 and I have the same problem.. I read something about update for the ECU. I also read that problem is only from maxima 2009 until 2011 model.. And I do not know what I can do to fix this problem, it's annoying me

Dudemaine

iTrader: (1)

Astute observations and I agree with your diagnoses. Shot in the dark here but I would recommend to add some marvel mystery oil with your oil as it increases lubricity within engine components while cleaning them as well and helps reduce friction and engine ware. It sounds like there may be buildup/blockage somewhere along the way.

I'll tell you this, I add MMO with every oil change on my '12 SV currently at 24k miles and she purrs like a kitten. You'd have no idea she's even at 24k miles right now by the way she sounds - quiet as a church mouse, just the way I like it. I'll shoot a quick vid if you'd like, doesn't matter to me; just a suggestion.

Quick video of a mechanically sound (redneck) guy who couldn't figure out an issue within his engine components for the life of him on his truck; he was performing the right maintenance for the diagnosis but the problem kept coming back until he gave it a shot.


Just one of many videos documenting the stuff.

Good luck w/ whatever you choose and hope you guys get it figured out. Let us know how you make out!

markybarky

Forgive me for the late reply. I am a third shift worker and wasn't exactly awake today lol.

Dudemaine - Thank you for the suggestion. I will look further into this oil. It sounds very intriguing. Thank you also for the video post.

Maxxx10 - I hope you don't mind me saying this but I feel much more at ease knowing that I am not the only one experiencing this problem. I was beginning to think I was just going crazy. Are you able to recall where you read about an update for the ECU? Also, I'm assuming by you saying you have the same problem that you are also referring to being able to temporarily "fix" the problem with cruise control, as I am? If I come across any further information, or even a fix, I will let you know.

Thank you both once again for your swift responses.

CorollaULEV

markybarky: Has the throttle body every been pulled off of the vehicle for any reason?

markybarky

The only time anything has ever been done with the throttle body is when the connecting hose was pulled off to see if the throttle body was dirty but the problem was occurring before then.

zoemayne

iTrader: (4)

Its definitely a sensor. I think it's a throttle position sensor. I'm not sure if this is the same part but my late 01 maxima had a "transmission speed sensor" which is located in the wheel well of the driver side front tire. That sensor was bad and once the car warmed up it would not shift and limit the car to ~30mph. Maybe when you had this sensor replaced they didnt add a new one or made a mistake and put the same one back in? Or maybe the contacts where the sensor plugs in is dirty?
Here is a video when I had the problem:

markybarky

I've finally found the culprit after 3 long and annoying years!

I borrowed a voltage meter on a hunch that cleaning my MAF sensor was not good enough. Sure enough, when I check the readings from the MAF sensor it was jumping all over the place. I unplugged it and started my car up. It ran amazing and idled perfectly. Once I had it plugged back in and had cleared those codes that came up, it acted up again. I did this process several times to verify. So basically the only thing bad on the sensor is the intake air temperature sensor which apparently was not enough to trip any codes. I know this from talking to a good friend of mine who has been helping me figure this out. He is extremely brilliant when it comes to vehicle mechanics. It makes perfect sense to us. I've ordered a replacement sensor but if I'm wrong then I will update you. Otherwise I'll leave it be. Anyway, I'm just happy to have finally gotten it figured out and I hope this is what resolves your issue as well. Thanks for everyone's input. It is greatly appreciated. God bless

mattz300

How did it work? What part do I need to order? A new MAF sensor?

Thanks!

markybarky

Hey mattz300 and others. I apologize for the lack of communication as I have been very busy with work and life.

So, I bought 2 new MAF sensors online to greatly rule out any chance of a faulty unit. I did not buy the expensive brands, though. I just bought 2 generics. While the new MAF sensor did seem to help a little it did not fix the issue. Since this post I have been researching nonstop. I am being led further into believing that this is a throttle body issue. I have an explanation for this theory on another forum. I will past the post here (hopefully I don't get in trouble from this site because I hope they understand due to the length of the other post). This paste obviously contains updated information and tests.

"I have a 2010 Nissan Maxima SV, 102,000 miles. I have been experiencing a particular problem with this car since I bought it when it only had 15k miles on it. Whenever the car heats up (especially if it's a hot day) I will experience random lag in performance. By "lag" I am referring to great acceleration from any speed or stop and to feeling like I just downgraded to a 4 cylinder. I'm not exaggerating either. Not only that, my estimated range on my car drops very quickly when the problem is occurring but does not when the problem is not occurring. I have gone through so much gas because my gas mileage is horrible because the problem is there more often than not.

Anyway, I bought the car 3 1/2 years ago and the problem has never gone away. This is what I have done/tried so far:

Completely removed and cleaned Throttle Body with CRC TB cleaner - x3
Cleaned MAF Sensor with CRC MAF Cleaner - x5
Replaced MAF Sensor (generic brand) - x2 (Two brand new sensors to rule out any chance of faulty units)
Professional Smoke test to check for vacuum leaks - x1
Manual ECM Reset - too many times to count
Accelerator Position Relearn - too many times to count
Valve Closed Relearn - ""
Idle Air Volume Relearn - ""
SeaFoam Gas Treatment - x3 Cans
All in one fuel treatment - x2 Bottles
Gas Tank Moisture Remover - x1 Bottle
New Battery - x1
Tested Alternator - several times
Tested MAF Voltage - several times
OBDII Scan for codes w/ torque pro and OBD fusion - don't even get me going on how many times
Graphed/Monitored/Recorded several 45 minute sessions of driving with both apps with multiple PID's
New Air Filter - x3
Changed Transmission Fluid with ONLY Nissan Genuine NS2 - x1 (less than 1k miles ago)
Changed oil with Valvoline Full Synthetic (regular 6k mile intervals)
TSB Transmission Update
Other Stuff I am probably forgetting...

Well, today I was driving south to my house about 3.5 hours away. The problem was occurring and I accidentally "snapped my throttle" several times because I was shifting in my seat. My foot bounced on the gas pedal a few times and voila! The problem was gone! It came back a few minutes later and I put 2 and 2 together and tried snapping the throttle again. The problem went away again. I did this several times during the trip with 100% success.

So, my theory is that the throttle plate (or butterfly valve?) in my throttle body is sticking, especially when the engine is hot and especially on hot days (it was 80 degrees out today). I think it has to be due to either heat expansion or carbon buildup that I just don't see or can't get to. But when I forcefully bounce the gas pedal, it seems to be freeing up the throttle plate for a while. What do you guys think? I am purchasing a brand new OEM Throttle Body this weekend but I don't want to spend it if I don't have to.

Sorry for the lengthy post but I am very OCD about this.

Thank you, in advance, for your help."

Well, since then you can see that I have completely removed the throttle body and cleaned the bore and throttle plate (there was quite a bit of carbon buildup, I'm assuming especially from it sitting for over a year before I bought it). This helped a tremendous amount. The problem still arises but it is less frequent and less potent, but it is still there and still very noticeable and frustrating. Well, I have been talking to some very helpful and knowledgeable people in the past week and we have a very significant hunch that the Electronic Throttle Control Acuator is to blame for most/all of the problem. But because the problem is intermittent, we are thinking that the ECM is just accepting the variables and not throwing a code. So, last night I went online and purchased a new OEM throttle body and new OEM accelerator pedal (just in case the one that my original one was replaced with is faulty -- I know, I'm desperate at this point) Total amount for purchases: about $180 with shipping. I am supposed to received the TB tomorrow and the accelerator pedal next Thursday. I am going to give the ECM a day or two to learn the new TB and the Accelerator Pedal if the TB is not the fix but I am also going to reset the ECM by pulling the battery cables during installs just to be safe. After I have tried it, whether that or the acclerator pedal replacement fixes this or not, I will keep you updated. If the replacement(s) do fix the problem, I can provide you with links to them online to purchase them. I don't know what the rules are on here for external linking even for purchases and I don't want to claim ignorance and risk getting into trouble so I guess I could PM you them if you so desire.

One thing I would like to note is the part of my quoted post in this one that talks about tapping on the gas pedal several times in a somewhat aggressive manner to temporarily fix the problem. If you could, try doing that and let me know if it temporarily fixes it for you too. Either way, we can work together on this. I feel bad for anyone having to deal with such an issue especially because no codes are ever thrown so it is obviously a guessing game.

Anyway, like I said, I will keep you posted.

Thank You

hacura3000

So what fixed your problem beacuse im dealing with a similar issue?

markybarky

Hi hacura3000,

The issue isn't fixed yet. I should be receiving the new throttle body tomorrow and the accelerator pedal by next Thursday so I will keep everyone posted as I replace parts and try them out.

markybarky

So I installed the new Throttle Body today and wouldn't you know it, the problem still exists. The only difference is that when the issue is present the car performs a little better, but not by much. I tried resetting the ECM twice. I did the throttle position relearn, the idle position relearn, respectively. However, I was not able to do the idle air volume relearn. I couldn't get the CEL to flash. However, I could still temporarily remedy the issue by bouncing my foot heavily a few times on the accelerator pedal. I still have the new pedal assembly coming and it said it should be here Monday (not Thursday like originally estimated).

So I will keep you guys updated after the pedal install and let you know. I have exhausted pretty much all theories but my last and (hopefully) final theory is that the potentiometer inside the TPS on the accelerator pedal assembly is not making full contact all of the time like it should or their is moisture or something making the contact bad. So when I bounce my foot on the pedal, it is improving the contact momentarily.

Anyways, I hope you all have a great night and I should know by Monday evening if I'll be planning to throw my car into neutral and rolling it off a cliff ;-)

dcpatters

Have you checked the catalytic converter? Maybe it's clogged? What about fuel pressure? Do you have Torque app installed and am ODBII dongle to log the ECU when the problem persists?

markybarky

I tried logging fuel pressure but the PID for fuel pressure is not readable with my car. It's grayed out and it says when it's like that it means the ECM does not allow it to be read through this particular app or even OBD Fusion.

I thought maybe a problem with the catalytic converter could be possible but I started to think maybe not since this has been happening since I bought the car with only 15,000 miles on it and the issue has improved significantly with cleaning the TB and what not but is still there. Like I mentioned before, I am able to temporarily resolve the issue by bouncing my foot on the pedal aggressively several times but then it comes back, sometimes after only a minute or so. I will say one thing though, I can smell a mild ammonia smell when I smell underneath my car while it's running. I read somewhere that this meant my catalytic converter "is working too well". Have you ever heard of this?

Thank you for the reply and the tips.

dcpatters

Have you tried installing the Advanced EX for Nissan App (Plugin) for Torque Pro? I can check tomorrow and see if the Fuel Pressure PID is there.

The odor from the catalytic converter could be a few things, possibly too hot and the ECU is dumping fuel to cool in down. In GM cars, it's referred to as "COT" Cat Over Temp.

Be careful not to torque down the throttle body too much, can cause binding on the throttle blade.

What about ignition timing? During the power loss, does the timing take a big dip, such as retarded the timing?

Not sure if it's been mentioned, but typically where does the power loss start? From a full throttle roll, e.g. already up to speed or from a dead stop to WOT?

MaxMus

I really hope you get down to the bottom of this issue. Sucks to have such a nagging issue like this on a nice car.

markybarky

I want to firstly apologize to everyone for my lack of communication again.

Secondly, I would like to inform everyone that after a successful replacement of the throttle body, MAF sensor AND accelerator pedal assembly, the problem seems to be completely demolished. Please note that I used all BRAND NEW OEM PARTS. I originally replaced the MAF sensor with a cheapo online but realized that it was such poor quality when I ordered a new OEM sensor and she drove smoothly and perfectly. I verified this because I ordered duplicates of the cheapo one and tried them both with the same crappy results.

I am happy to say that she is a lot of fun to drive now, just like I have seen advertised.

Thank you all for kind support, patience, and assistance.

God bless

MaxMus

Thanks for the update. I'm glad everything is working normally on your Max. I wonder which thing you did fixed it. The TB. The MAF or the accelerator pedal.

markybarky

In all honesty, I would have to say that all three contributed to the complete fix. I do feel that the original TB and the MAF sensor were more of the culprits, though.

Thanks again!