Car scratched in DC Parking Garage on pillar
Car scratched in DC Parking Garage on pillar
After a short day of work on Friday for Memorial weekend, I walk a few blocks to crammed small parking garage. I get one of the parking garage attendants to move some of the vehicles blocking the direct path out the exit for garage floor level, I pull out of the parking space slowly while turning left, as there still wasn't much room to maneuver out the parking spot. I managed to scratch my car on a pillar on the left 
I got a shop estimate for $931. that seems high, any thoughts?
2011 Sv Premium

I got a shop estimate for $931. that seems high, any thoughts?
2011 Sv Premium
While that seems high, if they're going to do it right - it's probably about right.
I had a scratch on lower driver's door, right next to rear door. That means blending on both doors, disassembling doors, and clear coat over both doors. Mine was almost exactly the same amount.
I had a scratch on lower driver's door, right next to rear door. That means blending on both doors, disassembling doors, and clear coat over both doors. Mine was almost exactly the same amount.
There are some good products to try and see how much actual damage there is. Get some proper buffing pads and compound from a good parts store. Gently rub around the area with meguiars rubbing compound to loosen the bonded paint from your contact. Follow up with meguiars deep crystal polish.
There are some good products to try and see how much actual damage there is. Get some proper buffing pads and compound from a good parts store. Gently rub around the area with meguiars rubbing compound to loosen the bonded paint from your contact. Follow up with meguiars deep crystal polish.
Rubbing compound is used to remove oxidation BTW and a polish is used to remove light to very low to medium scratches from the paint, neither of the methods you mentioned will blend paint. So this method will not work in his case. It needs to be repainted. He might be able to find a mobile body person that might be able to offer a better price than a stationary shop.
While that seems high, if they're going to do it right - it's probably about right.
I had a scratch on lower driver's door, right next to rear door. That means blending on both doors, disassembling doors, and clear coat over both doors. Mine was almost exactly the same amount.
I had a scratch on lower driver's door, right next to rear door. That means blending on both doors, disassembling doors, and clear coat over both doors. Mine was almost exactly the same amount.
Okay,...guess i'm gonna have hold off a bit on getting this done
Negative, he went well past the clear coat and it looks like it went down to the primer. So NO amount of buffing will fix that damage outside of a repaint. I am very sure (can't tell by the pictures) his panel(s) are no longer straight either.
Rubbing compound is used to remove oxidation BTW and a polish is used to remove light to very low to medium scratches from the paint, neither of the methods you mentioned will blend paint. So this method will not work in his case. It needs to be repainted. He might be able to find a mobile body person that might be able to offer a better price than a stationary shop.
Rubbing compound is used to remove oxidation BTW and a polish is used to remove light to very low to medium scratches from the paint, neither of the methods you mentioned will blend paint. So this method will not work in his case. It needs to be repainted. He might be able to find a mobile body person that might be able to offer a better price than a stationary shop.
Here is another example:
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...ars-paint.html
Last edited by Bificus99; Jun 1, 2016 at 07:38 AM.
Negative, he went well past the clear coat and it looks like it went down to the primer. So NO amount of buffing will fix that damage outside of a repaint. I am very sure (can't tell by the pictures) his panel(s) are no longer straight either.
Rubbing compound is used to remove oxidation BTW and a polish is used to remove light to very low to medium scratches from the paint, neither of the methods you mentioned will blend paint. So this method will not work in his case. It needs to be repainted. He might be able to find a mobile body person that might be able to offer a better price than a stationary shop.
Rubbing compound is used to remove oxidation BTW and a polish is used to remove light to very low to medium scratches from the paint, neither of the methods you mentioned will blend paint. So this method will not work in his case. It needs to be repainted. He might be able to find a mobile body person that might be able to offer a better price than a stationary shop.
I agree with SR20, use a finger nail and if your fingernail catches on an edge of the scratch then it's too deep for simple polish repair.
Some videos for education:
Best Paint Touch-up Tricks: Mercedes G55 - YouTube
How to Touch up your Paint - YouTube
Some videos for education:
Best Paint Touch-up Tricks: Mercedes G55 - YouTube
How to Touch up your Paint - YouTube
Tremaine good luck on the paint, just trying to help.
Last edited by Bificus99; Jun 1, 2016 at 08:41 PM.
I honestly think it would be worth looking into one of those craigslist mobile guys... I mean it will and can be WAY cheaper.. that's if you trust it I myself never used one. I would be worried about the blending part of the panels.
Do keep us posted...
Do keep us posted...
I don't think i'll be using craigslist either, I would prefer a professional shop with warranty....
I know this is probably the guy everyone thinks is wrong:
but with the amount of dings and stone chips etc that you will accumulate on the car, I would grab some blue clay, buff the **** out of the entire car, then take a picture of the car from the same distance and compare the photo's.
I get it wont be perfect but it also wont be as aggravated when you get side swiped in the same spot in a parking lot.
I'm just saying some things are big some are small. Worry about the car running, brakes, oil, etc.
That's just how I roll I used to baby my cars appearance and it eventually got to me, now I focus on the gears and components more. You can always buff a car when ready to sell, etc.
My 2 Cents (CAD)
Also as I wrote that I also realized we salt like fking crazy here so that's another reason why Im reluctant to care about the body. Again unless its a big dent, crack, etc that might start rust earlier etc.
but with the amount of dings and stone chips etc that you will accumulate on the car, I would grab some blue clay, buff the **** out of the entire car, then take a picture of the car from the same distance and compare the photo's.
I get it wont be perfect but it also wont be as aggravated when you get side swiped in the same spot in a parking lot.
I'm just saying some things are big some are small. Worry about the car running, brakes, oil, etc.
That's just how I roll I used to baby my cars appearance and it eventually got to me, now I focus on the gears and components more. You can always buff a car when ready to sell, etc.
My 2 Cents (CAD)
Also as I wrote that I also realized we salt like fking crazy here so that's another reason why Im reluctant to care about the body. Again unless its a big dent, crack, etc that might start rust earlier etc.
I know this is probably the guy everyone thinks is wrong:
but with the amount of dings and stone chips etc that you will accumulate on the car, I would grab some blue clay, buff the **** out of the entire car, then take a picture of the car from the same distance and compare the photo's.
I get it wont be perfect but it also wont be as aggravated when you get side swiped in the same spot in a parking lot.
I'm just saying some things are big some are small. Worry about the car running, brakes, oil, etc.
That's just how I roll I used to baby my cars appearance and it eventually got to me, now I focus on the gears and components more. You can always buff a car when ready to sell, etc.
My 2 Cents (CAD)
Also as I wrote that I also realized we salt like fking crazy here so that's another reason why Im reluctant to care about the body. Again unless its a big dent, crack, etc that might start rust earlier etc.
but with the amount of dings and stone chips etc that you will accumulate on the car, I would grab some blue clay, buff the **** out of the entire car, then take a picture of the car from the same distance and compare the photo's.
I get it wont be perfect but it also wont be as aggravated when you get side swiped in the same spot in a parking lot.
I'm just saying some things are big some are small. Worry about the car running, brakes, oil, etc.
That's just how I roll I used to baby my cars appearance and it eventually got to me, now I focus on the gears and components more. You can always buff a car when ready to sell, etc.
My 2 Cents (CAD)
Also as I wrote that I also realized we salt like fking crazy here so that's another reason why Im reluctant to care about the body. Again unless its a big dent, crack, etc that might start rust earlier etc.
I think just the opposite on a couple of fronts here. One, a lot of people here really care what their cars appearance is and dings and scratches, however small, are always in the back of your mind, and getting them repaired is important to them. Second, since as you say they really salt in the winter months then keeping the car clean is super important to delay the onset of corrosion. Even in the spring and summer months after a rain there is salt residue on the highways that gets on the car.
Also keeping a car clean during the winter has little to do with car rust. It was to do with where you keep the car. Warmth makes the rusting process quicker than freezing temperatures. Also the salt when washed away in some parts actually is running down to the crevasses where it sits (ie inside of door) and.... then causes rust. The part where you mix it with water is what will let rust react. That's why warmth (which has humidity) will speed up the rust process. And salt on your side walk does jack below -15. If you notice the big city salt trucks pre-coat the salt with a solution before salting the roads.
Again all I was saying is if you clay bar and buff it out -- I think you will be happy enough with the results not to spend 1000 bucks on a fix and then have some dude not paying attention dents your newly painted side door. You will be double pissed.
There is a valid point to be honored in Richards post and thats if you dont seal them properly rust can start at that spot because of the tears to metal.
Again I care about my car, and clean it religiously but there's nothing happy about buffing your car at the beginning of the season and finding 10 new grocery oops's
Mikekay, I agree with you 100%. Like everyone here I babied my cars like crazy. Living in California for 18 months definitely gave me a new perspective on its appearance. The combination of the 107+ degree temperatures, no shade to park in, coupled with the hard water and constant sandstorms really did a number on my paint, interior, glass and tires.
While I still washed my car weekly there I couldn't do much for my interior or glass. Once I left I had my headlights professionally buffed and replaced my windshield. A claybar, waxing and better water helped bring my paint back, but yes you are on the right track when you say the focus should be on the mechanicals.
What good is it to have the sharpest looking car but it needs a brake job or wheel bearing repair? I hate rust, so every 3 or 4 months I put my cars on a lift and wire brush and treat any surface rust I find.
I also wash my cars in the winter time no matter what the temperature is making sure I get the wheel wells clean too.
While I still washed my car weekly there I couldn't do much for my interior or glass. Once I left I had my headlights professionally buffed and replaced my windshield. A claybar, waxing and better water helped bring my paint back, but yes you are on the right track when you say the focus should be on the mechanicals.
What good is it to have the sharpest looking car but it needs a brake job or wheel bearing repair? I hate rust, so every 3 or 4 months I put my cars on a lift and wire brush and treat any surface rust I find.
I also wash my cars in the winter time no matter what the temperature is making sure I get the wheel wells clean too.
Mikekay, I agree with you 100%. Like everyone here I babied my cars like crazy. Living in California for 18 months definitely gave me a new perspective on its appearance. The combination of the 107+ degree temperatures, no shade to park in, coupled with the hard water and constant sandstorms really did a number on my paint, interior, glass and tires.
While I still washed my car weekly there I couldn't do much for my interior or glass. Once I left I had my headlights professionally buffed and replaced my windshield. A claybar, waxing and better water helped bring my paint back, but yes you are on the right track when you say the focus should be on the mechanicals.
What good is it to have the sharpest looking car but it needs a brake job or wheel bearing repair? I hate rust, so every 3 or 4 months I put my cars on a lift and wire brush and treat any surface rust I find.
I also wash my cars in the winter time no matter what the temperature is making sure I get the wheel wells clean too.
While I still washed my car weekly there I couldn't do much for my interior or glass. Once I left I had my headlights professionally buffed and replaced my windshield. A claybar, waxing and better water helped bring my paint back, but yes you are on the right track when you say the focus should be on the mechanicals.
What good is it to have the sharpest looking car but it needs a brake job or wheel bearing repair? I hate rust, so every 3 or 4 months I put my cars on a lift and wire brush and treat any surface rust I find.
I also wash my cars in the winter time no matter what the temperature is making sure I get the wheel wells clean too.
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