donlevysean

I have a 2009 Nissan Maxima 3.5 SV with about 160K miles that loses engine power while driving.

I am able to start and drive it, but after about 20-30 minutes of driving the car will lose engine power. The car will not accelerate and you are forced to pull over.

The engine will still run while in Drive, but when you press on the throttle, it will not accelerate nor will it rev. You can shift into Neutral and the engine will rev, but it will not rev or accelerate if you put it into Drive or Reverse.

Sometimes after losing power, you can put the car in Park and let it sit for a few minutes with the ignition off and it will start and drive as if there is no problem.

Other times after letting it sit, it will not start. The starter only clicks and it seems like the battery is dead. The battery is not actually dead, because if you then allow the car to sit for several hours, it will again start as if there is no problem without the need for a boost.

I have replaced the alternator, battery, and the IPDM (intelligent power distribution module) but no luck with any of those replacements. Three different mechanics have checked this car, including a local Nissan dealer.

Has anyone heard or experienced any of these problems on a 7th gen Maxima?

Richard66

Don't know about the electrical part but the driving part sound like the engine is going into limp mode to protect the CVT. This happens when the CVT gets to hot. When you shut down for awhile the CVT cools down and you can drive again. When was the last time the CVT was serviced with an oil change?

donlevysean

I have always done my own oil and filter changes. I have never serviced the CVT since it has been in my possession which was 100k miles ago. I did not mention this part in the previous post. Say you haven't drove the car in a day or two days, you can start it up put it in Drive and its fine. You can turn the wiper blades on full speed and they will be working normal as they should be. After about 15 minutes of the car being on you can turn the wiper blades on full speed again and you can tell they are very weak and perform as if you had them on low speed. When the wiper blades start to get really slow on full speed you know the car is about to lose power. Thanks for your reply Richard.

Richard66

As for the CVT you are seriously waaaaay past due for service, especially if you do not know what the previous owner has done. As to the electrical part do the lights get dim or any other electrical/electronic component act funny when the wipers start slowing down. If they do I would suspect your alternator is not putting out enough or the voltage regulator is going bad, or it could be a number or things. Anyway I would have your electrical system examined by someone who is in that sort of business.

LtLeary

Revs fine in Neutral, no power in gear. Really sounds like alternator (or internal regulator) maybe belt not on correctly or freewheeling, Bad ground on Chassis/Motor. Your intermittent symptoms were just like mine when the alternator failed.

If you just replaced the alternator and still having these issues, it almost has to be the ground or something really taking the voltage too low. A voltmeter would help here but really of benefit when the event is occurring.

If you replaced it a while ago, it may be infant mortality and needs replacing again. Most of the local auto stores will perform on-vehicle alternator tests so you may want to start there.

Agree with Richard66 on the CVT service. Best be about getting that done while you are under the car.

donlevysean

Thanks for the following information guys. I put a voltage meter on the battery today before trying to start the car. The car had been sitting for approximately 20 hours with the ignition off. The voltage read 12.32 volts. I started the car while the car was running it was putting out 14.36 volts. I never turned the car off or took the voltage meter off. I turned on the headlights, wiper blades (full speed), radio, and AC. I began to drive it around a cove in the neighborhood doing circles until the car lost engine power. After doing 20 circles in the cove the engine lost power and would not accelerate. I shifted the car into Park and quick tested the voltage. It was now only putting out 11.27 volts. The car is still idling while in Park, I never turned anything off meaning headlights, wipers, ect. I never took the voltage meter off the battery while the car was idling the voltage was steadily dropping. It dropped to 7.91 volts at that time the wiper blades were barely moving and all lights were going dim the car completely went dead. The battery light and the brake light came on right before going dead. I turned the ignition to the off and the voltage started going back up it got up to 11.59 volts after the car had died and the ignition was turned to the off position. With those test it seems to be that the alternator is not charging correctly even though it was just replaced. The alternator that was just replaced was bought from a local oriellys parts store. Could it be that the alternator that was just replaced be faulty? My thought is to take out the oriellys alternator and replace with a OEM alternator from the dealer.

LtLeary

Well, it really does appear that the alternator is getting too hot (or rather the regulator part is). Make sure the alternator is for a Maxima. The placement is in a very hot engine compartment that other suppliers make not take into consideration. Oreilleys usually takes care of their customers so you may have just drawn a bad one.

RickyY2K

Jerome Smith

I'm having the same issues. Did you find any solution??
Thank you

Darrell Leftwich

My daughters 2010 maxima is doing the very same thing. Battery has been replaced, alternator replaced, been in the dealers service shop three times costing $$$ and still no resolution . The door locks and passenger side window will arbitrarily engage at times as well without hitting controls. Has anyone found resolution for this..
thanks

LtLeary

Any voltage readings before, during after?

Angie Foster

Did you get this fixed if so what was the issue?

Angie Foster

My car is doing the exact same thing and my mechanic can't seem to figure it out because it never does it when I bring it to them of course.

Doug Bell

I have this same issue, I can resolve it for while by unplugging the Mass Air Flow sensor and reconnecting it. Seems to be random when it reoccurs after the reset. I haven’t tried replacing the sensor yet as the part is a little pricey.

Corey Joy

This started to happen to me today driving home from work all my lights showed up the car lost power but never turned off then it all came back it’s happened about 4 times on the ride to a local mechanic who put a scanner on it and said there’s no codes except for a generic transmission code but that has nothing to do with why my cars losing power

Lexie

So I have a 2011 Nissan Maxima that sense I bought at 127,000 Miles, have taken very great care of...When I bought the car I had check engine lights on an some more...I was getting code P0101...Changed Mass Air Flow Sensor, seemed to work...Year later, engine starts running an sounding like crud...Mind you been taking to shops for concerns an regular maintenance often an no ones been able to “agree” with my worry about engine...I then had all the spark plugs changed an full deal....Only issue I’ve had is when first bought the car I had a transmission flush an these “super smart guys” (despite all the warnings under hood!...) added the wrong fluid into car!...I then about week in after discovery the matter had towed to trans Shop flushed an whole deal...Come to last weeks date, I’m at a stop light an when I went to go on green, engine went into Limp mode...(Or I believe so...)No engine response, no rev of engine in Responses to gas pedal floored...An then after about 35 seconds it slowly started working again...Then about another 2.5 miles down road...Same situation...
I felt it may be for fact I was 70M to E...(As I usually don’t run my tanks that low...Not saying I haven’t before though...)An it seemed to help...Till about hour into drive I begin to go at green light an HUGE tranny Clunk!...An then all worked again... I’ve added some trans fix fluid(Yes it’s labeled for CVT Transmission) mixed with CVT trans fluid an only did about half bottle as didn’t want to over fill trans...Seemed to help a bit...An then day after it seemed to be acting weird while driving...Low response times...Heavy/unsteady ideal...Lagging big time!...even in Sport mode!...
I also ran A live feed on my code scanner while driving after the first days incident an before I got home that same day...However, weird part...All specs in live feed seemed normal...an
tests of sensors all seemed to pass...However, I do know I have had an issue with a intake air Leak...I’ve just never been able to fully secure the believed leaking area...What possibly makes my matter little different, is some young driver side swiped my driver side knocking out my headlight/Some wiring/both Fenders moved a notch/ An bumper...I’ve been fighting w it h insurance for well over 7 months an just now finally able to the parts ordered an be able to start the rebuilding process...In the midst I’ve had the car kinda Pulled back together looking sad... I have noticed while lights on at night the driver light that’s been out will flicker on an off at times of a bump in road or any other events as such...However, engines has only went into limp mode with lights off, in day time, no wipers on...Only main power possibly would be my system...However, that’s hooked up straight through fuse box an grounded to Battery...I have experienced maybe twice my car not being able to start due to
needing A jump to battery...Only has happened think twice ever...
I am currently in the process of trying to figure out the issue...As No codes, no faults on Live scan/feed...I’m kinda just going off of the previous code Of P0101 an all the possibilities that code results in...
if anyone has solved their issue or has any ideas please feel free to bounce or advice on any matter...As I’ve already Put well over the cars value into the car in the past year with also putting another $2000 in custom parts for front end rebuild from accident...

Lexie

So I have a 2011 Nissan Maxima that sense I bought at 127,000 Miles, have taken very great care of...When I bought the car I had check engine lights on an some more...I was getting code P0101...Changed Mass Air Flow Sensor, seemed to work...Year later, engine starts running an sounding like crud...Mind you been taking to shops for concerns an regular maintenance often an no ones been able to “agree” with my worry about engine...I then had all the spark plugs changed an full deal....Only issue I’ve had is when first bought the car I had a transmission flush an these “super smart guys” (despite all the warnings under hood!...) added the wrong fluid into car!...I then about week in after discovery the matter had towed to trans Shop flushed an whole deal...Come to last weeks date, I’m at a stop light an when I went to go on green, engine went into Limp mode...(Or I believe so...)No engine response, no rev of engine in Responses to gas pedal floored...An then after about 35 seconds it slowly started working again...Then about another 2.5 miles down road...Same situation...
I felt it may be for fact I was 70M to E...(As I usually don’t run my tanks that low...Not saying I haven’t before though...)An it seemed to help...Till about hour into drive I begin to go at green light an HUGE tranny Clunk!...An then all worked again... I’ve added some trans fix fluid(Yes it’s labeled for CVT Transmission) mixed with CVT trans fluid an only did about half bottle as didn’t want to over fill trans...Seemed to help a bit...An then day after it seemed to be acting weird while driving...Low response times...Heavy/unsteady ideal...Lagging big time!...even in Sport mode!...
I also ran A live feed on my code scanner while driving after the first days incident an before I got home that same day...However, weird part...All specs in live feed seemed normal...an
tests of sensors all seemed to pass...However, I do know I have had an issue with a intake air Leak...I’ve just never been able to fully secure the believed leaking area...What possibly makes my matter little different, is some young driver side swiped my driver side knocking out my headlight/Some wiring/both Fenders moved a notch/ An bumper...I’ve been fighting w it h insurance for well over 7 months an just now finally able to the parts ordered an be able to start the rebuilding process...In the midst I’ve had the car kinda Pulled back together looking sad... I have noticed while lights on at night the driver light that’s been out will flicker on an off at times of a bump in road or any other events as such...However, engines has only went into limp mode with lights off, in day time, no wipers on...Only main power possibly would be my system...However, that’s hooked up straight through fuse box an grounded to Battery...I have experienced maybe twice my car not being able to start due to
needing A jump to battery...Only has happened think twice ever...
I am currently in the process of trying to figure out the issue...As No codes, no faults on Live scan/feed...I’m kinda just going off of the previous code Of P0101 an all the possibilities that code results in...
if anyone has solved their issue or has any ideas please feel free to bounce or advice on any matter...As I’ve already Put well over the cars value into the car in the past year with also putting another $2000 in custom parts for front end rebuild from accident

Xskysplitter777

My 2016 maxima is going through the same thing. It has about 78k miles and it started doing it around 70k miles. I took it to 2 different nissan dealers and they can't figure out what is wrong with it.



Did you ever find what was wrong with the car? And where you able to fix it?

TDGrant

Maybe there is something here -

TDGrant

Part 2 -

Jessh00

Anyone find solution

after driving car 30 minutes or so come to a stop and may very slowly accelerate if up hill it won’t accelerate rpm doesn’t rise at all, I can turn it off let it cool off for a while turn it back on and like nothing is wrong until I come to the next complete stop. I have changed multiple sensors, cvt drain and issue continues

Phistsophury

I have the same issues with my cvt and I believe if you haven't serviced you cvt fluid and filters yes there are two that need to be replaced. One is internal the other is external. It seems like the fluid is overheating and so I have ordered an extra oil cooler to add and see if it makes a difference if this works along with servicing the cvt I'll make sure to give all the details of my work. I have a 2009 nissan maxima with about 160k on it. I drive it for 30-40 min after hitting a stop in goes into limp mode until i pull over and shut the car off.... as soon as i turn it back on its good until the next stop sign.

japonicadunbar

I have had the same exact issues. Changed the battery and put on new terminals since the alternator looked fine according to my mechanic Still kept stalling out. No codes, but limp mode after stopping at a traffic light or so after driving 20-30 minutes. Finally after what seemed like a lifetime it threw 3 codes, P0335, P0340, P0345 - all related to the camshaft & crankshaft sensors. I decided to have another mechanic look at it. He ran a diagnostic that threw back transmission. He cleared out all codes and the transmission came back. He stated that that the transmission will cause the car to throw the other codes even though they are really not the issue. So, my car is at the dealership waiting for their diagnosis as I type this. I know that Nissan extended the powertrain warranty on some vehicles with CVTs. My hopes are that my 2016 Maxima SL is covered under that. I have 77,000 miles. I'll keep you posted.

Mr. Magana

ZOOM2012

Thank you so much for finding this video TDGrant.
Car kept losing power when i turned ac on or used my subs.
It was idling up and down for the longest. As soon as power would drop I would cut car off and sit for a few mins start it up and it would be back to normal so i ruled the battery out. I've changed spark plugs, sensors and could not figure out for at least over a year. This whoooole time that alternator was holding on for dear life LOL. Changed it out after spending my whole day working on it. All issues went away.

Thanks Again.

Djmessina

Several years late to this party. My 2011 Maxima does almost the same thing, but it starts when i have driven for a long time, and i notice it first when i try to accelerate from a stop. I press the gas, and it doesn’t move. But it will start moving very slowly after just a few seconds. And by then i have the pedal to the floor and it just takes off! Did you ever find out what it was?

ZOOM2012

I had the same issues, once I wrestled and pulled out old Altenator and put in new one all my issues were gone. Hope it works for you.