My check engine light has been on for a while. P0101 came on in the OBD reader.
Yesterday the Slip Indicator light came on and my RPMs started surging while idling. If I accelerate I can't go past 2500 rpm's. I don't know what to do...
i bought two MAF sensors at Oreilleys and it's still doing the same thing....

 

Sorry to hear you are having trouble with your car. How many miles are on it? There is another thread on here where they had this same problem last year. Unfortunately, they never posted the resolution. If we know a little more about your car, it might help to get an answer.
1) Is everything stock - intake, filter, throttle body, etc?
2) Have you or anyone else worked on anything besides replacing the MAF?
I have seen a thread where an Altima with the 3.5L had similar problem, and the dealer finally resolved it by replacing the throttle body. Perhaps cleaning the throttle body would help you out. I think the Slip light is related if it's not running well at idle.

Here is another thread where some had success having the dealer reprogram the ECU:
https://maxima.org/forums/7th-genera...-bulletin.html

Finally, you probably should perform the idle air relearn and throttle valve closed relearn procedures. Follow the steps exactly from this link:
http://nissanhelp.com/diy/maxima/pro...e_learning.php

Hope this helps. And if you get it taken care of, please come back and post the fix so the next guy can find it.

 

Thank you I'm actually having a new maf sensor installed at the moment to see if the ones I bought were bad I'll do the reprogram as well and see if that helps.
Everything in my car is stock
I'll keep you updated to see if this resolved my issue thanks 👌🏼

 

Once you replace the MAF, there is a service bulletin to reprogram the ECU. I had to get this done today, cost an hour of labor. Sorry, they kept the paperwork I had for the bulletin number

 

Did reprogramming it fix your issue?
My mechanic couldn't replace my sensor today.
I have the check engine light and my slip indicator light comes on which causes idle surges and car won't accelerate when I give it gas...
Are these the issues you had?

 

Another thread on the same subject and generation exist

 

I had just about the same issue when I first bought my 2011 Maxima last month. I noticed the service engine soon light came on and paid a belle tire store to diagnose it. They gave me the same p101 code that autozone gave me. I had the same slip experience the following evening when I filled up my tank. My RMP's did not exceed 3 and the slip light came on. I was really scared for my car, but after having it sit and restarting it the issue disappeared. I figured maybe it was the fuel I used. Now I only use Midgrade/Premium. The service engine light is also gone so I don't know whether to replace my MAF sensor because my gas mileage is reading 18mpg.

 

Same thing happened to me at first turning it off and back on it would go away but months later this issue came back. I just had my mechanic put in a new sensor and cleaned the intake I'm about to pick it up and see if the issue went away...
I'll keep you updated

 

The ECU need to be reprogrammed by the dealer.

If you can follow my post, you will see where there is a TSB on this and free fix before 80K miles. Your MPG will drop.

 

After doing some research, I came to this same conclusion. I am going to try it this week. I'm currently at 72,000 Miles.

 

I've been trying to avoid the dealership since I'm at 100k miles but if that's the solution to this problem I'll have to take it in

 

Mick: if you did any repairs / replacing the MAF, I strongly doubt the steralership will honor the TSB, and you may have to pay out of pocket

Danny: Just use some of that tax $$$$ and get it done... a week later you wont even think different.

 

https://maxima.org/forums/7th-genera...ming-back.html


Read up!!!

 

My car only goes into the limp mode when I put regular gas, not with 93 octane. I experimented with it few times and came to that conclusion. Idk if that helps but I do have ses light on and k&n intake installed

 

Hey OP, I really think you should make sure that the throttle body is clean and the intake pieces are all clamped together and no leaks before going down the ECM reprogram road. The TSB that everyone keeps talking about applies only if there are no drivability concerns. You have a drivability concern. What I think the TSB does is tweak the air/fuel ratio which is why MPG is affected. But you have driven 100k miles and not needed the A/F ratio tweaked so far.

So get the throttle body cleaned, check the intake connections, fill it up with top tier (not 7-Eleven) premium fuel, and try to do the idle air, throttle position closed, etc relearn procedures. Worst case, the problem doesn't go away but it didn't cost you much.

 

So I'm currently at the Nissan dealership and they aren't really acknowledging the TSB at all. After speaking with a representative, he stated that "not all TSB's will be covered. some are gonna come outta pocket" I think that't a load of bull****, but they're pulling manufacturers warranty's on me here. I'll let you guys know how things tunrout.

 

Update- So I went to the dealership and they seemed pretty incompetent. They told me that there is no TSB out for my 2011 Nissan Maxima and gave me some ****ty 450$ Estimate on replacing the MAF Sensor

 

I have a 2011. Did you pull the TSB?

 

What do you mean pull? Like mention it?

 

Yes

 

Yes, they had no idea what I was talking about. I'm going to have to try different dealerships

 

Read the link I posted. It contains the TSB. Show them. If they continue to be morons then go somewhere else

 

Mind sending me this link with the TSB specific info?

 

Scroll up. Post 13.

 

So, I just got off the phone with nissan service to schedule the reprogramming and they asked me which bulletin I needed for the reprogramming. I gave them "NTB12-051J" I hope it's correct

 

Also, do a web search and the maxima forum for the same TSB. The more you know the more prepared you will be when dealing with them

When I took my car in they acted dumb the same. I had to tell them of the TSB. At the end, it was covered up to 80k miles

 

So I replaced the maf sensor 3 times and still have the same issue
It'll drive great for a day and the next day it'll go back to driving in limp mode.
Throttle body, intake was cleaned out, same thing with the maf sensor..
I've been told the TSB is only done if I have no drive ability issues but I do have them. The P0101 code I keep getting mentions a low circuit electrical connection so I'm having my maf electrical connectors looked at right now because they look a little loose, hope that's the problem because this morning I gave my car gas and it drives fine...
I'll keep updating if I find a solution

 

Took it to the dealership, had them service it under the bulletin and they presented me with a bill of 89.95. I'm unsure of what to do.

 

Nothing left for you to do except to pay for work performed by the dealership if you are satisfied that the work corrected the problem. TSB's unlike recalls are not freebies. If your car was under warranty then the dealership might perform the work on their dime, but they are under no obligation to do so.

 

Update- Got the bill taken care of

 

Just posting to share my experience. Got a 2012 with 73k on the clock. Replaced the air filter with a WIX air filter and got a P0101. I also had some battery corrosion on the positive terminal.

Today, I cleaned off the positive terminal and put in the old air filter then cleared the DTC. Drove around a while and no more code.

 

 

P0101 Nissan - Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice Ricks Free Auto Repair Advice | Automotive Repair T.pdf

 

Is the throttle relearn procedure the same for a 2012 as it is for a 2011? I found the procedure for 2009-2011 but I am wondering why it stopped at 2011.

 

just to revisit this old thread.... My car recently throw the same code as well.... from this forum, I found this TSB from NHTSA website

https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/20...19172-9999.pdf

My question is , did your dealer charge you anything to get this done ?

There are only 2 Nissan dealers in Madison WI , 1 of them said they will charge ~$300-400 to get this works done and the other insist I need to pay initial diagnostic fee of $120 to get the code read, even after I insist I have the code read already.....

 

Did it ever come back on? I’m in the exact same boat with my 12? Any info would be greatly appreciated?

 

did you ever find out if it’s the same for a ‘12 as 9-11?

im in the same situation.....