When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Removal passenger cv axle
I’m having difficulty with removal of my 2010 maxima passenger cv axle. The axle seems to be froze in the bracket carrier/bearing mount. I’ve removed the 3 bolts and pulled on the axle enough times that the outer axle came disconnected from inner boot. Ate those three bolts all that holds the bracket on? I can’t find a diagram or an accurate maxima diy ( lots of Altima and rogues and I am sure the process is similar but not sure if I am missing a step) I have pb blaster soaked the bracket, banged on the bracket, the axle, the inner axle near the transmission, attempted to pry/chisel/seperate at the axle flange and bracket but I am having no luck. I am attempting a slide hammer this evening but not sure I will be able to get the right force application on the bracket. Any other pointers or tips?
I am not sure what "3 bolts" OP pulled but there are only 2 bolts holding the "stub axle" to the cvt.
Lets start here.
Did you manage to remove the wheel hub from the axle? (That is usually the hardest part) You usually drive it in towards the CVT which breaks any residual "metal weld" holding gears to spline Once that is done remove the two bolts holding the stub axle to the CVT. (I don't know where OP remove three) You may need to tap on the flange (twisting motion)
Now while twisting left and right (I assume you have the cvt in neutral) push in and out. (If the axle is in really bad shape you may need help to hold it together) But it comes straight out (don't try angles or you are in for trouble.) Remember, sometimes you may have to move the axle in and out of the cvt. I guess it is possible the flange/bearing is rusted to the frame, in which case a few well aimed blows with a mini sledge and lots of PB Blaster should do the trick. Try pulling straight out, no angles! You don't want to bind the bearing. Mine came right off without much persuasion at all.
I was wondering about the 3 bolts as well. It was only two. I didn't have any issues getting the axle out of the hub. The issue was getting the axle out of the carrier. I finally got it and the job is done. I pulled on the axle so much, it separated into two pieces. After that, I used a vice grips attachment on a slide hammer and it finally came out. Car is only 80 miles from hitting 300k. It's been a good car.
I am not sure what "3 bolts" OP pulled but there are only 2 bolts holding the "stub axle" to the cvt.
Lets start here.
Did you manage to remove the wheel hub from the axle? (That is usually the hardest part) You usually drive it in towards the CVT which breaks any residual "metal weld" holding gears to spline Once that is done remove the two bolts holding the stub axle to the CVT. (I don't know where OP remove three) You may need to tap on the flange (twisting motion)
Now while twisting left and right (I assume you have the cvt in neutral) push in and out. (If the axle is in really bad shape you may need help to hold it together) But it comes straight out (don't try angles or you are in for trouble.) Remember, sometimes you may have to move the axle in and out of the cvt. I guess it is possible the flange/bearing is rusted to the frame, in which case a few well aimed blows with a mini sledge and lots of PB Blaster should do the trick. Try pulling straight out, no angles! You don't want to bind the bearing. Mine came right off without much persuasion at all.
I have a 2010 Nissan Maxima and I'm also have a difficult time removing the separated CV axle on the passenger side. I also had turned my car in the "ON" position without starting then depressed the brake to put in the gear in "Neutral". I guess I left it "ON" for too long so now my car battery has died. So when you said you assumed is in "Neutral" in your post, did you just turned the car to the "ON" position, depressed the brake pedal, put it in "N" then push the "start/stop" button to the "OFF" position while leaving the car in "N." I did that before but I would hear a beep coming from the engine to let me know that the car wasn't in "P." I don't think the passenger cv axle has ever been changed on this car because there's a lot of rust buildup. I hear a lot of other posters talked about the use of vice grips and slide hammers but without photos, it's hard to picture how it was used but I can search the web for that too. I need to get a good length flat surface chisel while I drop off my battery to get charged at a local Autozone. Thanks guys for all your inputs.
01-25-2019, 03:36 PM
