Hi all. I am just about done with this car and about to drive it off of a cliff. So far, I have replaced two control arms, two struts, a new pair of headlights, and the last thing was a power steering pressure hose (high). I almost killed myself trying to replace the hose so I had someone do it for me. Turns out, the massive power steering leak was not only the high pressure hose, but ALSO the power steering pump that I just purchased last year. I'm not too sour on it because I am still under warranty, but I am getting very annoyed and running out of money. I tried to find anything I could on trying to replace it myself, but I have yet to see any forums or videos about it. Could I get suggestions?

 

I have done it twice. The first pump waa defective too. It is a bit frustrating and time conuming. The first time took me 8 hours, the second, three. As you noticed with the hose, not a lot of room to work, especially if you have big hands. Based on your frustration with the hose, you may want to outsource this job as it requires a lot of patience.

 

I know that it's going to take a while. I understand that. But I am out of money, until I can return the bad pump, so I have to do it myself. I was just wondering if anybody could give me a step by step on replacing it. I work constantly, so I need to fix it as soon as I'm off and I know I need about 5 hours at least so I don't want to waste any time on it.

 

Hi everyone I just did a flush on my power steering system today by unplugging the return hose and hooking up a long drain hose.
I routed the hose down past the rad and out the drain access hole and into a container.
I then made a plug for the reservoir return line so I could run fresh fluid and a lube guard power steering flush through the system.
I went back and forth between cranking the wheel lock to lock with engine off and turning engine on for about 3 seconds until I saw the fluid coming out clean.
After I filled it up with new fluid I forgot to bleed the air out of the system by turning the wheel lock to lock again.
So when I fired up the car the reservoir was sucked down to like 25% and the PS pump started making the screeching sound they make when low on fluid.
I quickly topped it off but when I got in the car turning the wheel was hard and kind of grindy and was making some noises. I shut off the engine and turned wheel lock to lock ten times then fired her up and drove in circles and in reverse turning wheel back and forth. After about two mins the screeching stopped and the wheel got smooth again so the air must have been worked out?

Do you think I could have caused any damage to the PS system? When I first got the car the PS fluid was a little low, ancient and completely black and smelled burnt! So I am much happier knowing it has fresh clean red/pink fluid in there now.

I am hoping I will not have to replace the pump as I hear it is not an easy job to get to them. I can't even see it on the engine I just kind of know its in the back by the belt.

**Also does anyone know how to bleed the PS system?**

 

Also I noticed the ATF is a little thinner than the PSF I used to flush the system?

The Nissan branded PSF looked exactly the same as the dex III ATF even smelled the same.

Today when I am driving I noticed that the wheel feels a little looser than before I switched the fluid.

 

Dexron III is good in your ps pump. It is a suitable replacement.

I think you may be having an expectation set difference. While yes, it is possible that air bubbles or foamy ps fluid was in use before making it seem a bit more difficult to turn, i havent seen this in practice (due to ps fluid that is.)

 

I have a 2012 Maxima , all my dash lights are all on my speedometer and obd not working, I’ve checked all fuse and they all seem to be ok can anyone help

 

Thanks for the answer LtLeary!

Do you think I damaged my steering box/rack by turning the wheel when it was low on fluid? It made a horrible grinding sound but once the fluid and pressure got in there everything is fine.

Only thing I notice is maybe I can feel more bumps/engine vibration through the steering wheel.

Is there any way to check on the gears of the rack and pinion?

 

Usually, "broke" from low fluid would be seal related not gear. Your steering is designed to operate even with no fluid. So feeling more "driver input" may be tie rod ends or ball joints, but they usually manifest as sloppy steering. Bumps and vibration may be a bad motor mount too, but would check the inner and outer tie fod ends first.