Buying a 7th Gen in 2019 - what to look for? CVT?
Buying a 7th Gen in 2019 - what to look for? CVT?
I've read through a number of threads here but I can't find anything that's really current on buying.
Considering a 7th Gen to replace a 4th Gen. I wanted lower miles but the best I can seem to find is in the 100-110K range. Just found a 2013 with 113K that might be a player. Some other 2010 - 2012 in the 105K range. I'd prefer 80K-ish miles but I can't seem to find one.
What do I look for in terms of problem areas?
I read some posts on CVT issues, making sure there are fluid changes, etc. What if you don't have service records for the car - is it high risk? Any way to tell if the fluid has been changed at higher miles i.e. color? Any indicators / tests of tranny issues?
I saw one post that mentioned a #1 bearing issue. Are there engine concerns? I'm avoiding a 6th Gen for that reason.. are there concerns in the 7th Gen?
Anything else to consider about these cars?
Considering a 7th Gen to replace a 4th Gen. I wanted lower miles but the best I can seem to find is in the 100-110K range. Just found a 2013 with 113K that might be a player. Some other 2010 - 2012 in the 105K range. I'd prefer 80K-ish miles but I can't seem to find one.
What do I look for in terms of problem areas?
I read some posts on CVT issues, making sure there are fluid changes, etc. What if you don't have service records for the car - is it high risk? Any way to tell if the fluid has been changed at higher miles i.e. color? Any indicators / tests of tranny issues?
I saw one post that mentioned a #1 bearing issue. Are there engine concerns? I'm avoiding a 6th Gen for that reason.. are there concerns in the 7th Gen?
Anything else to consider about these cars?
Last edited by BobMax; Sep 19, 2019 at 08:45 AM.
All good questions. I did see in the Service Manual where it discussed a "Stall Test" for the CVT. Basically, you hold the brake, put the car in D, and put the gas pedal on the floor. Hold it there for less than 5 seconds. Should be between 2,700-3,500 RPM. If it is higher or lower than this range, then there could be problems with the Steel belt or Pulleys in the CVT. It says to do this in "D" and in "R".
Others might have other ideas or methods.
Kirk
Others might have other ideas or methods.
Kirk
I'll start off by saying "LET THE BUYER BEWARE".
I have four criteria that have to be met on buying used autos.
1. Service and maintenance records a must. My belief is if they are not available the car was not taken care of properly.
2. Clean car fax report, with only one owner, non rental. Multiple owners mean they sold it for a reason, which you are not privy to.
3. Latest model available, in your case a 2013/14 model year. They are not going to cost much more than a 2009/10 and they have a better CVT.
4. When you get the one you like, pay a good mechanic to inspect it. He could find things that will cost a lot more in the future in repairs than the couple hundred you pay him.
FWIW I own a 2009 SV Sport and have not had a problem in the 9 years of ownership. Its the best car I've ever owned. I tend to hang on to my cars for a long time and when I'm done with it I wouldn't hesitate to give it to one of my grandkids.
Good luck in your search.
I have four criteria that have to be met on buying used autos.
1. Service and maintenance records a must. My belief is if they are not available the car was not taken care of properly.
2. Clean car fax report, with only one owner, non rental. Multiple owners mean they sold it for a reason, which you are not privy to.
3. Latest model available, in your case a 2013/14 model year. They are not going to cost much more than a 2009/10 and they have a better CVT.
4. When you get the one you like, pay a good mechanic to inspect it. He could find things that will cost a lot more in the future in repairs than the couple hundred you pay him.
FWIW I own a 2009 SV Sport and have not had a problem in the 9 years of ownership. Its the best car I've ever owned. I tend to hang on to my cars for a long time and when I'm done with it I wouldn't hesitate to give it to one of my grandkids.
Good luck in your search.
09 model is the most reliable from my research .....have one myself too. 183k on original CVT....changed some parts myself like, radiator at 180k, fluid, filters, original axles went at 180k had mechanic do that lol, shocks too around same time.....and this is in NYC pot hole city, but for a almost ten year old car its been great, had it for almost 3 years....treat them good and you will be happy. Hard to find for a good price cause they last too and are good cars, I got lucky cause last owner was moving from the country and bought it the same day he posted the ad, but I was searching forever,...god blessed me though thank god.
Bob,
Here is a link to the 2010 service manual. Download the TM section. The maintenance section starts on pg 149.
https://www.my4dsc.com/nissan-info/f...ervice-manual/
Here is a link to the 2010 service manual. Download the TM section. The maintenance section starts on pg 149.
https://www.my4dsc.com/nissan-info/f...ervice-manual/
IMH this is a classical Russian roulette thing.
Yes, 1 owner, no accidents, clean Carfax, service records, good price, etc.. are good indicator but you never know what happens down the road. It's a used car so a risk always.
Test drive with a "hard drive". If some serious issues are there you'll feel it. CVT is your biggest fear.
Have a knowledge mech (a KNOWLEDGE, not a Sunday mech) whom you know well see the car upside down and see what he tells after your test drive.
Yes, 1 owner, no accidents, clean Carfax, service records, good price, etc.. are good indicator but you never know what happens down the road. It's a used car so a risk always.
Test drive with a "hard drive". If some serious issues are there you'll feel it. CVT is your biggest fear.
Have a knowledge mech (a KNOWLEDGE, not a Sunday mech) whom you know well see the car upside down and see what he tells after your test drive.
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