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I am getting a P0174 code, running lean on bank 2. It started after I removed the resonator -- the artificial noisemaker that is part of the air intake system -- so I'm guessing something I took apart is leaking. What I removed was the air filter assembly and the air duct. There is one part that connects to the air duct that looks like it's out-of-round. I want to buy a new one but I don't know what it's called. I tried to find it on NissanPartsDeal.com by looking at their diagrams, but I can't find it. I did find a picture of it in the service manual, but it doesn't say what it's called. Here are photos. It's the rectangular-shaped part. I found that I can blow air right through it, but if you hold it up to your eyes, you can't see through it. Anyone know what it is and what it does?
I suspect it's leaking at the hose clamp where it connects to the air duct.
Are you talking about more than one part. The rectangular box is not the artificial engine noise generator. It is located underneath the accordian shaped tube and up near the firewall. Some on here remove that to quiet the cabin noise, and replace the hole in the intake tube with a 1 1/2" rubber plug. Out of curiosity why do you want to replace that square box?
Last edited by Richard66; Mar 7, 2020 at 11:59 AM.
I know that's not the noise generator. What I'm saying is that I disconnected the rectangular thing from the air duct in the process of removing the noise generator. I want to replace the rectangular part, as I said, because the connection is out-of-round and I suspect that's where the leak is coming from. But I can't buy the part if I can't tell them what it is. I tried googling the number that's stamped onto it but nothing comes up.
Ok - I looked at a couple of Nissan parts sites and couldn't find that part either. That out of round spud might be normal as you didn't get the P code until you reassembled the parts. I was wondering if the plug for the removed noise generator is not completely sealed. Some on here cut off the end of the generator and put that back in the hole then cap the hole with the plug. this will give the hole a more stiffness so the hose clamp can tighten down good.
I get the code whether the resonator is on or off so I don't think it's the cap. To clarify, after getting the code I tried putting the resonator back on but the code came back. So I think the leak is somewhere else.
• Intake air leakage
• A/F sensor 1
• Fuel injector
• Exhaust gas leakage
• Incorrect fuel pressure
• Lack of fuel
• Mass air flow sensor
• Incorrect PCV hose connection
If I for some reason didn't have an FSM, even though it's free, I would start with cleaning the MAF (because it's easy). Then I would move to leak checking, specifically, the two connections at the back of the intake manifold for PCV and brake booster. Then I would replace bank 2 O2 sensor. The accordion boot is often the culprit on 4th and 5th gens. Later gen rubber is still a bit too new to split.
