Has anyone replaced their wheel bearings? I have a rotational noise coming from my front left whee that sounds like the bearing my be going bad. I assume the wheel hub has to come off and the old bearing pressed out and new one pressed in. I’m was just looking for info or tricks of anyone have done it before. I’ve done it on a 93 Toyota MR2 but not my anything new

 

Lt Leary for sure replaced his(es). I hope he'll chime in.

 

The bearings on 7th gen maxima are hub bearings, both front and rear. No press required and they are held in by 4 bolts each.
The only trick is to remove abs sensor before removing the hub bearing, or you will destroy it while removing the bearing.
Outside of that its super easy.
Get your wheel off, caliper off, remove the rotor, remove axle cotter pin and nut.
slightly push your axle in to make sure its not bound up on the inner bearing race.
Remove ABS sensor.
Then remove the 4 bolts holding the bearing from the back.
Knock the hub bearing out. Depending on how much rust you have, it may just slide out or need a slide hammer.
Get quality SKF/Timken/NTN bearing.
All torque values are in service manual.

 

thanks a bunch! That’s good info.

 

The hardest part I have experienced is removing the axle from the bearing. It is either very easy, or an a extreme pain in the rear. If the Slide Hammer/heat/banging doesn't work, use some old lug nuts and tighten the puller down against the axles with the lug nuts.It may ruin the lug nuts so make sure you are using throw-aways. Note Maxud's warning re the abs sensor. Take care with that 10mm bolt and don't forget to remove it first. And while not required, I like a little Threadlocker (blue is fine) on the bearing bolts.

 

Thanks Lt. It seems pretty straight fwd so I think I’m going to attempt it.

 

It's an easy job not to bad, as explained earlier depending on corrosion, etc. I sprayed a lot of PB blaster and hit the hub a few times with a hammer and it came right off.

 

+1 for PB Blaster.

 

thanks for all the info. I did the work today, only took about an hr and 1/2.
the ABS light on the gauge cluster is on though. It there a reset for the system?

 

No specific ABS reset, you can clear ABS codes if you have appropriate scan tool.
My guess you either damaged the ABS sensor during removal or your bearing is defective.

Did everything come apart easy? Did you align the new bearing correctly, I believe it can be rotated 180 degrees, but only one side will have the hole for abs sensor.

 

yeah, everything was easy. Had to tap the old hub off because I done have a puller but it wasn’t bad.
I didn’t think about alignment. I did see 3 slots on the inboard side of the wheel hub. I didn’t think much of it at the time but after reading your comment it makes me feel like it may be 180 deg out. The ABS sensor slid right in with no resistance but that might not mean anything.

 

if sensor slid right in, you probably lucked out and got it right, because it would only fit into one slot.
what brand bearing did you get?

 

I bought a stock P/N from my local auto parts store. They had two options. One for $130 and the other for $200. I went for the cheeper one.........

 

I bought new front bearings, but haven't put them on yet.....can't recall what I paid, but I remember getting a smokin' deal on a pair of rear bearings from RockAuto....IIRC, it was about $100 for the pair on closeout.....There's a ridiculous amount of markup in car parts and just about everything else that's vehicle and motorized equipment-related.

 

You are going to have to read the codes, if you dont have scanner capable of reading codes, go to your local Advance auto parts or Autozone and ask them to read the codes.
They typically have systems capable of reading ABS codes.
If you are confident that ABS sensor is intact, I would have to assume that your bearing is bad. You can try to test resistance of both your front ABS sensors and compare the value.
Disconnect ABS connector, and test the resistance between the two pins. Another test you can do is swap the front left and right abs sensors, its the same part number.
Do this after you get the code read and see if the code changes. If the code stays the same, its definitely your new wheel bearing, otherwise, it could be the sensor.

good luck
Max
p.s. Rockauto has timken bearings for $75 and SKF for $130 + s/h + tax. I would pick any one of them over local store brand.

 

There are two variants of wheel bearings (and I am not sure why they say they are for our 7th gens) One with and one without ABS (both have the cutouts) I "clicked" on the wrong type for the rears and had to return/reorder. (Yep, I got what I ordered!)

 

If you look at RockAuto
https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/...ing+&+hub,1636
I don't see with/without ABS. As far as I know all USA Maxima's have 4 wheel ABS brakes.
Can you share where you saw two types?

I have once installed a bearing that had abs issues, not something that happens often, but its a possibility.

 

Let me look, I ordered mine off of Amazon a few years back so let me see if I can find it.

 

[QUOTE=maxud;9223990]You are going to have to read the codes, if you dont have scanner capable of reading codes, go to your local Advance auto parts or Autozone and ask them to read the codes.
They typically have systems capable of reading ABS codes.
If you are confident that ABS sensor is intact, I would have to assume that your bearing is bad. You can try to test resistance of both your front ABS sensors and compare the value.
Disconnect ABS connector, and test the resistance between the two pins. Another test you can do is swap the front left and right abs sensors, its the same part number.
Do this after you get the code read and see if the code changes. If the code stays the same, its definitely your new wheel bearing, otherwise, it could be the sensor.

good luck
Max
p.s. Rockauto has timken bearings for $75 and SKF for $130 + s/h + tax. I would pick any one of them over local store brand.[/QUOTE

thanks, I’ll see what I can come up with this weekend