2011 Nissan maxima 3.5 sv having an issue when your turn the a/c after awhile it starts to shaks, sputter misfires real bad rpms drop but once you turn the a/c off car runs normal and no codes. Took it to the shop they couldnt find no issues literally everything was check. Anybody ever heard of this issue need help please

 

Need help pleaseee

 

To get to the root problem, you'll need a diagnostician like Mr. O. from South Main Auto or Diagnose Dan. I think you will find you are getting too lean, which most times equates to a vacuum leak which under the load allows more air to bypass the MAF. I am going to assume that your issue is occurring at idle and not at highway speeds. So I doubt they checked "literally everything" but I understand the hyperbole.

 

I wonder if the AC is putting a massive load on the alternator? Maybe the AC clutch is starting to seize up.

 

How do you have a problem, take it to a shop, then they tell you there is no problem, but still have a problem?

 

they check the alternator all the coil plugs maf o2 sensor cats ive dumped so much money and still cal find the issue even swapped computers

 

they checked that also

 

happens on the highway also no matter if im going fast or slow

 

Well, it is probably a wire or sensor and faulty information being sent to the computer. Since it only happens when the AC is on, check everything that is associated with the AC.

Gonna be some work. Electrical stuff always is.

 

you think the computer can also be bad ?

 

No. It would do it all the time is the computer was messed up.

I think a wire has been rubbed/chewed, a wire's connector is comprised, or a sensor is on its way out. All three can cause resistance, which will mess up the signals being sent to the computer, and then the computer is not going to get the appropriate information. Hence, the bucking when the AC is on.

As it only occurs when the AC is on, I would check everything that the AC connects to: wires, connectors, and sensors. Why is the AC messing with the car? That is what ya gotta find out.

 

well this crazy because now im driving as always with no issues and its doing it with the A/C off also wtff is this about and getting no codes

 

I'm at a loss. Hopefully someone with similar issues chimes in.

 

How old is your battery?

 

8/20 on the sticker so not that old

 

Even though your battery is pretty new it could be on the weak side and not able to provide the correct amperage load for the AC thereby affecting how the car runs. These cars are very susceptible to problems when batteries cannot provide the necessary voltage. I would put in a new fully charged battery and see if that corrects your problem.

 

ill try that also next and maybe also another m.a.f sensor someone said to change it even tho the shop checked it but wasnt replaced?

 

Still guessing without any readings but did they check your exhaust system for any clogs or restrictions?

 

yes they checked my cats front and back and the o2 sensors

 

So there is nothing wrong, or they didnt do all they said. You really need a diagnostician and/or another mechamic.

 

i was there 95% of the time when everything was getting checked i even helped work on the car.

 

I would hook up a voltmeter to any 12VDC terminal in the car, drive the car and see if the voltage level is acting up when the AC is on and the problem occurs. . I would expect that If the car is not getting a consistent DC voltage it will effect the operation of the Engine Control Module.

 

Sorry havnt messed around with the car past week will try that also on my own took the car home from the shop wasted to much money and no results

 

No problem. It is probably a long shot but if there is one thing I learned about troubleshooting and repair is try the cheap and easy stuff first. Having the AC on creates a large load on the the electrical system, if the electrical system is not functioning properly this could cause other problems such as you describe with the vehicle.

 

i wonder if it could be the computer

 

Could be but I doubt it. Electronic components are typically the most reliable parts of a vehicle. It's the power supply like batteries and alternators, sensors and their connects/wiring that most often cause failure. Moving parts and that are exposed to the elements and vibration are what usually fail.

If you had a spare computer {Engine control module) I would say sure try swapping it out but I would not begin my troubleshooting there.

Your issue may be similar to the one in this other thread. If the Power supply of the vehicle, the alternator, battery and associated wiring, is not working properly it can cause all sorts of strange problems with vehicle operation.
https://maxima.org/forums/7th-genera...ease-help.html