Bypassing the voltage variable control system
Bypassing the voltage variable control system
So I installed a high output alternator and it says at 14.8v but at idle drops to 13.8v with no music playing. Its this voltage variable control system. The alternator is hooked up to bypass the computer but that system measures voltage through the ground. Ive read people unplug it but im hesitant on doing that. I didn't pay $600 for 13.8 at idle. Literally the second I touch the gas pedal, right back at 14.8. Had anyone had this issue and while im asking does anyone have stillen grounding kit instructions? I. Appreciate any advice, help. Thanks.
. Im running 2 Evl 12s
Skv2 1500 watt ampSkar equalizer as a line driverBoss double din HU
2 AGMs390 amp alternator
Big 4 with dual runsAll with 1/0 ofc from GP audio
. Im running 2 Evl 12s
Skv2 1500 watt ampSkar equalizer as a line driverBoss double din HU
2 AGMs390 amp alternator
Big 4 with dual runsAll with 1/0 ofc from GP audio
I did this with my Frontier. See post #8:
https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads...sensor.362587/
Is that what you already did?
I also have a Stillen grounding kit on my truck. What exactly do you want to know?
https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads...sensor.362587/
Is that what you already did?
I also have a Stillen grounding kit on my truck. What exactly do you want to know?
I did this with my Frontier. See post #8:
https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads...sensor.362587/
Is that what you already did?
I also have a Stillen grounding kit on my truck. What exactly do you want to know?
https://www.clubfrontier.org/threads...sensor.362587/
Is that what you already did?
I also have a Stillen grounding kit on my truck. What exactly do you want to know?
I found the wire. Its wire 76 in the plug. Im gonna go look n see if I can find it. Did you cut yours ?
First I unplugged the current sensor around the battery ground to see if the voltage increased. The voltage increased but made the CEL come on so I cut the wire at the IPDM/fuse box.
Stillen's directions are pretty lame. The FSM has better info about the grounds PG-25. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...F2009%2FPG.pdf
Stillen's directions are pretty lame. The FSM has better info about the grounds PG-25. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...F2009%2FPG.pdf
First I unplugged the current sensor around the battery ground to see if the voltage increased. The voltage increased but made the CEL come on so I cut the wire at the IPDM/fuse box.
Stillen's directions are pretty lame. The FSM has better info about the grounds PG-25. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...F2009%2FPG.pdf
Stillen's directions are pretty lame. The FSM has better info about the grounds PG-25. https://www.nicoclub.com/service-man...F2009%2FPG.pdf
I know this thread is nearly a year old but was hoping for some insight/guidance possibly since my issue is very very similar to the OP..... Post will be sorta long but please if anyone can help me, please reply.... I own two maximas, my first one is a 2017 S that I installed an aftermarket audio system in, which required me to install a high output alternator (250A), AGM battery, and upgrade my wiring (big 3 upgrade) to 1/0 gauge. Besides a couple minor tweaks I did at the beginning right after installing the alternator, it was very straight forward, and to this day is still going strong....
Fast forward from 2020 to about a month ago, I purchased my 2nd maxima, it's a 2014 SV sport package... On this one I decided to go bigger on the audio system, bigger high output alternator as far as amperage anyway, biggest xs power battery that would fit, and my big 3 upgrade is 2/0 gauge instead of 1/0.... During my installation of the alternator (320A), I find out this maxima has this stupid Variable Voltage Control System!! My aftermarket high output alternator uses its own new harness that bypasses the computer but I also ended up unplugging the sensor on the negative terminal. I've triple checked my grounds, the harness to make sure it's completely plugged in, the belt, power cable from the alternator B+ post to battery positive terminal, both battery terminals, and with my multimeter I'm getting the 14.7-14.8 I'm supposed to get with this aftermarket alternator, but I STILL have my battery and brake light warning lights staying on at the dash.... Does anyone know how to get these to turn off??? Going back to stock is NOT an option.... Thanks in advance
Fast forward from 2020 to about a month ago, I purchased my 2nd maxima, it's a 2014 SV sport package... On this one I decided to go bigger on the audio system, bigger high output alternator as far as amperage anyway, biggest xs power battery that would fit, and my big 3 upgrade is 2/0 gauge instead of 1/0.... During my installation of the alternator (320A), I find out this maxima has this stupid Variable Voltage Control System!! My aftermarket high output alternator uses its own new harness that bypasses the computer but I also ended up unplugging the sensor on the negative terminal. I've triple checked my grounds, the harness to make sure it's completely plugged in, the belt, power cable from the alternator B+ post to battery positive terminal, both battery terminals, and with my multimeter I'm getting the 14.7-14.8 I'm supposed to get with this aftermarket alternator, but I STILL have my battery and brake light warning lights staying on at the dash.... Does anyone know how to get these to turn off??? Going back to stock is NOT an option.... Thanks in advance
I know this thread is nearly a year old but was hoping for some insight/guidance possibly since my issue is very very similar to the OP..... Post will be sorta long but please if anyone can help me, please reply.... I own two maximas, my first one is a 2017 S that I installed an aftermarket audio system in, which required me to install a high output alternator (250A), AGM battery, and upgrade my wiring (big 3 upgrade) to 1/0 gauge. Besides a couple minor tweaks I did at the beginning right after installing the alternator, it was very straight forward, and to this day is still going strong....
Fast forward from 2020 to about a month ago, I purchased my 2nd maxima, it's a 2014 SV sport package... On this one I decided to go bigger on the audio system, bigger high output alternator as far as amperage anyway, biggest xs power battery that would fit, and my big 3 upgrade is 2/0 gauge instead of 1/0.... During my installation of the alternator (320A), I find out this maxima has this stupid Variable Voltage Control System!! My aftermarket high output alternator uses its own new harness that bypasses the computer but I also ended up unplugging the sensor on the negative terminal. I've triple checked my grounds, the harness to make sure it's completely plugged in, the belt, power cable from the alternator B+ post to battery positive terminal, both battery terminals, and with my multimeter I'm getting the 14.7-14.8 I'm supposed to get with this aftermarket alternator, but I STILL have my battery and brake light warning lights staying on at the dash.... Does anyone know how to get these to turn off??? Going back to stock is NOT an option.... Thanks in advance
Fast forward from 2020 to about a month ago, I purchased my 2nd maxima, it's a 2014 SV sport package... On this one I decided to go bigger on the audio system, bigger high output alternator as far as amperage anyway, biggest xs power battery that would fit, and my big 3 upgrade is 2/0 gauge instead of 1/0.... During my installation of the alternator (320A), I find out this maxima has this stupid Variable Voltage Control System!! My aftermarket high output alternator uses its own new harness that bypasses the computer but I also ended up unplugging the sensor on the negative terminal. I've triple checked my grounds, the harness to make sure it's completely plugged in, the belt, power cable from the alternator B+ post to battery positive terminal, both battery terminals, and with my multimeter I'm getting the 14.7-14.8 I'm supposed to get with this aftermarket alternator, but I STILL have my battery and brake light warning lights staying on at the dash.... Does anyone know how to get these to turn off??? Going back to stock is NOT an option.... Thanks in advance
The battery light is on cause the factory plug for the alternator was bypassed to keep the car from controlling anything voltage wise. It will always stay on. I'm assuming you have a voltage gauge installed to be able to watch your voltage. Not sure why the brake light is on.
The battery light is on cause the factory plug for the alternator was bypassed to keep the car from controlling anything voltage wise. It will always stay on. I'm assuming you have a voltage gauge installed to be able to watch your voltage. Not sure why the brake light is on.
Last edited by Grady09SV; Jan 5, 2024 at 11:05 AM.
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