Just changed my oil on 2010 Maxima. Went smoothly, but I only lifted the left side of the car (don't ask).

Emptied the car, looked like the usual wet change 4.5 quart (did not change filter - again, don't ask), added 4.5 quart. Lowered the car. Ran the engine Checked the dip stick... Ooopppssss.

The stick is wet all the way up - wayyyyyy past the F level. Did it again with same result. Ran the engine. Checked again, with same result.

Conclusion... the oil level is (possibly) high. Differential diagnosis: The oil stick is wet and it will settle.

Note: I have never had this problem before.

Questions: Did the angle cause the problem (left side high (the plug is on the end and and leftish of pan))? If not, what am I missing? Will the oil level come down (is it a false positive)? If overfilled, can I get a pass to next change?

 

Not asking but as you say this isnt your first rodeo, the level on the stick after running is way high....this was on the 2nd wipe (first time, engine off, wipe stick, put back in and check. So, if this is true, you really need to drain some oil. Running that full causes (at a minimum) foamy oil from the crankshaft whipping up the oil which can cause low oil pressure from all the air bubbles.

Raising only one side can impede oil draining into the pan from the engine, so yeah, that wasnt the best move but could have been somewhat ok if you did what a lot of us old guys were taught, always underfill and then top up.

Best of Luck!

 

My driveway is about 60degree incline.
280k miles until now, I will drive the passenger wheel onto ramp to reach drain plug and filter.
drain to a drip then tighten.
new filter and 5 quarts poured.
280k miles later and still going.

will notice burning about 1/2 quart changing oil at 4k miles.
😎😎

 

You didn’t change the filter. Therefore, the filter volume remained undrained.

You refilled with the full required volume.

(FRV)+(UFV)=(TMO)

(FRV) - Full Required Volume
(UFV) - Undrained Filter Volume
(TMO) - Too Much Oil

 

The only accurate reading I have ever received is checking first thing in the morning before the car is started. Assuming it is parked on level ground.

I use 5 quarts with a new filter.

4.5 qt without a filter sounds like it should be in the ball park.

it is possible that jacking the vehicle at an unusual angle could cause less oil to drain.

 

we doing the same work, except I always change filter…..
IMO, you good, and like said…. 280k+ miles later and no concerns

 

Nope … I’m wrong. This is right out of the 2010’s FSM.

4.5 qts with no filter change is correct.

 

I checked before changing. The requirement was for 4.5 wet (i.e. without changing filter, which is what I added.)

 

Pretty close to what I did except that I had no incline (i.e. passenger side up on even surface.) What was the last part about the burning?

 

Yep, live and learn. I normally do hold back a 1/2 quart, crank, measure and add, but this one time I deviated from the SOP. I hate screwing around with draining of excess. It is always a mess and makes me feel like I am wasting oil (which, of course, I am). Also, I can never get to the plug without raising the car, so hassle, hassle, hassle.

 

You NEVER going to get a good oil dipstick reading in this engine if car hasn't been sitting for at least 4 to 5 hours. I drove 2 5.5th gens, a 6th and 2 7ths. Exact same case in all of them.
Check oil in the morning before running the engine.
4.5 quarts is perfect if you get it all drained without filter change.

 

Yep. I do hate the Max dip stick with a passion. I read the LH side and get one view. Then I turn it around and there is oil residue WAY up the stick.

 

Thank you, thought I was crazy. I wasn't paying attention one time to how much oil I got out and because there was oil all over the dipstick, couldn't tell after several dips. Ended up getting a CEL for low oil & got 3 more quarts in by the time I got a good reading on the other side of the stick.

 

Didn't know the Max had a low oil (pressure or level?) CEL. Good to know. Would be nice if it had a high level CEL as well.

 

Never heard of that. It has a low pressure switch which controls the oil lamp on cluster.

 

Don't think it was directly for low oil pressure, let me correct myself. It threw me a P0011 code for camshaft positioning. I assumed since there wasn't enough oil it wasn't moving freely enough. It happened right after the oil change, so I just put in a few more quarts, cleared it, and it didn't come back after that.