New here and recently purchased a 2014 Maxima. Trying to figure out what my vibration is while under throttle. When throttle is released vibration stops. I replaced the upper torque strut mount and it did not fix. Helped ever so slightly but didn’t resolve. I have been a mechanic for several years and I narrowed the issues down to either a bad torque strut mount or a failing CV axle. Motor does not move much when I apply pressure. I know there is a right rear torque strut mount “buffer” but I cannot for the life of me find anything about how to replace it or even its exact location. Nor can I find exactly what it is and why it’s called a mount buffer. When you purchase the mount kits, that mount has to be purchased separately. Help please!!

 

The right rear torque mount is behind the passenger wheel under the cv axle. It's not hard to change, you can get one from RockAuto like I did. Here's the part, DEA / MARMON RIDE CONTROLA7362.

 

I just replaced my front, right and torque mounts. I have never heard of a "torque buffer." My transmission mount and rear looked great, although do know that the front and rear mounts use vacuum to help ease vibration at different loads. You may have vacuum leaks or even torn rubber that cant be seen while on car. As you mention, it could be the drive shafts but more likely the mounts.

 

Okay thank you. I ordered that one and should be in tomorrow. Any idea how hard it is to replace or check the front/rear vacuum lines to the engine mounts? I’m new to this new age tech and these mounts seem high tech.

 

I agree with Lt, check the vacuum lines for the engine mounts for leaks. They get old and worn out and could leak, causing the mounts to not work right. I have a 2014 as well and went through and changed out all of the original vacuum lines with new hoses and it seems to run/idle better. As far as changing the rear torque mount, I just supported the engine while changing it. As with everything, patience goes a long way.

 

Any idea on how difficult those lines are to access/replace? Just trying to get an idea of what I’m looking to have to do? I know mount replacement is difficult for the actual engine and transmission but how are those lines? Thanks.

 

These are all pretty easy to replace, but for the rear. Just know if your transmission mount is solid or in great shape like mine was, loosen the bolts on it as no matter how much you jack up the engine, it will hold tight and not allow the clearance needed for the front and even the right.

As for checking the mounts for vacuum, just pull the old brake bleeder kit most of us old guys have and attach it to the front and rear vacuum hose. The should hold vacuum, if not well the mount is suspect. The hoses are easy to get to underneath if you pull off the splash sheild. You can get to the front from up top if you have thin arms and can reach berween the fans and the block.

 

Alright. I’m going to pickup the lower torque mount tomorrow. Vibration is pretty intense and extremely aggravating. Granted I paid $5800 for the car, I expected some issues but nothing outside of the normal maintenance. Previous owners purchased it in 2017 with 23k. It now has 128k. Lots of miles for 6 years. Aside from the annoying vibration and an alignment, everything else seems to be fine. I will post an update of my findings when I can get a better look at it. We had some tornado warnings today with heavy rain so I didn’t get a chance to look at it.

 

One more thing, can those vacuum lines be replaced without replacing the mounts? I’ve already got $200 in motor mounts dumped into it. So if I can save some cash and labor time that would be great. Are they just rubber hoses that fit onto the mount and a separate location? This is the first time I’ve heard of vacuum lines on a motor mount so it’s all new to me.

 

Here is my old front mount. The hose disappears inside and I couldnt feel a nipple

 

Well today was awesome weather and I was able to inspect. My rear passenger torque mount wasn’t terrible but I went ahead and replaced it since I had it ordered. I checked the vacuum lines and all seemed okay. No major wear apparent. However I had my girl get in and put car in drive and reverse and noticed a good 3/4”-1” movement coming from the upper passenger engine mount by the coolant tank. Mount is ordered and will be swapping it out. I decided to go forth with getting parts from store for warranty purposes rather than ordering online. Also when I placed the jack underneath the car prior to removing the torque mount, I went ahead and gave it a few pumps and there is definitely excessive movement from the mount I am about to replace. Amazing what a bad motor mount will do to a car. When all is done, I’ll post an update. Thanks everyone for the tips and pictures. I also hope that for those who experience similar issues, this forum helps.

 

Hey does anyone know about the possibility of it being the driver side axle? I’m seeing where there’s a joint bearing in it? When I put car in gear, that axle shifts. Could that be my issue??

 

4/6 mounts replaced. Helped but didn’t resolve. What are the chances of it being the driver side cv shaft? I’m seeing where the driver side axle has a bearing inside of it or something. When you drive it you can hear a noise almost like a brake pad when it’s rubbing. Goes away when you turn left. Makes noise when you turn right. Idk.

 

Well, from your initial symptom of vibration under load and going away when you lift, that most probably is motor mount. Your new symptoms could be cv or even wheel bearing, or even some detritus picked up im the wheel well. Cv axles usually ( but not always) do more of a clicking noise.

By the way, it is passenger side that has the "carrier bearing.) The driver side is direct to cvt.

 

If you have vibration on acceleration but subsides when lifting off the throttle, that is almost always in cv joint, your axle. Had a bad one on my 03 when accelerating, but stopped after easing off throttle. Put a used oem axle on passenger side then it drove butter smooth