2016 Maxima randomly shutting off while driving. *NEED HELP*
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Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 2
Oh wow! I have been dealing with this very issue for the last 2 months!! It wasn’t until earlier today that I considered whether the front collision light coming on had anything to do with it. it has cut off on me twice, I had AAA look at it and it’s been to the Nissan dealership three times and they find nothing. I have explained to them you have to just get in and DRIVE it for it to happen. They “did” and when got my car back they mileage was on and additional 40 from what I gave to them. So, I took it to another Nissan dealership tonight for my 930 am appt. My car is a 2016 Maxima Platinum with 53500 miles. I am beyond frustrated. I am going to have them look at the cluster that was mentioned by Vernita..I pray this is it cause I’m scared to drive my car anymore.
QUOTE=vernitarjohnson;9241990]Hey
Just found out what the issue is & Nissan is aware of the on going issue, but is not considering it a recall.
It’s the cluster that has to get replaced. A device that charges the battery & alternator to get power so the car can run. The cost is $2,000.00 it’s going to take about 2-3 weeks to order send it out to get programmed to the car exact mileage, then installed. I took my car to Firestone and they kept my car on the computer until the same thing happened. That’s how they figured out what was causing the car to lose power. The tech stayed in contact with Nissan concerning the issue. It’s a lot, but I’m happy they figured it out. And this is not covered under the warranty either.[/QUOTE]
QUOTE=vernitarjohnson;9241990]Hey
Just found out what the issue is & Nissan is aware of the on going issue, but is not considering it a recall.
It’s the cluster that has to get replaced. A device that charges the battery & alternator to get power so the car can run. The cost is $2,000.00 it’s going to take about 2-3 weeks to order send it out to get programmed to the car exact mileage, then installed. I took my car to Firestone and they kept my car on the computer until the same thing happened. That’s how they figured out what was causing the car to lose power. The tech stayed in contact with Nissan concerning the issue. It’s a lot, but I’m happy they figured it out. And this is not covered under the warranty either.[/QUOTE]
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Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 40
Update on my 2016 Maxima with 47k miles....the lack of acceleration issue has FINALLY been resolved ( after 2 months)...Brake Light Relay. Some stupid part that probably costs nothing had caused all this frustration. I still don't know why the FEB went off 2x or why the predictive collision alert went off....all I know if there are any more problems or these go off again, I'm getting rid of this car. I no longer like driving this car so hubby is now driving it.
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Joined: Nov 2021
Posts: 2
Really??? So no more issues after changing the brake light relay?? No losing power or anything?
[I am still dealing with it but what I did figure out is that when I turned the air conditioner off, it did not happen. It ran for 3 hours one night in my drive way with nothing happening. Then the next day, I drove it 3.5 hours to my hometown with BO air conditioner and it did not do it. I have my hometown mechanic trying to troubleshoot that now. So frustrating!!
QUOTE=Pamb;9242610]Update on my 2016
Maxima with 47k miles....the lack of acceleration issue has FINALLY been resolved ( after 2 months)...Brake Light Relay. Some stupid part that probably costs nothing had caused all this frustration. I still don't know why the FEB went off 2x or why the predictive collision alert went off....all I know if there are any more problems or these go off again, I'm getting rid of this car. I no longer like driving this car so hubby is now driving it.[/QUOTE]
[I am still dealing with it but what I did figure out is that when I turned the air conditioner off, it did not happen. It ran for 3 hours one night in my drive way with nothing happening. Then the next day, I drove it 3.5 hours to my hometown with BO air conditioner and it did not do it. I have my hometown mechanic trying to troubleshoot that now. So frustrating!!
QUOTE=Pamb;9242610]Update on my 2016
Maxima with 47k miles....the lack of acceleration issue has FINALLY been resolved ( after 2 months)...Brake Light Relay. Some stupid part that probably costs nothing had caused all this frustration. I still don't know why the FEB went off 2x or why the predictive collision alert went off....all I know if there are any more problems or these go off again, I'm getting rid of this car. I no longer like driving this car so hubby is now driving it.[/QUOTE]
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2021
Posts: 40
Really??? So no more issues after changing the brake light relay?? No losing power or anything?
[I am still dealing with it but what I did figure out is that when I turned the air conditioner off, it did not happen. It ran for 3 hours one night in my drive way with nothing happening. Then the next day, I drove it 3.5 hours to my hometown with BO air conditioner and it did not do it. I have my hometown mechanic trying to troubleshoot that now. So frustrating!!
QUOTE=Pamb;9242610]Update on my 2016
Maxima with 47k miles....the lack of acceleration issue has FINALLY been resolved ( after 2 months)...Brake Light Relay. Some stupid part that probably costs nothing had caused all this frustration. I still don't know why the FEB went off 2x or why the predictive collision alert went off....all I know if there are any more problems or these go off again, I'm getting rid of this car. I no longer like driving this car so hubby is now driving it.
[I am still dealing with it but what I did figure out is that when I turned the air conditioner off, it did not happen. It ran for 3 hours one night in my drive way with nothing happening. Then the next day, I drove it 3.5 hours to my hometown with BO air conditioner and it did not do it. I have my hometown mechanic trying to troubleshoot that now. So frustrating!!
QUOTE=Pamb;9242610]Update on my 2016
Maxima with 47k miles....the lack of acceleration issue has FINALLY been resolved ( after 2 months)...Brake Light Relay. Some stupid part that probably costs nothing had caused all this frustration. I still don't know why the FEB went off 2x or why the predictive collision alert went off....all I know if there are any more problems or these go off again, I'm getting rid of this car. I no longer like driving this car so hubby is now driving it.
Yes and no. Had issues with the rpms going up to 2000 while sitting at an idle! The rpms did "hiccups" for a bit ( you could see the needle bounce). And still a couple of incorrect predictive collision alerts going off. But the main issue of the lack of acceleration seems to be fixed.
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Joined: Dec 2021
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Much needed help!
Hi I'm new to the site in terms of posting but have always came on here for info on my Maximas in the past. I have a 2016 SR and today I experienced the same exact issue as everyone else on this thread and had my engine shutoff on me while driving.
My dash lights were still on like I had just pushed the button. The battery light and check engine light were the only light symbols that were on. I was able to coast toy he shoulder and then try turning it on again. It kind of sputtered and choked and then about 5 seconds later it resumed and turned on and I was able to drive.
Earlier this morning when driving in to work, The slip indicator light and Forward Emergency Braking system light turned on and stayed on till I got to work. The next time I drove my car at lunch was when the issue of my car shutting off happened.
For the people who have been dealing with this, have they had the exact same or similar symptoms? I also noticed on my way home that the car idles up to 2000rpm and goes back down. You can feel it shaking a bit when it does that.
what was your fix to your issue? I know one member said they had to have the cluster replaced for $2000. Was there any other clear solutions that someone could share? I'd appreciate anything anyone can provide to me. I'm a little scared to drive or have my kids with me cause of this.
My dash lights were still on like I had just pushed the button. The battery light and check engine light were the only light symbols that were on. I was able to coast toy he shoulder and then try turning it on again. It kind of sputtered and choked and then about 5 seconds later it resumed and turned on and I was able to drive.
Earlier this morning when driving in to work, The slip indicator light and Forward Emergency Braking system light turned on and stayed on till I got to work. The next time I drove my car at lunch was when the issue of my car shutting off happened.
For the people who have been dealing with this, have they had the exact same or similar symptoms? I also noticed on my way home that the car idles up to 2000rpm and goes back down. You can feel it shaking a bit when it does that.
what was your fix to your issue? I know one member said they had to have the cluster replaced for $2000. Was there any other clear solutions that someone could share? I'd appreciate anything anyone can provide to me. I'm a little scared to drive or have my kids with me cause of this.
Last edited by HCP23; Dec 9, 2021 at 09:43 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2022
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I am lucky in that, should this happen to me, I simply swap cars with the mechanic at my dealer and drive one of their loaner cars and let their mechanic drive my car as his daily driver until the engine cutoff happens. At that point, you have everything you need to pass the lemon law restrictions unless they can fix it fairly quickly.
Of course this option would not be available to me if I did not have a 22 year relationship with my dealer, and am personal friends with the Service Manager and the lead mechanic.
Your situation is particularly dangerous, because the engine cutting off makes the car almost impossible to steer (no power steering), and greatly reduces the capability of the brakes (no power brakes) to stop the car. Having done nothing wrong on your part, you are essentially an accident waiting to happen. Please try to keep a safe distance between you and whatever is in front of you, keep your seat belt on, and record the date, time, and what the dealer said for each of your trips to the dealer and especially what was said for each of your calls to Nissan.
This last thing may take more time than you can spare, but it is your civic duty to report this very serious problem to government safety agencies. If this problem is reported by several folks, an investigation will be started. Additionally, this contact with the government will help bolster your claim if legal action is required.
I will add that I do not recall seeing anyone else here on maxima.org with this problem. It almost has to be some fluke like a wire rubbing against sharp metal and shorting out in certain situations. This can be very difficult to nail down. Please let us know whatever you do and what response you get in dealing with this problem.
Of course this option would not be available to me if I did not have a 22 year relationship with my dealer, and am personal friends with the Service Manager and the lead mechanic.
Your situation is particularly dangerous, because the engine cutting off makes the car almost impossible to steer (no power steering), and greatly reduces the capability of the brakes (no power brakes) to stop the car. Having done nothing wrong on your part, you are essentially an accident waiting to happen. Please try to keep a safe distance between you and whatever is in front of you, keep your seat belt on, and record the date, time, and what the dealer said for each of your trips to the dealer and especially what was said for each of your calls to Nissan.
This last thing may take more time than you can spare, but it is your civic duty to report this very serious problem to government safety agencies. If this problem is reported by several folks, an investigation will be started. Additionally, this contact with the government will help bolster your claim if legal action is required.
I will add that I do not recall seeing anyone else here on maxima.org with this problem. It almost has to be some fluke like a wire rubbing against sharp metal and shorting out in certain situations. This can be very difficult to nail down. Please let us know whatever you do and what response you get in dealing with this problem.
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Joined: Mar 2022
Posts: 22
I had the same symptoms with my SL. My problem ended up being the IPDM. No more stalls, crazy codes, etc. I have been driving fine for almost 2 weeks now. Discovered this after changing the battery, alternator (which kept burning out so replaced a total of 3 alternators), and sensors due to codes, that never needed to be replaced although the codes said they needed to be changed.
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Hey guys, haven't posted here in awhile. I leased a 2012 maxima special edition grey with the matching gun metal wheels and I loved it so much I decided to lease the 2016 Max last January. Ive had it about 17 months now, starting in July 2016 the car would randomly shut off, lose power steering and the breaks went hard. This happened while accelerating to merge onto highway at around 50-55mph. Luckily I managed to pull off to the shoulder with the engine off and now power steering narrowly escaped getting rear ended. Thought it was a one time fluke thing since there was no check engine light.
Fast forward to October 2016, the same issue happened again 4 times in one week, again same conditions. Accelerating merging onto highway around 50-55 mph, and again no CEL. I narrowly escaped getting into an accident every time. I took the car to the dealer I leased it from and they could not duplicate the problems, but did diagnostic and performed multiple services and replaced multiple parts.
The invoice says they performed a belt inspection, removed and replaced valve body, and also "performed calibration". One of the codes they found in diagnostic was "Code P17F1". Other parts they replaced was Valve Assembly, Seal Lip, Strainer Assembly, a "Clip", a bracket, and something called NS-3 CVT Transmission. The service manager said this should solve the problem. Clearly he was wrong,
I picked up car after this service and boom a few days later same thing happens again in the same conditions. So I no longer feel safe driving the car, called Nissan and started a claim saying I no longer felt safe driving the car and I said fix it or buy back the car (lease). They said since they could not duplicate the problem they cant do anything, case closed. My argument was how can someone duplicate a problem that happens randomly where theres no rhyme or rhythm to when and how it happens.
Fast forward to a few days ago, car did the same thing under the same conditions, narrowly escaped being hit by a tahoe this time. I called nissan again and started a new case, this time I escalated to a supervisor and explained to them the situation, they already had notes of prior issue. Bringing in car this Monday to the dealer again to see if they can duplicate the problem, which is unlikely since it happens so randomly. I dont want this car anymore, clearly its a lemon. But the supervisor said if they cant duplicate the problem they cannot buy back or replace the car which is BS.
I DO NOT feel safe driving this car anymore, I have 2 years left on the lease and God knows how many more times this is going to happen, its a numbers game. At some point this will cause an accident and might hurt or kill me or someone else.
Anyone have any suggestions? I know this is a long read but I really need your guys help.
Fast forward to October 2016, the same issue happened again 4 times in one week, again same conditions. Accelerating merging onto highway around 50-55 mph, and again no CEL. I narrowly escaped getting into an accident every time. I took the car to the dealer I leased it from and they could not duplicate the problems, but did diagnostic and performed multiple services and replaced multiple parts.
The invoice says they performed a belt inspection, removed and replaced valve body, and also "performed calibration". One of the codes they found in diagnostic was "Code P17F1". Other parts they replaced was Valve Assembly, Seal Lip, Strainer Assembly, a "Clip", a bracket, and something called NS-3 CVT Transmission. The service manager said this should solve the problem. Clearly he was wrong,
I picked up car after this service and boom a few days later same thing happens again in the same conditions. So I no longer feel safe driving the car, called Nissan and started a claim saying I no longer felt safe driving the car and I said fix it or buy back the car (lease). They said since they could not duplicate the problem they cant do anything, case closed. My argument was how can someone duplicate a problem that happens randomly where theres no rhyme or rhythm to when and how it happens.
Fast forward to a few days ago, car did the same thing under the same conditions, narrowly escaped being hit by a tahoe this time. I called nissan again and started a new case, this time I escalated to a supervisor and explained to them the situation, they already had notes of prior issue. Bringing in car this Monday to the dealer again to see if they can duplicate the problem, which is unlikely since it happens so randomly. I dont want this car anymore, clearly its a lemon. But the supervisor said if they cant duplicate the problem they cannot buy back or replace the car which is BS.
I DO NOT feel safe driving this car anymore, I have 2 years left on the lease and God knows how many more times this is going to happen, its a numbers game. At some point this will cause an accident and might hurt or kill me or someone else.
Anyone have any suggestions? I know this is a long read but I really need your guys help.
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Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1
I am having the exact same issue with my 2016 Nissan maxima SL. I have replace the battery and the alternator and it’s still losing power. I’ve had a electrical and a full diagnostic done on my car all they can see is the car does lose power while driving, when they looked at the car computer history. The dealership & Firestone is unable to duplicate the issue. NEED SOME TYPE OF HELP WITH THIS ISSUE
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I've been having this same issue of my 2016 Nissan Maxima Platinum randomly losing power mid-drive for about 6 months now. My alternator has been replaced twice - that didn't work. They also tried depinning my IPDM - that didn't work.
If anyone has any recommendations or is able to find a solution, please let me know.
I'd feel awful just selling the lemon and passing it on to another poor soul.
If anyone has any recommendations or is able to find a solution, please let me know.
I'd feel awful just selling the lemon and passing it on to another poor soul.
Last edited by DFR; Mar 22, 2023 at 11:46 AM.
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