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I got me a new Snap on scanners, so i can make some changes on my ecu. So i did a full scan on my car it scan everything including radio lol , my surprised i got a p17f1 judder code on my tranny thats not good am calling the dealer tomorrow, but the crazy part is the my tranny fells fine with no issues i use my paddles shifter all the my i drive my car like a sports car and i don’t get any judder.
Yes , was not happy went i found that page online, will my new scanner can check every sensor,computer and electronic piece on the car. I got this scanner because i can change settings on the ecu like idle i like to set my at 900 on summer and timing advance with i have 2 +, top speed set at 160 and full throttle. Just can’t tune but am doing better then other tuner because they cant not offer those changes yet Upreve and bull dog.
Thanks for linking to my site. I should buy one of those devices to connect to my computer. Just curious to see if any codes are being thrown in general.
Yes , was not happy went i found that page online, will my new scanner can check every sensor,computer and electronic piece on the car. I got this scanner because i can change settings on the ecu like idle i like to set my at 900 on summer and timing advance with i have 2 +, top speed set at 160 and full throttle. Just can’t tune but am doing better then other tuner because they cant not offer those changes yet Upreve and bull dog.
With those settings on do you notice a difference in performance?
I wrote something in English then translated to Spanish. I said I had the code and they either swap the valve body for this or replace the transmission. They replaced my transmission.
Last edited by kasdepwel; Apr 28, 2020 at 05:59 AM.
I think there’s only one that read the transmission codes. You’d’ll need an Android phone and cvtz50 app and a obd Bluetooth adapter.
REALLY FML! on top of that i dont have in Android smh..well my girl has one but still, mite just take the chances and pray the CVT holds up with no problems.
following. the dealer slapped my face with both codes... said, "we need to replace."
My dealer had to open the transmission and and check if there was any scars on the sheaves faces. If there's marks on the sheaves, they replace the transmission and if there's none, they replace the valve body. That's what they said. However when they opened the valve body to check, there was a lot metal shaving in the fluid, so they replaced my transmission.
REALLY FML! on top of that i dont have in Android smh..well my girl has one but still, mite just take the chances and pray the CVT holds up with no problems.
Me neither, bud i was able to check the codes with my chromebook. If you're still warrantied you should have a look, a transmission change here cost at least 7k.
Me neither, bud i was able to check the codes with my chromebook. If you're still warrantied you should have a look, a transmission change here cost at least 7k.
It's a known issue that may get fixed by mfr even if you are past 60K. Good luck
Me neither, bud i was able to check the codes with my chromebook. If you're still warrantied you should have a look, a transmission change here cost at least 7k.
well i actually took it to the dealer @40k for CVT drain and fill and they didn't say anything about my trans. so is it safe to say that the trans is still good? if they didn't tell me anything was wrong when they finished the job.
well i actually took it to the dealer @40k for CVT drain and fill and they didn't say anything about my trans. so is it safe to say that the trans is still good? if they didn't tell me anything was wrong when they finished the job.
I don’t know. I had a very slight judder that I complained about. They did a software update and with the update the code came.
im running iOS and RepairSol2 with a 50 dollar scanner and have access to transmission codes and everything else actually really happy with the scanner for my screenshots I stopped mid-scan that’s why there’s so much red Scannable systems pt 1 Scannable systems pt 2 My current trans code Special functions feature
Originally Posted by kasdepwel
I think there’s only one that read the transmission codes. You’d’ll need an Android phone and cvtz50 app and a obd Bluetooth adapter.
My 2016 Nissan Maxima SV, 101k miles. Bought it at 69k miles. Oil change done every 3-5k miles. Transmission svc done at 69k and 100k. Only drive about 7500k miles a year. No check engine lights on.
So the 2 times when my car starts giving me problems most often is when.. I’m either coming to a sudden stop or deceleration.. or while parking or leaving a parking stall, when I’m reversing my car and about to slow down to shift into neutral and than drive.
That’s when my car will sometimes kick, and the rpms drop than go back up. Than as I’m driving my acceleration is super halted, like I’m driving a Sentra with an acceleration problem as opposed to a 300hp car.
I suspect that means my car is in limp mode, but I’m still eventually able to get up to 5000 rpm and 80mph up the hill, while at half throttle, and my ac does still work and doesn’t shut off.. so than maybe it’s not limp mode.
The problem is at intersections, accelerating onto the main highway, and going from 20-40 it’s super hard, almost like I’m in 3rd gear the whole time, (which makes me feel like it’s in limp mode)
Only code showing is p17f1 CVT judder. However I feel no judder when I’m driving, only sometimes when revving slowly to show someone.. p17f1- Inspect CVT, check valve body.
The trans tech shop did that, found some shavings, drained/replaced fluid, replaced both filters, reprogrammed software. They said there was a dent in my transmission pan that was making it press up against a filter causing it to have insufficient flow of fluid. They supposedly fixed that.
Note, I have 101k miles, muffler delete, I have a K&N intake I haven’t cleaned in 4 years, the battery, alternator tested 100%. Im thinking things like dirty MAF, clogged cat, fuel injectors or filters, fuel pump, maybe even spark plugs, oxygen sensors, Idle air control valve, variable valve timing solenoid, throttle position sensor, cam or crankshaft sensor..
BUT. I don’t know, because only that one code shows on the autozone scanner. Maybe a better one will show other stuff, but everything i mentioned I see on other people’s report when I run diagnostics on their vehicle.
Some days my car doesn’t do it at all, some days it does it multiple times. If I turn the car off for anywhere from 20-60 seconds it starts right up with no problem and makes it run normal again, sometimes only until my next major deceleration, or most times I can get all the way home or to work with no problems. I usually only drive my car for 7-8 miles at a time to and from work.. 16 miles weekday mornings before work, sometimes my car does it sometimes it doesn’t.
It’s been doing this since June 22, since summer. Sometimes I feel it was to do with the hot weather or temperature, but when I work closing shift at night and reverse my car after work sometimes it doesn’t it, also in the morning where I live it’s cold, sometimes it does it as well.. my car doesn’t not have a heat shield anymore, it was too much to replace. My AC being on seems to help it NOT do it as much or often which is weird. Idk, any ideas on where to start?
I want to sell my car before it gets worse, but I don’t want to sell it if it’s something I can fix fairly cheap and easy.. however I don’t have money to go off and buy everything on a check list of sensors either.
