DK SPL Audio

16 Maxima Platinum, 79,000 miles. I pulled all the past records and do not see any CVT fluid changes, I had Nissan check the fluid and they said it is in good condition. I figure I might as well do a fluid change anyways. I'm planning on using Amsoil CVT fluid.

Has anyone used a fluid pump from the dipstick tube to change the fluid? Just put in as much as you take out, should be pretty easy if this is an acceptable way to do it. What about the filter? I cannot find any information on the filter of the 8th gen. The 7th gen looked really easy to change, just a canister style.

Thanks

NisCal17

please stop everything you intended to do.

Fishlet

I think the manual says 60k, but I want mine serviced before that. I thought the Nissan CVT was a sealed unit, not sure if there is a way to drain that yourself without special equipment

Are all those miles yours or did you buy it used? I suppose you should base your decision on how aggressively you drove it. Sounds like it must have been pretty reliable if you haven't had to deal with it yet

Richard66

+1 on that.

DK SPL Audio

I just got the vehicle a few weeks ago. I did bring it to Nissan to have them look at the fluid, they just told me it looks good...did not give me any deterioration numbers.

Why is it not an acceptable procedure? Is there a filter?

Thanks for the information.

lionel2013

Have you ever heard the expression "leave good enough alone"? If Nissan says it looks OK, why do you intend to do this?

FLGulf

I don't think it's an issue with the specific procedure you outlined, it's more an issue of "if it's not broken, don't fix it." You never know what could go wrong. For example, you could stir up particles that you can't fully remove which would otherwise not be a problem if left alone.

DK SPL Audio

My intention was just to try and stay on top of this. I've read neglecting CVT routine maintenance is one of the biggest mistakes an owner can make. I pulled all the records from the Nissan dealerships that serviced the vehicle prior to my ownership and I do not see it as being done. I guess I can leave it be but them only telling me it looks fine doesn't give me a while lot to go on.

Thanks

robtroxel

For piece of mind, I'd go ahead and have the CVT serviced at 79000 miles . You're obviously in this car for the long haul and you just don't know how the car was treated before it was yours. Best to let Nissan do the deed so they can look at the fluid as it drains for any problems just in case. What I don't know is if there are any CVT filters . Cheap insurance to change this too if it exists.

catchme

Do not use ANYTHING other than the Nissan NS3 CVT fluid. It is very sensitive to CVT type and the Nissan fluid is specifically designed for this... It is a sealed unit. There is no dipstick.

DK SPL Audio

Right, there is a dipstick tube but it has just a cap.
I read really good test results from Amsoil CVT fluid, wonder how it does against NS-3? NS-2 results below:

AMSOIL lab testing also reveals AMSOIL CVT Fluid met, and in some cases surpassed, the protection and performance of Nissan NS-2 CVT Fluid:

• In FZG wear testing (ASTM D5182), Nissan NS-2 achieved a 7 stage pass, while AMSOIL CVT Fluid significantly surpassed it with an 11 stage pass.
• In the JASO LVFA Anti-Shudder Durability Test, AMSOIL CVT Fluid lasted six times longer, translating into improved anti-shudder durability and reduced noise, vibration and harshness.

robtroxel

You are to be commended for your reseach however, don't let outstanding get in the way of very good. Nissan knows what will work well and the latest fluid from them ensures the best chance for longevity. Why experiment?

DK SPL Audio

Point taken

Well, I will leave it be for now since Nissan told me it "looked good". Get it checked in another 10k?

me9798

As a Mechanical Engineer and owner of a '16 MAX SV, I feel compelled to tell you that you MUST change this fluid. I had the dealer do mine @60K miles (I have 64K now). It costed me $250.00. The CVT is the only weak link on this car; you MUST maintain it (the friction modifiers in the Nissan CVT fluid break down over time). There is no such thing as a "secret lifetime fluid"; unless you want to junk your car at 100K miles. (Also, forget about deterioration numbers from the dealer-level scan tool, just get it done).

robtroxel

Wholeheatedly agree! Don't wait!

Mason Hatcher

In what field are you a mechanical engineer?

gizzsdad

I personally know of at least 10 Maxima/Altima/Murano owners that have WELL in excess of 150K (one with 230K) on their cars with original CVT fluid. My service manager knows of hundreds.

I put 80K+ on my 2010 Max with original fluid.

That being said, I did change my '16 fluid at about 50K last fall, just for the peace of mind. The service manger insisted I was wasting my money, and I noticed no change in operation or performance.

I think your "junk your car at 100K" comment is a little over the top.

surban1

iTrader: (17)

I bit of hyperbole on his part but more correct than incorrect. Nissan's 2015 cvt special edition of techtalk (Nissan's magazine for their techs) advises to change the cvt fluid at 60k or if deterioration # is over 210k and to change every 30k if towing or driving on rough / muddy roads. no car fluid is forever and it is abundantly prudent to change the cvt fluid at least every 60k. plenty of cvt's will last a hundred or two hundred thousand miles not changing it but many more will unnecessarily suffer premature failure due to worn out / used up / contaminated /etc fluid that was never replaced or wasn't replaced in a timely fashion. to each his own, but I changed mine with filter at 30k and change both thereafter every 45k. it cost me ~$200 to do a complete fluid exchange with filter. extrapolated out, that gets me to 200k+ for $800; well worth it to me. just like putting 91 octane is worth it to me in order to get maximum engine responsiveness.

drakutis

I had my 2009 7th Gen from brand new, up until traded it in 2017 for my current 8th Gen. My 7th Gen had 119k when I traded and I never had the CVT fluid changed. Matter of fact, I asked my service manager about changing it, and he said not to do it, because he's gotten complaints from people who have had it changed that they lost power afterwards. I never had a CVT issue with that car and I believe in the functionality of the CVT if you don't drive it hard and abuse it. I'm at 37k on my 8th gen and recently had an oil change and the CVT fluid is fine, so I won't bother with it. You can't fix something that's not broken.

me9798

I'm in the Workholding Industry. I design tooling.

me9798

Do you have to do it? Of course not. Do the additives in the CVT fluid degrade over time and pick up contamination? Yes. Can this accelerate CVT belt slippage? Yes. One slip of that belt within its sheaves is all it takes to accelerate the transmission's failure. Newer fluid in the transmission can prevent this be re-establishing the level of friction between the belt and its sheaves; no other type of transmission on the consumer market today is as sensitive to fluid composition and its condition as a CVT. Will it happen to you? Pray it doesn't since they cast thousands to replace. Why did you do it for "peace of mind" if everyone convinced you otherwise?

Lemonhawk

So the Nissan dealers are telling you not to change the fluid, even when you want to, their by giving up easy money? There must be more to this story or the dealer wound be pushing a 60k transmission oil change.

robtroxel

With your logic I get the message you don't do anything till it breaks! Surely some preventative maintenece would be a much cheaper option. Obviously you are driving your cars with respect to get that long service

drakutis

Actually, I'm very up on my maintenance, especially oil changes. But I won't pour my money into RECOMMENDED services. If something is major and it needs my attention, then I will deal with it. My 7th gen had no major issues mechanically except for the lower control arms that needed replacing later in the life span and a dead alternator and a new battery. Other things stopped working over time, but those items (like the power steering column, front speaker, power drivers seat, tilt mirrors) you can't perform preventive maintenance on, since they'll just stop working. As long as I have no issues with the engine and the transmission, the other items I can live with not working.

robtroxel

We have drifted from the OPs original question a bit. For the second owner of a car like this, it is important to follow the interval recommendations which does call for a CVT fluid change @ 60,000 miles. What we don't know is how the first owner drove the car like a boy racer. $200 bucks for a CVT fluid change seems like preventative maintenece to me and great piece of mind. At the end of the day, the service writer, does not underwrite any repair costs whether he is right or wrong with his advice...you do!

Mjscott22

Yeah, cause that is helpful...

there is a drain in plug on the bottom of the CVT that is removable with an Allen wrench I believe. I think the proper process is to pump in at the top of the CVT but I’m not sure if that hole is the dipstick hold or another one. Process is to fill it up until it starts coming out of the hole, similar to a rear differential change

realmac

My 2016 Maxima has 48k miles on the CVT, fluid flushed on Saturday. Was $249.95 less a $20 coupon. The subtle jerk / slipping feel in stop and go traffic has essentially been eliminated. Dealt with it a whole year and the dealer said it was "normal". Last year I got a brand new 2018 Maxima SR loaner and the transmission was a lot smoother than my '16. Post fluid change it feels the same. This leads me to believe 60k is too long of a wait to replace the fluid. 30-45k is the sweet spot, or as soon as you notice the smooth feeling is gone. Is it an added expense, but I'd rather do it now and have a fighting chance of this transmission making it to 150k+

robtroxel

Bravo! Every CVT does not live the same life and you are right to go for the CVT fluid / filter change! Mileage as the interval for this is not the best brenchmark, especially if the car is made to work harder like mountain driving, towing, fast starts, etc. Regardless your outcome speaks for itself.

DK SPL Audio

Thanks for the replies, just surprises me no one is attempting this maintenance item themselves. I still have not found if there is a replaceable filter on the 8th gen (I know there was an inline on earlier gens). Seems if I could just use a hand pump and take out say X quarts, put X quarts back through the dipstick, it would be so easy. I found a thread that a Nissan tech replied to explaining how to get the fluid to the correct level. You have to shift through everything to get fluid in all the passages, get the temp to an exact figure (wanna say 113°) then open an overflow plug on the side of the CVT and let the extra fluid drain out. This method probably would not be accurate on ramps due to not being level.

lionel2013

<<Thanks for the replies, just surprises me no one is attempting this maintenance item themselves.>>

I am not a car mechanic or an automotive engineer, but for as long as I have owned a car I kept hearing that a car's transmission - any transmission, standard automatic or CVT - is a complicated, "delicate" and expensive piece of equipment. And that, as such, if you are not a mechanic or an automotive engineer, you really should not attempt any DYI maintenance or repairs because if you mess it up, it's going to cost you. That includes replacing all of the transmission fluid. This is what we are talking about, not replacing the motor oil.

That, I believe, is the reason why no one (or very few) are attempting this maintenance themselves.

surban1

iTrader: (17)

try part# 31726-28X0A; ~ $15. it's not as easy as the inline/external one was as this one is internal in a housing, but still just a couple-few bolts. get the o-ring too; not sure of the part# of that. it's easy to replace the fluid and I suspect that lots of owners are doin' it.

BlakMaxiJoey

i don't remember commenting on this thread, but i changed mine around @120k miles (together with brake fluid). maybe because it is 90% highway. but, i think, that the recommended change interval would be if the car is driven mostly in the city, or a lot of stop-and-go traffic. that's just me.

dcnblues

Full synthetic? I'm a pretty big fan of full synthetic when you are talking about secret lifetime fluid. If it doesn't void the warranty, I'd feel better with full synthetic in the CVT. I just bought a used rental and want new fluid in it and a new filter (even if it only has 22 Grand on it). Maybe even have them pull the pan and clean it.

compyelc4

Most, if not all, CVT fluid in use today is synthetic.

dcnblues

But not Nissan NS3 CVT, right?

So I've lost track. I have a used 2018 Maxima with 22,000, but it used to be a rental and I want new CVT oil + filter for peace of mind. And I'm a big fan of full synthetic (just feeling with my hand the difference in my running motorcycle engine converted me). Will a low viscosity full synthetic oil void warranty?

robtroxel

Keep us posted on how your car performs since it was a rental before. As stated earlier, I'd do everything to the car >>engine oil/filer, Cv Fluid change, Brake Fluid change, cabin filter change as well as the air filter. Consider checking the brake pads and examine the wheels for heavy curb rash. Also, go for a 4 wheel alignment. The main issue with rental cars is the volume of drivers who just don't care how they drive the car. The Maxima is a though car though. Let's hope it gives you great service for a bargain price.

RickSmith

Here is a list of Nissan parts used to change the CVT NS-3 fluid, filter and strainer on my 2016 Maxima. All parts were purchased at my local Nissan dealer.
Could I have saved a couple of bucks by ordering on line? Quite possibly, but it was easier picking everything up in one trip to the dealer.

31397-1XF0D Gasket-oil pan 1 each
31726-28X0A Filter Assembly-Oil Governor 1 each
31526-3VX0A Seal-O ring Filter cover seal 1 each
31728-29X0D Strainer assembly Oil Trans filter 1 each
11026-JA00A Washer-drain 1 each
Nissan CVT NS-3 Fluid 6 quarts

I bought 6 quarts of Nissan NS-3 CVT fluid, and used approx. 4.5 quarts to refill.

Under the hood, remove the CVT filler cap. You will see it is a little tricky to remove. You have to release a small tab holding it in place. Don't get frustrated, you will figure it out. Hey...if I can figure it out, so can you.

Save yourself some grief and aggravation by purchasing some of these push-pin retainers ahead of time, as you will break one or more of these during this job. Guaranteed. Cross my heart and hope to die. Seriously, these little guys will break. This is a set I purchased from Amazon... Most auto parts stores have some assortment, but these are really handy, and I'm glad I bought this set.

The hardest part of the job is removing the plastic tray under the front of the car, push pin clips and phillips screws hold it on. Once that part is completed, the job is easy.. I used clean plastic 1 gallon milk jugs to drain the CVT fluid into...you will need 2 clean jugs to complete this task.

There is a drain plug on the bottom of the CVT pan, which has the same copper crush washer used on the oil drain plug...meaning it is hard to remove the crushed washer after you take off the drain plug. Make sure to use a new crush washer, as they have a list price of $0.32 each. You can afford it. Really.

After draining the fluid by taking the bolt out, reinstall the drain bolt...you don't have to fully tighten it... as now you will start taking out what seems like hundreds of bolts to take the CVT pan off. Try not to spill the fluid still in the pan...I drained it into a clean 1 gallon plastic milk jug using a large funnel.

The CVT pan gasket is metal, and is easily removed. Remove the bolts in the strainer assembly, and notice where a sensor attaches. Make sure the O-ring is removed with old gasket, as the new strainer comes with a new O-ring.

Let things drip for a short time, and install the new strainer by pushing...SOFTLY...into place. Make sure the O-ring gasket is in place. Your 1 gallon plastic milk jug may be full, so have the second clean jug handy.

Remove the three magnets from the CVT pan and clean them and the pan. Old rags and spray Brake Cleaner works wonders here. Reinstall the clean magnets in the same location in the pan. Re-install the pan by putting a few bolts in the corners, don't snug the bolts yet.

Now find the Filter Assembly, which is on the side of the CVT facing the engine, not facing the brake rotor. You will see a round housing with 3 visible bolts, the 4th is on top and can not be seen. It has to be removed and re-installed by feel. Remove the bolts, and have the drain jug handy as fluid drains out when you loosen the housing.

Remove the small round filter, making sure the innermost gasket is removed. Install the new filter, remove the Seal-O ring, and replace with new one. Do not over tighten the 4 bolts on the filter housing.

Install remaining bolts in CVT pan, again not over tightening the bolts.

Check to make sure that you have no bolts left over, and tighten the CVT pan drain bolt. Again, don't gorilla tighten it.

I carefully measured how much fluid came out, and it was 4 1/2 quarts. That is what I put in using a clean funnel thru the CVT opening under the hood. Re-install the cap, and it will 'click' into place.

Start the car and check for leaks. If no leaks, re-install the plastic pan, and tell yourself how smart you were for buying an assortment of push-pins, as you broke a few when you took them out...don't lie, I know you broke or lost some. Be honest... Pro Tip...do not pat your self on the back, as your hands are greasy. Verbal compliments are sufficient.

When you jack up your car to start this job, use quality jack stands. Safety first. No need for your coworkers and relatives to have a memorial service for you because the car fell on you.

My car is a 2016 with just shy of 40,000 miles. The magnets had the usual grey slime on them, and looking closely at the screen on the Strainer Assembly, some crud was visible. The fluid was darker than what went back in, but did not smell bad.

I am an older guy, who does not hot rod the car. Does this need to be done at 40,000 miles? I doubt it but I feel better for doing it. I would say for the average car/driver, 60,000 miles would be a good number.

I have not driven the car enough to see if there is any improvement, as I was not noticing as problem before I did this.

Was it worth the $200.00 in parts to do this?

It was to me. Your results may vary.

denoose

Great write up...

compyelc4

Very thorough write up Rick Smith. And to think, you did this without referring to your owners manual :-) oh, and I appreciated your humor throughout. It was so nice of you to go to the trouble to document all that you did. This is one of the reasons that this site is so valuable to me and probably others. Based on your write up, I will certainly perform the same procedure when it comes time to do my 17. And honest to Pete, I have removed those pins many times replacing oil and filter and I have never broken or lost one. Honest injun. Can I say that now?