Does anyone have an idea as to why all of the sudden I have 3 codes on my 2016 Maxima? Everything was working fine until I installed an amplifier... I have a Maxima S with no Bose system. I've done this before and it's not rocket science. After I meticulously installed everything and checked all of my handy work, the car started up fine, the stereo and amp work perfect (no engine noise). The first thing I noticed was the Climate Control Module is dead, and will not come on. Then I proceed to turn on the headlights and the cooling fan comes on and the RPM gauge goes to zero. So, I shut the car off, disconnected the battery to see if a reset would help and that's a BIG fat NOPE! 3 codes are stored, U0073, U0100 and U0101. Doesn't make any sense... I went back and checked every plug and connection 3 times and they're still there. Is it possible that the PCM just went bad all of the sudden? Is there a spell on the car now? Help me conjure up something to fix it!!! HELP. Thanks for listening...

 

undo all that crap?

 

My guess is the amp is overpowering the electical system. The factory battery is just adequate without a additional amp you installed. Also check alternator..its is producing enough amps for the additional load?. There was an earlier discussion on this and some folks were going to a Titan Truck alternator for the extra juice it produces. Let us know what you do.

 

Wouldn't that be funny, a bad battery causing these issues? I've been doing some research and it's pointing me towards a bad PCM. Coincidental, maybe? I will check the battery and alternator and let you know. I've done car stereo work since the 80's and cars were much simpler! I appreciate the feedback!

 

U0073 Data Bus Failure

U0100 Lost Communication With ECM/PCM

U0101 Lost Communication with Transmission

If all connections are good it sounds like either power failure or the voltage to the ECM/PCM is less then 12.5 volts

 

We checked all the fuses and they're all good. The alternator is putting out 14 volts. Also, I just noticed 2 other things... Rear backup camera not coming on and the outside temperature doesn't show up. All it says is "- -". I disconnected everything and still not working. So, recap...

Climate Control Module is out
Rear Camera not working
Outside Temp reading not working
AND, still have the codes.

This is why I should have just bit the "proverbial bullet" and paid someone to do it! The mystery continues...

 

You did not mention the wattage rating of the amp you added. What type of Amperage consumption? I' guessing you need at least 120 Amp alternatior for a bigger sound system.

Once you have disconnected your newly added amp, disconnect the battery for 5 minutes to force the car into a reset mode for the main computer. Hope that will help.

 

FINALLY!!! I have lift off! I tried 3 different things.

1st: I disconnected the battery for at least 2 hours while I was going over my work.
2nd: I rerouted the ignition lead for the remote turn on directly to the fusebox (there's a few open spots). I originally tapped off the back of the factory radio harness...
3rd: I put the amp power lead directly at the terminal. There are 2 spots, I did the one that wasn't attached to anything else.

Not sure which one was the culprit, but after doing all of that EVERYTHING WORKS! The climate control, the outside temp gauge, no check engine light (but the engine codes are still there and say "permanent") and the car runs great. An airbag light just popped up, but I'll take what I can get... I'll go to my buddies repair shop and use his scanner to reset it. Other than that, I am back to normal...

I didn't realize how sensitive the newer cars are and how everything talks to each other. A drop in voltage anywhere can affect a lot. I really appreciate everyone's feedback on helping me troubleshoot this beast! Next time, I will come here first for advice.

 

Frusrating for sure and I am sure the battery reset did the trick. Let us know if the light does reset for the SRS airbag

 

Yes, I was able to reset the airbag light. From what I understood by disconnecting the center console multiple times while the car was running, it caused the airbag light to come on. Also, the light was solid red on the cluster, not a blinking light like most of the threads indicated. I tried to do the reset in my driveway but nothing worked. I had to get it reset by my buddy who has a code reader, a really top end one. Once he reset the light, he checked the other codes, NOTHING showed up! So my best guess is after I let the car sat for a few hours with the negative terminal disconnected, it reset everything (except the airbag light) and the codes cleared.

NOTE to self! Don't do it yourself... Let the professionals do it for you. Lol