i have a 95 and the passenger door started bubbling up on the ledge, like 2 inches and is spreading. short of respraying the whole door, i've been reading that you can sand down and re-clear the area. i'm not sure what grit would "gently" sand this area and what to use to sand down w/o scratching other surrounding area. also, where do i get the clear as i've looked and have not seen it in local advanced, auto-zone etc. i want a clear in a can i can brush on so it goes on even and not a spray as i would probably overspray due to the small area. any suggestions and/or help would be appreciated.

 

You can't re-clear an area that's failed. The failing paint needs to be removed, then the door refinished. If its not done right, it will continue to fail under the new finish. You can get automotive paint in rattle cans. Look for an automotive paint supplier in your area. (Auto body supply) Most of them can make rattle cans in base and clear coat.
Google is your friend.

 

Bubbles are most often caused by water accumulating inside the panel. If sanding the bubbles affects the basecoat you'll need to reapply both the basecoat and clearcoat paints.

When I got bubbles forming on my left quarter I first fixed the water accumulation problem occurring in the gas lid. I then dry and wet sanded down to the primer to prevent the virus from returning. Finished up by applying primer, basecoat and clearcoat with my hvlp paint gun. The bubbles only formed in less than 4 square inches but for the new paint to blend in I wetsanded almost half of the quarter.

 

the paint has'nt failed, the clear has. the paint is fine underneath. it's not rust, just the clear is peeling a little.

 

Clear is paint... It's failing, it needs to come off.
The reason it's failing is bad prep work.
DA the door and refinish.

 

Was wondering...did the newer 4th gens (97-99) get better paintwork or something? Or are they just younger? Whenever I see a 4th gen with severe rust issues, its always a 95/96 model.

 

yeah, especially the rear right quarters of the 95's rusted out bad. and the rear's in general on both sides i've seen rust on the 95's. getting back to the clear coat issue, i bought some 2000 grit sanpaper and after i get the surface bubbles sanded down do i spray on or can i brush on, re-sand and brush again? sprayer is preferred i know but i'm not paying a body shop 300.00 to re-spray the door for this.

 

Not trying To thread jack, since we are talking about paint, how do u remove scratches, got 3 Long scratches on my passenger rear door, and several on the trunk mine is a 95 hunter green, and how do i find the color code?

 

sounds like you want to do this on the cheap.
if it's really just clear then sand with 800 and reclear. if you sand into the base then you'll need to respray it. if the base and clear are having issues sticking to each other now they will when you respray. there's no roller/brush on clear in a can. pick up some rattle can clear. sand down the offending area. then scuff the entire door after cleaning and reclear the entire door. make sure the door is clean..use a prep sol or something or else it'll look even worse. also go get a tack cloth and use it before you spray.


color code is usually on the firewall plate or on the door.

run your finger nail over the scratch...how deep is it? if there's a groove in the scratch to the point where your finger nail will get caught into it then the paint is gone and you'll need a repaint. if the scratch is light you can buff it out.

 

Another thing that can cause paint to bubble is waxing too early. The solvents within the basecoat and/ or clearcoat need time to dissolve. You can buff with compound or polish a few days after drying but you'll need to wait longer before applying wax.

Yesterday I wetsanded all 4 doors with 2000 grit. I then applied 3M Cutting Edge compound with a wool pad on a rotary buffer. I followed with Meguairs Swirl X Remover (cleaner and polish) using a foam pad on a DA buffer. They are now smooth as silk with a clear mirror reflection.

I will wait until late November before waxing because the manufacturer of the paints I used recommended 60 to 90 days 'breathing time'.

EDIT:

Friend at an autobody shop corrected me on this. Presta Fast Wax is VOC compliant and can be used on new paint. I baugh 32oz at NAPA for $22 and applied it to my newly painted sections after buffing with compound and swirlX remover. It is very thin and will last only 30 days so I'll apply it a few times. When the paint fully cures in 2 or 3 months I'll apply Meguairs yellow wax M-2616.

 

You're lucky you have an excuse to sand and repaint the whole car. Imagine having a pearl white one that holds up forever.