K-Sport Coilovers Talk
Originally Posted by tkorpus
I do also have a question: What is the purpose of the upper bolt hole of the lower strut mount being slotted as opposed to a fitted hole? Is it actually meant to be used as an asjustment (that would be pretty tuff to do with any amount of accuracy)? It seems like it could possibly be a course adjustment for Camber leaving the adjustment in the upper plate for fine tuning?
Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 72
Originally Posted by steven88
...I heard it's best to tq the bolts furthest away from the hole...
Originally Posted by tkorpus
Do you mean with the bolt closest to the wheel as opposed to the engine? That's what I did. Do you know where I should set the adjustments on the top plates to start with? I have not gotten an alignment yet because I am waiting until they are done setting and I am done adjusting height and preload. I still have the stock wheels and tires so I don't care too much about a little extra wear right now. Once my alignment is done, I have a set of 2005 350Z wheels waiting to go on and I'm planning on buying a set of 245/40/18 tires. Now I just need to decide which tires to get.
In my opinion, just wait until you get an alignment...
i adjusted my k-sports to where the bottom mount is at the very bottom of the shock body and really cannot go any urther down, how can i raise the car somemore cause i am rubbing like crazy in the front.
Originally Posted by ManualMaxima
i adjusted my k-sports to where the bottom mount is at the very bottom of the shock body and really cannot go any urther down, how can i raise the car somemore cause i am rubbing like crazy in the front.
Originally Posted by NOZMaximus
doodfood, how did your warrenty situation with k-sport work out? Just curious? 
Hope everything worked out ok.
Hope everything worked out ok.As mentioned earlier, there was a one week delay because everyone at Autoline (Ksport's retail/customer service reps in the USA) was out at SEMA. I'm still not sure what I think of the fact that they shut down all customer service for a trade show, but I guess that's water under the bridge at this point.
Notwithstanding that, it went fine. I called, I sent pics, and one week after they processed my request they shipped me my replacement parts (new top mount, two new rubber bushings, and a new top nut). Total time was three weeks after the initial request -- one week for SEMA, one week to actually have the new top mount manufactured and sent to them, and one week for shipping. The parts are now in and all is well.
Now that I have the old top mount off, I should take some new pics. It's pretty ugly when you can see it fully.
Call 1-480-829-8100 and order through them. EDIT: or order through Jinsu!
But I guarantee you they're gonna say you should have your shocks re-valved. They say you can go up or down by 2 kg/mm and keep the same shock valving, but going from 9 to 6 is obviously outside that range.
I would think you could easily get away with your current shock valving, but you might not get the full comfort benefit of the softer springs because the shocks might tend to be too firm (even on the softest setting).
But I guarantee you they're gonna say you should have your shocks re-valved. They say you can go up or down by 2 kg/mm and keep the same shock valving, but going from 9 to 6 is obviously outside that range.
I would think you could easily get away with your current shock valving, but you might not get the full comfort benefit of the softer springs because the shocks might tend to be too firm (even on the softest setting).
You can order springs through us. a pair of spring should be $100 shipped.
paypal to jinsupower@gmail.com with the spring rate, and application you want.
paypal to jinsupower@gmail.com with the spring rate, and application you want.
Wow what a freakin mission! I just got done doing my coilover install....took me approximately 6hrs including lots of break inbetween...my hands freakin hurt! no air tools either! 
The rears were a PITA to get off becuz theres no room for a breaker bar down there...argh....but finally everything came off and went on smoothly...then took a long break becuz my back was hurting...then went back to tune the car's ride height...the rears are tucking under the tire....it took me about 2 times of trial & error until I got the rears to an even height....by that time, I became too tired to tune the fronts....but so far, both fronts have 1 finger gap...tomorrow when I have time that bi+ch will be tuckin! Can't wait...
My initial impression of the Ksports will folllow up soon...just letting others know how smooth the installation went...take your time is all I have to say!
The rears were a PITA to get off becuz theres no room for a breaker bar down there...argh....but finally everything came off and went on smoothly...then took a long break becuz my back was hurting...then went back to tune the car's ride height...the rears are tucking under the tire....it took me about 2 times of trial & error until I got the rears to an even height....by that time, I became too tired to tune the fronts....but so far, both fronts have 1 finger gap...tomorrow when I have time that bi+ch will be tuckin! Can't wait...
My initial impression of the Ksports will folllow up soon...just letting others know how smooth the installation went...take your time is all I have to say!
alright so I drove my car tonight just for a quick impression...my steering feels pretty damn loose if u ask me....is this suppose to be normal? For example, the turning of the wheel is now effort-less...almost like no feedback and slides freely...before there was feedback...
also I took it for a spin around a parking lot to check for any low speed clunks/clicks....none so far...but I noticed my tires were squealing? Anytime I took a low mph turn it would sorta give off a small squeal...I'm thinking it has to do with camber or toe-in...like the alignment is off of spec so the tire is being put under more stress and gives off a squeal....
anyway how is the camber adjusted from the top plates? I might need to drive this car another week or two before an alignment...I wanna try bringing the camber back as close as possible...and also to rid that tire squealing!
also I took it for a spin around a parking lot to check for any low speed clunks/clicks....none so far...but I noticed my tires were squealing? Anytime I took a low mph turn it would sorta give off a small squeal...I'm thinking it has to do with camber or toe-in...like the alignment is off of spec so the tire is being put under more stress and gives off a squeal....
anyway how is the camber adjusted from the top plates? I might need to drive this car another week or two before an alignment...I wanna try bringing the camber back as close as possible...and also to rid that tire squealing!
I had the same thing when I first did the install: effortless steering and tire squeal. Your alignment is WAY off, and it's uneven on each side.
You can adjust the camber by loosening the 4 bolts on the camber plate with an Allen wrench, moving the whole strut assembly, and then tightening them when it's all in place (obviously you'll have to jack the front end up first). You can also adjust toe by loosening the nut on the steering linkage closest to where it connects to the spindle and then just twisting the entire rod to move it in and out. Remember that changing one will also affect the other.
But keep in mind, unless you have a way of measuring things (or a REALLY good eye), you won't really be able to tell what kinds of adjustments you have to make. It's gonna be a couple of degrees here and there, which can make a huge difference but is really hard to make out with the naked eye. I'd say you should just get it to an alignment shop ASAP.
You can adjust the camber by loosening the 4 bolts on the camber plate with an Allen wrench, moving the whole strut assembly, and then tightening them when it's all in place (obviously you'll have to jack the front end up first). You can also adjust toe by loosening the nut on the steering linkage closest to where it connects to the spindle and then just twisting the entire rod to move it in and out. Remember that changing one will also affect the other.
But keep in mind, unless you have a way of measuring things (or a REALLY good eye), you won't really be able to tell what kinds of adjustments you have to make. It's gonna be a couple of degrees here and there, which can make a huge difference but is really hard to make out with the naked eye. I'd say you should just get it to an alignment shop ASAP.
Originally Posted by d00df00d
I had the same thing when I first did the install: effortless steering and tire squeal. Your alignment is WAY off, and it's uneven on each side.
You can adjust the camber by loosening the 4 bolts on the camber plate with an Allen wrench, moving the whole strut assembly, and then tightening them when it's all in place (obviously you'll have to jack the front end up first). You can also adjust toe by loosening the nut on the steering linkage closest to where it connects to the spindle and then just twisting the entire rod to move it in and out. Remember that changing one will also affect the other.
But keep in mind, unless you have a way of measuring things (or a REALLY good eye), you won't really be able to tell what kinds of adjustments you have to make. It's gonna be a couple of degrees here and there, which can make a huge difference but is really hard to make out with the naked eye. I'd say you should just get it to an alignment shop ASAP.
You can adjust the camber by loosening the 4 bolts on the camber plate with an Allen wrench, moving the whole strut assembly, and then tightening them when it's all in place (obviously you'll have to jack the front end up first). You can also adjust toe by loosening the nut on the steering linkage closest to where it connects to the spindle and then just twisting the entire rod to move it in and out. Remember that changing one will also affect the other.
But keep in mind, unless you have a way of measuring things (or a REALLY good eye), you won't really be able to tell what kinds of adjustments you have to make. It's gonna be a couple of degrees here and there, which can make a huge difference but is really hard to make out with the naked eye. I'd say you should just get it to an alignment shop ASAP.
Wtf
CRAP!!!!!
My front right strut (passengers side) is covered in oil!!!!!!! I don't know if this means the strut is blown but the ride isn't bad. I only had them for a little less then 6 months and have NOT been riding them hard. I'm also getting a creaking sound when I turn the steering wheel a little. It's the only strut that's leaking, the others are a dry as an 80 year old *****....
My front right strut (passengers side) is covered in oil!!!!!!! I don't know if this means the strut is blown but the ride isn't bad. I only had them for a little less then 6 months and have NOT been riding them hard. I'm also getting a creaking sound when I turn the steering wheel a little. It's the only strut that's leaking, the others are a dry as an 80 year old *****....
Originally Posted by steven88
thanks for the prompt reply dood! umm...so what do you suggest? just fu*k it and deal with the effortless steering and tire squeal until alignment? Or go ahead and try it out for myself...?
alright look...I just got done tuning the fronts...everything is great so far...as far as the camber issue goes...I tried loosening the allen bolts...how do I adjust the camber? I mean I loosened them and it just started to move by itself...do I just grab the tire and start wiggling it till I see it looks straight?
Also what ft-lbs of torque did all of ya'll tighten the front upper hat nut?
Also what ft-lbs of torque did all of ya'll tighten the front upper hat nut?
I found it easier to grab the top of the strut and move it that way.
The only problem with playing with camber is that you have to do it while the car is off the ground, and it'll be hard to predict what you'll end up with once you let the car down. Whatever you do, try to make sure it's even on both sides. Then let the car down and play with your toe settings.
If you find that your handling is really touchy and the car wanders and bump-steers a lot, you probably have toe-out. If your turn-in is really sluggish and you get a lot of understeer, that's toe in. Once you follow the procedure I mentioned a few posts up, you'll see which way to turn the steering rods to correct either problem.
Then get out on the road and drive it. See if it pulls in either direction.
If it pulls right and your handling is a little touchy, your right wheel has toe-out. If it pulls right and your handling is a little sluggish, your left wheel has toe-in. Etc. etc.... you get the idea.
The only problem with playing with camber is that you have to do it while the car is off the ground, and it'll be hard to predict what you'll end up with once you let the car down. Whatever you do, try to make sure it's even on both sides. Then let the car down and play with your toe settings.
If you find that your handling is really touchy and the car wanders and bump-steers a lot, you probably have toe-out. If your turn-in is really sluggish and you get a lot of understeer, that's toe in. Once you follow the procedure I mentioned a few posts up, you'll see which way to turn the steering rods to correct either problem.
Then get out on the road and drive it. See if it pulls in either direction.
If it pulls right and your handling is a little touchy, your right wheel has toe-out. If it pulls right and your handling is a little sluggish, your left wheel has toe-in. Etc. etc.... you get the idea.
Originally Posted by d00df00d
I found it easier to grab the top of the strut and move it that way.
The only problem with playing with camber is that you have to do it while the car is off the ground, and it'll be hard to predict what you'll end up with once you let the car down. Whatever you do, try to make sure it's even on both sides. Then let the car down and play with your toe settings.
If you find that your handling is really touchy and the car wanders and bump-steers a lot, you probably have toe-out. If your turn-in is really sluggish and you get a lot of understeer, that's toe in. Once you follow the procedure I mentioned a few posts up, you'll see which way to turn the steering rods to correct either problem.
Then get out on the road and drive it. See if it pulls in either direction.
If it pulls right and your handling is a little touchy, your right wheel has toe-out. If it pulls right and your handling is a little sluggish, your right wheel has toe-in. Etc. etc.... you get the idea.
The only problem with playing with camber is that you have to do it while the car is off the ground, and it'll be hard to predict what you'll end up with once you let the car down. Whatever you do, try to make sure it's even on both sides. Then let the car down and play with your toe settings.
If you find that your handling is really touchy and the car wanders and bump-steers a lot, you probably have toe-out. If your turn-in is really sluggish and you get a lot of understeer, that's toe in. Once you follow the procedure I mentioned a few posts up, you'll see which way to turn the steering rods to correct either problem.
Then get out on the road and drive it. See if it pulls in either direction.
If it pulls right and your handling is a little touchy, your right wheel has toe-out. If it pulls right and your handling is a little sluggish, your right wheel has toe-in. Etc. etc.... you get the idea.
well I'm pretty beat for tonight...gonna try tuning some more tomorrow...i'll take your advice and move the shock body to try & correct the camber...damn I can't wait till I get a FSTB too! the difference is huge right dood?
Originally Posted by d00df00d
max929, are you sure it's the strut that's leaking?
I don't see what else in the surrounding area would leak oil like that. I know it's not my trans or oil pan, I doubled checked those. It's all over the strut, spring, even the threaded body is covered in it. d00df00d, how much oil can leak out before the strut is compromised????
ahh, sorry for whoring up this thread so much....but once again, I have another question....
what is a good setting for dampening that compromises good handling and longevity? I am willing to run full stiffness (36) on both front and rears...but I heard it isn't a good idea since it will wear out the shocks quicker....so what setting should I aim for?
what is a good setting for dampening that compromises good handling and longevity? I am willing to run full stiffness (36) on both front and rears...but I heard it isn't a good idea since it will wear out the shocks quicker....so what setting should I aim for?
I just softened mine up for the winter and raised my car. I have it at full soft in rear, and 1 turn from full soft in the front. Before it was full stiff all around. I found those 2 settings worked best for me in terms of balancing out the spring rate and least bouncy feel, and keep the cars handling/bounce very neutral 
max929, if you're sure your strut is leaking, take pics and contact Ksport immediately. This is the kind of problem that they would most likely jump to resolve.
Can't say how much oil you can lose though, since I've never had a strut leak (much less have I seen one leak all the way out).
steven88, your dampening settings won't really affect longevity. The stiffness of the springs might, but not the dampening.
Full stiff is the best for controlling bounce; half-turn (or less) from full soft will allow a little bit of bounce in some cases but will also smooth out the ride considerably.
Can't say how much oil you can lose though, since I've never had a strut leak (much less have I seen one leak all the way out).
steven88, your dampening settings won't really affect longevity. The stiffness of the springs might, but not the dampening.
Full stiff is the best for controlling bounce; half-turn (or less) from full soft will allow a little bit of bounce in some cases but will also smooth out the ride considerably.
Originally Posted by rush0
Do lighter rims really make for a more comfy ride? I really need to figure this out before I dish out the money.
Originally Posted by joebangaa
dang steve you already got those ***** on huh...take some pics. mine should be coming next week..
actually...they are ksports all 4 corners...i was originally going for 2 brand new front units...cuz my D2s were pissing me off like no tomorrow....but Jinsu quoted me real high for just two fronts...so I just said fu*k it and got all 4 corners....might as well u know wut i'm sayin?
and my steering is actually very neutral...like I messed with the camber bolts myself and adjusted them using my naked eye....and so far so good...I like how it rides without pulling to teh left or right
and my steering is actually very neutral...like I messed with the camber bolts myself and adjusted them using my naked eye....and so far so good...I like how it rides without pulling to teh left or right
okay once again...sorry for whoring up this thread...two more questions
1. My rears are rubbing on the highway...usually when I hit a bump pretty fast like 80mph...but normal driving its cool and it doesn't rub over speed bumps in the parking lots...I plan to raise it up a few more just so it can stop rubbing....but my question is...what preload setting should I do to reduce the chances of it rubbing again? Right now my preload is "snug" with maybe a few turns....should i add more (real tight) or add less (loose) to reduce rubbing of the tires?
2. My steering is very neutral...it feels so neutral that it sometimes feels like I just got out of the alignment shopped....I only messed with the camber bolts and not the tie rod nut...my question is, should an alignment be priority right now? I mean, my plan right now is, just watch the wear of my tires...and if I notice any unusual wear, just rotate them and go in for an alignment. Or would u guys just take the precaution and go right now? Also would an alignment improve cornering of the car?
1. My rears are rubbing on the highway...usually when I hit a bump pretty fast like 80mph...but normal driving its cool and it doesn't rub over speed bumps in the parking lots...I plan to raise it up a few more just so it can stop rubbing....but my question is...what preload setting should I do to reduce the chances of it rubbing again? Right now my preload is "snug" with maybe a few turns....should i add more (real tight) or add less (loose) to reduce rubbing of the tires?
2. My steering is very neutral...it feels so neutral that it sometimes feels like I just got out of the alignment shopped....I only messed with the camber bolts and not the tie rod nut...my question is, should an alignment be priority right now? I mean, my plan right now is, just watch the wear of my tires...and if I notice any unusual wear, just rotate them and go in for an alignment. Or would u guys just take the precaution and go right now? Also would an alignment improve cornering of the car?
Originally Posted by steven88
okay once again...sorry for whoring up this thread...two more questions
Originally Posted by steven88
Right now my preload is "snug" with maybe a few turns....should i add more (real tight) or add less (loose) to reduce rubbing of the tires?
Originally Posted by steven88
2. My steering is very neutral...it feels so neutral that it sometimes feels like I just got out of the alignment shopped....I only messed with the camber bolts and not the tie rod nut...my question is, should an alignment be priority right now? I mean, my plan right now is, just watch the wear of my tires...and if I notice any unusual wear, just rotate them and go in for an alignment. Or would u guys just take the precaution and go right now? Also would an alignment improve cornering of the car?
Actually that's what I did. I rode it out without getting an alignment, even tho, steering was off by maybe 1 degree MAX! And no wierd pulling, nothing. 3 months later, the tires in the front were good for garbage, so I quickly swapped them with the rear and drove straight to an alignment shop on the weekend.
Originally Posted by NOZMaximus
Actually that's what I did. I rode it out without getting an alignment, even tho, steering was off by maybe 1 degree MAX! And no wierd pulling, nothing. 3 months later, the tires in the front were good for garbage, so I quickly swapped them with the rear and drove straight to an alignment shop on the weekend.
i did my k-sport instal maybe 2 weeks ago and i did not tighten everything real good......i lifted the car back up to adjust it cause the fronts and back were rubbing.....so i rasied everything up alittle and now i have no rubbing.
as i said i did not tighten everything up real good...well i got back under and i guess the springs compressed alittle do to break in so i pushed them back up to the top and put minimal preload on them. i tightenes everything in place and gave a acouple wacks of the hammer to make sure nothing loosens and there is a night and day differanace between not tightneing all the way and getting everything real tight. it feels like a new car now...steering is so much better and i came off of agx/and s-tech and the ride unbelivably smooth compared. So everyone if you are am amerture at this coilover thing, make sure you tighten everything real good, cause it makes the differance!
as i said i did not tighten everything up real good...well i got back under and i guess the springs compressed alittle do to break in so i pushed them back up to the top and put minimal preload on them. i tightenes everything in place and gave a acouple wacks of the hammer to make sure nothing loosens and there is a night and day differanace between not tightneing all the way and getting everything real tight. it feels like a new car now...steering is so much better and i came off of agx/and s-tech and the ride unbelivably smooth compared. So everyone if you are am amerture at this coilover thing, make sure you tighten everything real good, cause it makes the differance!