HELL YEA! when it is cold outside it is much worst.......

 

how much do raxles go for?

 

I think I heard $260 for the pair.

 

Thats not bad I think mine need replaced AGAIN... $260 pair plus install should be like 5 bills.

 

d00df00d

so this clunk noise, do u think this is the true problem? I'm just asking because I want to install everything properly when I put the K-Sports in. Thanks!

 

Breaker bar to REALLY tighten those steering knuckle bolts...can't hurt.

 

Look what I found:
Hopefully this tip will help some of you guys with K-Sports. BTW read the whole article, it's excellent.

 

That's just one of the possibilities. But if you'll recall, a member recently posted about that bolt slipping and messing up his alignment, so it's definitely an important thing to take care of.

 

yea...well im going to be putting my on this weekend. hope all goes well with it

 

I still get a clunk type noise in the back. If I make the shock harder with the top adjustment piece it get's worse and feels like the whole strut moves a little.

 

If that's the case, it really might be something knocking around in your trunk...

 

It only happens on the right rear strut. But we'll see, I will take the sub box out of my trunk first.

 

Rear right? That's where the jack is... Make sure that's secure as well.

 

Question....

Right now I'm too lazy to check this out for myself since it would involve taking the front and rear tires off at a minimum but are the front and rear springs on the Ksports the same size in physical dimensions? (meaning, are they interchangable?) I know they have different spring rates but I'm simply interested to know if they are interchangable. Anybody know?

 

They look like the same size.

But why?

 

so im not the only one with axle's that make crackin noises when u turn the steering wheel. am i?

 

i believe the front and back are different ID and different length. but don't quote me on that one.

 

My front right is making some rattling. Either my bearing (which was TOTALLY fine before install or my axle)

I jacked the control arm up to install the passenger side CO and i got up to some point and then CLANG!!! it popped and froze. I had no idea what happened. I hope it wasn't the axle.

 

Ksport told me that all of their springs have the same inner diameter, and I definitely seem to recall that the front and rear springs were the same length as well (when uncompressed, of course). They should be completely interchangeable.

Even if they weren't the same length, though, you could easily account for that by adjusting the position of the lower spring perch...


Well, you're definitely not the only one who's had noises like that. Did you determine that it was your axle though? That'd be crazy... I just remembered seeing the video you posted a while back (I forgot to respond), and it honestly sounds like you might have to undo the lower mount collars and clean them thoroughly before re-tightening.

If that doesn't work, it could also be something in your steering...

 

what is the point of these? are they needed? cuz i dont think i have them anymore

 

so how do i make the ride less "floaty?" I want my Max to ride as stock as possible and these just aren't working out for me. I even ordered them revalved with 7/5 springs, any suggestions?

 

Well, I did just order a softer set from Jinsu for all four (and I'm not sure if he's ordered/shipped them yet) but I was thinking of reusing one pair and just ordering one new pair.

Jinsu has told me that Ksport doesn't make a 5kg spring - only 6 and 7. Therefore, if the current set is 9/7 and I'll be getting a set of 7/6 all I'd really need is the 6kg springs. I could re-use the 7kg springs from my shocks and put them on my struts. Actually, now that I think about it, it doesn't even matter that Ksport doesn't make a 5kg. I would still be in the same position if I were going with a set of 7/X springs.

 

From who did you get the 5kg springs?

 

bodykits northwest, my weekend car is a turbo prelude so i frequent the honda forums, they are a sponsor on there...my k-sports will be for sale VERY soon

 

sup u located in chattanooga? What yr max. do you have?

 

i'm in hixson, my max is an 02 with a handful of mods...

 

nice man..im in red bank go to UTC. Do you have KSports on your max. Hit me up sometime we can meet up. I have an 01' Black Maxima with the mods in my sig.

 

Could you describe what you're looking for another way? I'm not sure what you mean by MORE like stock, but LESS floaty... Stock IS floaty, so more like stock would be more floaty, and less floaty would be less like stock...

 

cool,i'm new here so my pm doesn't work yet, when i get enough posts to accept pm's i'll hit you up...

doodfood, what i'm talking about is like when i go over a bump or a dip on the interstate at ~70mph it feels like my car is "taking off" like it's going launching from a ramp, then it settles itself by bouncing a couple of times, thats what i'm refering to as "floaty"

 

Oh, I gotcha. That's bounce. I had exactly the same problem when I first got everything installed.

You're gonna have to play with different dampening settings. It's weird... that highway bounce was the worst when I had my dampening set around the middle. If I turned it down to near the softest setting, it had enough compliance that it just absorbed the bumps better and didn't jerk the car around. If I turned it all the way up, it rode a little harder but had enough dampening force to prevent the launching and all the bouncing afterwards. That's basically why I keep saying "half-turn from full soft, or full stiff" whenever someone asks me about dampening settings.

Of course, you have a 5th gen and revalved shocks with different spring rates, so you might end up with a different combo. Just try stuff and see what works best. Nothing better than trial-and-error in this case...

 

bump

10 char

 

Oh, you were asking for help? Sorry... I dunno about anyone else but I didn't see an actual question, so I figured you were just sharing.

So... what's the question?

 

LOL. I was wondering what could be causing it.

1) Control arm links
2) Bearing and/or hub
3) Drive axle

 

You mean, what could be causing the rattle? Lots of things...

1. Top mount nuts not fully tightened
2. ALL the other crap referred to in the noise-killing post (link is on the very first post in this thread)
3. Loose brake pads (hold the brakes really lightly and see if the rattle goes away)
4. Some other thing in your engine bay
5. Gremlins
6. Leprechauns

I highly doubt it's your control arm, bearing, or axle.

 

Dang, it has to be the Trix i've been putting in the gas tank. Silly rabbit.

Seriously though, I don't think its in the engine bay, coming from the actual wheel area.

 

cool, i'll just keep messing with it, right now it's set to .5-1 turn from full soft, i'll keep playing with it until i'm happy...

 

hey guys. I just received my ksports thursday and plan on doing the install this weekend. I've some a lot time reading as much as i can in this thread, which has helped out ALOT so thanks too everyone who contributed. I do have one question on alignment though.

I plan on putting them on and setting them to half a turn from soft and leaving them. not really worrying about ride height right now, its winter so it needs to be somewhat close to stock anyways. Do you think i should still get an alignment? When spring FINALLy comes around when i put my volks back on, i'm going to want to do an alignment then so i don't screw up good tires when i drop it 3.5 inches. But also, when they do the alignment, do they mess with the camber on the ksports? I guess i could just see me taking my car into a shop and them not really knowing what to do when i say i have camber plates (I live in SD, c'mon). So just wondering if I make the camber adjustment aware to them, they will adjust it accordingly.

Anyways, can't wait to get them on. Dunno how they will do in the cold, its been -10 last couple of days . I Plan on finding a heated garage .

 

From the previous experience of doing perhaps 200+(modestly) alignments, I would have LOVED to have had camber plates on EVERY single car...but that was never the case, never once. If the alignment shop's tech/mech knows what they are doing, camber plates will make the job MUCH easier;

There are several ways to adjust the front camber with ADJUSTABLE STYLE STRUT BOLTS on strut-style setups, all of which are time-consuming and require an amount of skill to do correctly the first time. The reason being; the wheel must stay mounted to the hub, the car must remain at ride height/it cannot be jacked up, the alignment sensors must remain on the wheel.

What adds to the difficulty of the task; the cramped amount of space to access the ADJUSTABLE STYLE STRUT BOLTS from the interior of the wheel-well, the tendancy for the wheel to slip/pop out of alignment while the ADJUSTABLE STYLE STRUT BOLTS & RETAINING NUT are loose enough to adjust, avoiding much rocking/moving of the vehicle while the front wheels are on unsecured turntables, avoiding any contact/dislodging of the alignment sensor from the wheel...the list goes on and on.

All of this trouble/hassle can be bypassed by having camber plates. If the tech/mech does not realize, know, or notice this, he should not be working on your car. I say this because IMHO, if the basic concept of topside camber adjustment is absent, there is no possible way the quality of his alignment will be adequate.

If the alignment shop's tech/mech knows what they are doing, this shouldn't be a problem at all.

PS - ADJUSTABLE STYLE STRUT BOLTS are availible for our particular application (4th gen maxima), from WAGNER. I've never used these in conjunction with K-SPORT coilovers, nor have I ever installed K-SPORT coilovers. However, from what I've read and come to understand about the product's design, I wouldn't imagine any undue complications.

 

Welcome to the fold!

You can skip the alignment if the car drives straight and you really need to save the money, but I would get one anyway. With those camber plates and elongated strut bolt holes, there are enough variables in the install that it would be good to get it all re-checked on an alignment rack. The same applies to adjusting height.

 

So i got the ksports on today, and my first impression is that they are awesome. I think i have a little preload on though because they are pretty stiff (and i'm even comming from GC's and AGX). But i only tightened them hand tight. They were very quiet but on the 1hr trip home on really crappy roads the noises started to come. When i turn the wheel i get a lot of creeking noises. The solution to the this in the noise post is to use grease between the rubber isolaters. This seems to be too early to be having to regrease, is this maybe a sign of having too much preload? When you hand tighten the upper collar against the spring, you mean just so it touches? I tightened pretty good with my hands. Anyways, i'll get it back up on jack stands and try adjusting a few things.

I can't wait till spring so i can put the volks back on, and tuck the tires under

edited to add a question.