How the F#$% do you get the bush pin out of the LCA bushing?!!
08-19-2006, 01:22 PM
#1
How the F#$% do you get the bush pin out of the LCA bushing?!!
So I'm in the middle of an LCA swap - I've got the passenger side LCA off the car and I think I'm home free to install the new one but then I realize I can't get the bush pin out of the LCA bushing. The bush pin bolts to the frame of the car, and the end of it goes through the cylindrical LCA bushing. It seems that the bush pin is seized to the steel sleeve inside the old bushing. I've tried banging it with a hammer, with a sledgehammer, etc, no dice. What's the trick? Or was I supposed to purchase new bush pins? WTF
08-19-2006, 01:41 PM
#2
do you have the bush pin off the car, or not?
I unbolted the bush pin from the car and just pulled it out of the LCA bushing with some elbow grease.
You could also use a pry bar to push the LCA off the bush pin.
I unbolted the bush pin from the car and just pulled it out of the LCA bushing with some elbow grease.
You could also use a pry bar to push the LCA off the bush pin.
08-19-2006, 02:04 PM
#3
The LCA is off the car and the bush pin is off the car as well, and seized to the sleeve inside the LCA bushing. I just doused it with PB blaster and let it sit for 20 minutes, went back out and tried smacking it as hard as I could 1 handed with a sledgehammer (the other hand holding the LCA upright). Nothing. Based on that, I don't think that prying it is going to work, unless I can get some SERIOUS leverage on it.
I'm going to try going into work and doing it there, if my boss ever calls me back. I figure some heat, a vice, and hopefully a press will get it out, but I hadn't heard of this ever being an issue.
Question: under normal operation is the steel sleeve inside the LCA bushing supposed to just be able to pivot around the bush pin? that would be my guess, but the fact that those two things are seized together on my LCA means that rather than the sleeve pivoting on the pin, rather the entire bushing is "flexing" and allowing the sleeve to sortof "twist" within the bushing itself - tearing the bushing to shreds in the process.
I'm going to try going into work and doing it there, if my boss ever calls me back. I figure some heat, a vice, and hopefully a press will get it out, but I hadn't heard of this ever being an issue.
Question: under normal operation is the steel sleeve inside the LCA bushing supposed to just be able to pivot around the bush pin? that would be my guess, but the fact that those two things are seized together on my LCA means that rather than the sleeve pivoting on the pin, rather the entire bushing is "flexing" and allowing the sleeve to sortof "twist" within the bushing itself - tearing the bushing to shreds in the process.
08-19-2006, 03:46 PM
#4
No, I don't think the LCA is supposed to rotate on the bush pin, except to the extent that the rubber bushing flexes. Typically in a metal-on-metal application with an ATTACHED rubber bushing, it is only for flex, and not for rotation (as opposed to a poly bushings).
If you can put the bush pin into a vise of some sort, you should be able to "twist" the LCA off - all about leverage in this case.
If not, then a quick call to DaveB is in order
Btw, suggest you call Dave anyways and score up some new bush pin link bolts, as they have a tendancy to strip easily. Also make sure to replace the LCA end nut with a new one!
If you can put the bush pin into a vise of some sort, you should be able to "twist" the LCA off - all about leverage in this case.
If not, then a quick call to DaveB is in order
Btw, suggest you call Dave anyways and score up some new bush pin link bolts, as they have a tendancy to strip easily. Also make sure to replace the LCA end nut with a new one!
08-19-2006, 06:29 PM
#5
DaveB has always hooked me up nicely, and I'll be calling him on monday. Thanks for the advice about the LCA end nut and bush pin bolts as well.
I went into the shop and tried to put the LCA in a vice and use an air hammer on the bush pin- no go. I've never had anything stand up to that air hammer, it's a beast, but this was more than it could handle. I tried heat, oil, pb blaster, air hammer, etc. Because of the shape of the LCA I wasn't able to try any of our three presses unfortunately. I'm going to let it soak in oil overnight and try it once more tomorrow and if that doesn't work I'll be ordering new ones from dave.
I went into the shop and tried to put the LCA in a vice and use an air hammer on the bush pin- no go. I've never had anything stand up to that air hammer, it's a beast, but this was more than it could handle. I tried heat, oil, pb blaster, air hammer, etc. Because of the shape of the LCA I wasn't able to try any of our three presses unfortunately. I'm going to let it soak in oil overnight and try it once more tomorrow and if that doesn't work I'll be ordering new ones from dave.
08-20-2006, 01:35 PM
#6
Not to get off topics but: . . .
Anyone have the number to DaveB, I've heard he has good prices but I'll find out when I call him monday for some seal rings I need. does he have better prices than coutesy? If so I'll give him a call.
Anyone have the number to DaveB, I've heard he has good prices but I'll find out when I call him monday for some seal rings I need. does he have better prices than coutesy? If so I'll give him a call.
08-20-2006, 01:46 PM
#7
I had the same thing happen. I took the pin to work and put it in a hydrolic vice, put pressure on each side, a lot of pressure like 5000 lbs. Then put the other end in a vice and turned the sleave with a vice grips and twisted it right off.
08-20-2006, 05:17 PM
#8
the other option, I suppose, would be to use a propane torch to burn the rubber out of the bushing, and then just cut the metal collar off.
It's probably pretty cheap to get new bush pins anyhow - though I would bet that Dave would have to special order them, since he had to special order the bush pin bolts that I got from him....
BTW, to whoever asked. Dave's number is in the 5th gen FAQ's. I'm too lazy to look it up, so you'll have to
It's probably pretty cheap to get new bush pins anyhow - though I would bet that Dave would have to special order them, since he had to special order the bush pin bolts that I got from him....
BTW, to whoever asked. Dave's number is in the 5th gen FAQ's. I'm too lazy to look it up, so you'll have to
08-20-2006, 05:26 PM
#9
If memory serves that ball joint is normally pressed out, but I believe it is all rubber and could be burned/melted out. But the new one would need to be pressed in. a local shop should have a press and get it out in a few mins
Thats all I needed . . . a point in the right direction
Originally Posted by irish44j
BTW, to whoever asked. Dave's number is in the 5th gen FAQ's. I'm too lazy to look it up, so you'll have to
08-20-2006, 07:03 PM
#10
Same thing happened to me. Burn bushing out. Pin comes out with seized sleave still on. Get all excess rubber off the sleave. Clamp sleave in vice. Heat everything. Use a long bar that fits in one of the holes for the bolts and twist. Worked for me.
08-21-2006, 08:02 AM
#11
2-jaw puller on the control arm and use it to push the pin out of the center. it'll rip the rubber bushing to shreds, then scrape the excess rubber off the sleeve and heat with a torch until you can turn it with a pipe wrench and eventually it will come off the pin.
(this is why when I did control arm exchanges on 3 gens, I sent new control arm gussets with the rebuilt control arms- the bush pin is welded to them on 3 gens).
for more insight:
http://blehmco.com/faq/control_arm_b...placement.html
http://blehmco.com/faq/remove_bushing.jpg
(this is why when I did control arm exchanges on 3 gens, I sent new control arm gussets with the rebuilt control arms- the bush pin is welded to them on 3 gens).
for more insight:
http://blehmco.com/faq/control_arm_b...placement.html
http://blehmco.com/faq/remove_bushing.jpg
08-28-2006, 11:16 AM
#12
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
2-jaw puller on the control arm and use it to push the pin out of the center. it'll rip the rubber bushing to shreds, then scrape the excess rubber off the sleeve and heat with a torch until you can turn it with a pipe wrench and eventually it will come off the pin.
(this is why when I did control arm exchanges on 3 gens, I sent new control arm gussets with the rebuilt control arms- the bush pin is welded to them on 3 gens).
for more insight:
http://blehmco.com/faq/control_arm_b...placement.html
http://blehmco.com/faq/remove_bushing.jpg
(this is why when I did control arm exchanges on 3 gens, I sent new control arm gussets with the rebuilt control arms- the bush pin is welded to them on 3 gens).
for more insight:
http://blehmco.com/faq/control_arm_b...placement.html
http://blehmco.com/faq/remove_bushing.jpg
pretty much how i did it too. I just burned out the bushing instead of using a gear puller. Then hammered and hammered and hammered and hammered and hammered to no avail. Finaly I decided I had to use the darn thing as it was. Metal sleeve hopelessly stuck to the pin. I busted out a drill with a wire cup brush to clean off the last bits of the old OEM rubber bushing. Soon as I had it all nice and clean the d@mn sleeve fell right off 
10-16-2006, 09:06 PM
#15
Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 36
I dropped my car (Lowered) about 4 months ago on dropsone springs and kept the factory struts. About a week ago my front right (passenger) side started to make a clunk sound. Seems to happen when I either turn hard (right) or over a nice dip in the road. Do you guys have any pics on LCA I am assuming you mean Lower Control Arm or assembly.
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