I got Mossy Performance stainless steel brake lines in yesterday and want to install them this weekend. Does anyone know where I can find a good writeup on it? Any pointers that I should know or things I should avoid?

 

Anybody? Anybody?

 

You really need a write up for this? Just remove the old ones one at a time and install the new ones one at a time. Use box wrenches and pb blaster. Then bleed the brakes. Simple as that.

 

You might be surprised to learn that I have never done anything with brake lines before, hence the question to overcome my ignorance of the subject. But since brakes are a critical safety feature of the car, I didn't want to assume anything about something I didn't know anything about and end up in a ditch, smashed into a median, or worse. Thanks for the advice.

Can anyone else explain how to properly and safely bleed brakes or direct me to a writeup where this is all explained in painstaking detail?

 

Yes, yes, yes!!

Box Wrench FTW, I stripped one of mine because I did not have box wrenches.... I had to call my brother to come over with his to finish....

If really have no idea how to bleed the brakes make friends with a mechanic, it is important.

 

buy some speedbleeders

 

I actually have some for another Nissan that I never used. What size is needed?

 

SB1010 # M10 X 1.0
Most all nissans are that size.
http://www.speedbleeder.com/automobi...#Nissan/Datsun

 

NO, NO, NO!!!!

First of all:

1. a box-end wrench has an enclosed ring...you cannot use it on brake lines since there's no way to put it on over the line
2. you MEANT to say open-ended wrench
3. most people have combination wrenches (one end open, one end boxed) like so:




DO NOT USE BOX-END OR OPEN-END WRENCHES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! (unless, of course, you want to strip the fittings and be totally screwed).

Go to your nearest car parts store or Sears and buy a set of flare-nut wrenches, which will not strip brake line fittings, which are made of softer metal. Box-ends (well, open-ends) might work, but you're taking the chance of stripping.

As you can see, flare-nut wrenches have more surface contact points (6) than box-end wrenches (2), and are much more effective. Nobody who works on cars should be without a set of these....

 

Thats what I meant... I got confused. Now I feel like an azz.

Thanks for the correction.

 

freakin n00b!

 

Why don't you stop waisting your time correcting me and go forge me some G35 18's since you said you can do that at home!

 

Home Depot was out of molten aluminum.....I'll have to wait until next week.

Go buy some H&Rs, since they're German and Eibachs aren't, ok???

 

I will as soon as I stuff my SFC with foam!

I guess I have to get SFC first though...

 

Advice like this is exactly why I asked for a link to a good writeup.

Thanks irish44j for the tip on the flare-nut wrenches. I've never encountered a specific use for them but now I have a good excuse to buy a set.

Thanks fanaticrockford for the info on speedbleeder size. The ones I have are that size. I got all 4 and the little bag with the hose for $15 years ago and never used them on my other car.

I wasn't sure if Dubbya and upstatemax were being sarcastic about using a box end on a brake line or if they just didn't know better or thought I was an idiot. Then I figured they meant open end and it just come out wrong. No harm done.

Thanks all.

 

yeah i stripped mine with a regular wrench but i got them off easily with some vice-grips

 

Do'oh Dubbya = owned.

I ment to type flare nut wrench. Its what I was thinking, but obviously not what I was typing. Definately use the speed bleeders.

Here it the proper way to bleed the brakes.

Bleed air in the following order.

Right rear brake , Left front brake , Left rear brake , Right
front brake

1. Connect a transparent vinyl tube to air bleeder valve.
2. Fully depress brake pedal several times.
3. With brake pedal depressed, open air bleeder valve to release
air.
4. Close air bleeder valve.
5. Release brake pedal slowly.
6. Repeat steps 2. through 5. until clear brake fluid comes out of
air bleeder valve.

If you have speed bleeders you can just open the bleeder valve and pump away until the new fluid comes out.

After you bleed them and everything is done start the car and pump the brakes until they are firm. When you first start the car there will be NO brake pressure. Its very important to realize that. Do not take the car out of Park until you have brake pressure.

 

Honest mistake, I mixed the two wrenches up... SO Irish just to remind me...

No more mix ups... Here is the true story. I stripped one of mine using a box wrench... I had to call my brother to bring over his flare-nut wrenches. I just saw Dubbya type box wrenches and it clicked in my head thats what they were.

 

Here you go:

https://maxima.org/shoptalk/sub_modi...es/index.shtml

 

Thank you! This is exactly what I asked for. I'm glad that someone knew where to find it and could direct me there. Kudos to you, sir.

 

who knew someone did a writeup for such a simple thing?

 

No problem. Also, consider buying a Factory Service Manual. The directions are all in there. It tells you which side of the car to bleed first. Also, if you are unsure about your ability to bleed brakes, then don't chance it. Either get a mechanic friend to help you or simply get speed bleeders! Good Luck!


Yeah, I thought the same thing. I was searching for a great deal on SS lines for my Maxima when I came across that link.

 

I posted the bleeding procedure. Its straight out of the FSM. Cut 'n paste ftw!

 

I actually have a FSM in PDF format but didn't think to look there for it. As far as being simple, it seems to be really stratightforward - If you've done it before. I haven't and I want to be certain that it is within my skill level to do safely since it is something my life depends on. I have the speedbleeders too so hopefully that will make it much easier. Thanks for the help.

 

Who knew people wouldn't even think to look in the MaxFAQs for writeups on such common mods that EVERYONE does to their cars?

 

I'm about to go get this done along with the RSB install. Are there any compatibility issues with using DOT 4 synthetic brake fluid in our systems? Is there any benefit or should I just use regular DOT 3? On the way to go buy a 10 mm flare nut wrench...

 

I haven't seen any DOT 4 fluid that did not meet DOT 3 specs as well, so you should have no issues. Have fun. When installing the rears, make EXTRA sure your lines are not going to rub on the swaybar. This is the #1 problem Ive seen with the SS lines installed on the rear.

 

Why not just check the FSM or Haynes and read how to replace the lines. Dosnt make a diff if its rubber or ss, the method is still the same. just stronger material.

 

Done. Much easier than anticipated. Got the RSB on in under a half hour. There was no need to remove the rear wheels as the instructions said. Brake lines took a little longer just because of haveing to jack up each wheel individually. Thanks for the link to the writeup and the advice.