5th gen adjustable traction bars are now available
#41
I don't see it making much difference with auto X, since the main goal of these is to reduce wheel hop. I've only once had an issue with wheel hop at an AutoX and that was on a VERY tight course and I was downshifting to 1st for lots of corners and coming out spinning the tires (which we all know is a no-no. I was flat out driving too hard.)
I also don't see much issue with the suspension binding. the bars should come out at an angle and ideally connect along the same axis of the control arms (which on 4th and 5th gens points outward, not straight forward or inward)... it wouldn't be too hard to use a laser pointer thingy on the radiator support to point at the control arm pivot points and line it up. mount it there and there will be zero issue with binding. just going by guess and experience under a 4/5 gen, I'm going to guess that point is just about straight forward from the control arm mount... you may also be able to take the underbody diagram on the FSM and use a ruler to draw a line through the pivots and line it up using visual indicators on the car.
I also don't see much issue with the suspension binding. the bars should come out at an angle and ideally connect along the same axis of the control arms (which on 4th and 5th gens points outward, not straight forward or inward)... it wouldn't be too hard to use a laser pointer thingy on the radiator support to point at the control arm pivot points and line it up. mount it there and there will be zero issue with binding. just going by guess and experience under a 4/5 gen, I'm going to guess that point is just about straight forward from the control arm mount... you may also be able to take the underbody diagram on the FSM and use a ruler to draw a line through the pivots and line it up using visual indicators on the car.
#43
I don't see it making much difference with auto X, since the main goal of these is to reduce wheel hop. I've only once had an issue with wheel hop at an AutoX and that was on a VERY tight course and I was downshifting to 1st for lots of corners and coming out spinning the tires (which we all know is a no-no. I was flat out driving too hard.)
I also don't see much issue with the suspension binding. the bars should come out at an angle and ideally connect along the same axis of the control arms (which on 4th and 5th gens points outward, not straight forward or inward)... it wouldn't be too hard to use a laser pointer thingy on the radiator support to point at the control arm pivot points and line it up. mount it there and there will be zero issue with binding. just going by guess and experience under a 4/5 gen, I'm going to guess that point is just about straight forward from the control arm mount... you may also be able to take the underbody diagram on the FSM and use a ruler to draw a line through the pivots and line it up using visual indicators on the car.
I also don't see much issue with the suspension binding. the bars should come out at an angle and ideally connect along the same axis of the control arms (which on 4th and 5th gens points outward, not straight forward or inward)... it wouldn't be too hard to use a laser pointer thingy on the radiator support to point at the control arm pivot points and line it up. mount it there and there will be zero issue with binding. just going by guess and experience under a 4/5 gen, I'm going to guess that point is just about straight forward from the control arm mount... you may also be able to take the underbody diagram on the FSM and use a ruler to draw a line through the pivots and line it up using visual indicators on the car.
#46
btw, I'm going to let this sit here for a while, but if your intention is to sell and do group deals here on the org (especially multiple generations of these bars), you should get in touch with the site administrator and ask about being a sponsor. I don't know details about how much it costs or anything, but it's something to look into, since technically, selling product outside of the classifieds is verboten except for sponsors.
Like I said, I'm going to leave things here for the time being, but you should get in touch with Jeff92se or gtr_rider or bluemaxx and see what the deal is. Matt (93SE) might be able to tell you details about being a sponsor also...
Like I said, I'm going to leave things here for the time being, but you should get in touch with Jeff92se or gtr_rider or bluemaxx and see what the deal is. Matt (93SE) might be able to tell you details about being a sponsor also...
#49
Could I suggest a bar that bolts on where the factory tow hooks are, and mount them to that.
I'm sure I'm not the only one that has hit junk on the road that would destroy that mount point.
Just for a reference here is a setup I was working on but was unable to finish. (car was hit head on by drunk) The front bar under the radiator was going to have the traction bars coming off of it.
Just my .02
-Sean
I'm sure I'm not the only one that has hit junk on the road that would destroy that mount point.
Just for a reference here is a setup I was working on but was unable to finish. (car was hit head on by drunk) The front bar under the radiator was going to have the traction bars coming off of it.
Just my .02
-Sean
Last edited by funky_monkey58; 12-19-2007 at 01:10 AM.
#50
looks neato, but I could pick 10,000,000 holes in that from an engineering standpoint.
tubes are too small in the critical areas, and you're triangulating angles into dead space.
all of the forces go into buckling the tubes right in the middle instead of pushing against a solid object. that tubing is very easy to bend, but hard to compress or pull apart.
Think X, not K....
tubes are too small in the critical areas, and you're triangulating angles into dead space.
all of the forces go into buckling the tubes right in the middle instead of pushing against a solid object. that tubing is very easy to bend, but hard to compress or pull apart.
Think X, not K....
#51
I'd have to agree with Matt, Sean. From an engineering standpoint, that full brace setup you have there would probably be stronger and more rigid if it was either a ladder configuration or an "X" from the rear mount points to the front bar.
Now, as to the traction bars....I'm not real psyched about that front mount position. First of all it really doesn't look like a very strong mount point. As mentioned above, having some kindof bracket that attaches to the factory tow hook points might be more rigid. Just thinking out loud though...
Now, as to the traction bars....I'm not real psyched about that front mount position. First of all it really doesn't look like a very strong mount point. As mentioned above, having some kindof bracket that attaches to the factory tow hook points might be more rigid. Just thinking out loud though...
#53
looks neato, but I could pick 10,000,000 holes in that from an engineering standpoint.
tubes are too small in the critical areas, and you're triangulating angles into dead space.
all of the forces go into buckling the tubes right in the middle instead of pushing against a solid object. that tubing is very easy to bend, but hard to compress or pull apart.
Think X, not K....
tubes are too small in the critical areas, and you're triangulating angles into dead space.
all of the forces go into buckling the tubes right in the middle instead of pushing against a solid object. that tubing is very easy to bend, but hard to compress or pull apart.
Think X, not K....
One that it has the rearward bracing feature, and two that it was going to have traction bars.
It was for the srt4 which a similar setup is available but you have to buy both separately and I wanted to eliminate that.
End of thread jack. (sorry)
-Sean
#54
1. sales threads typically are not allowed in this section
2. group deal threads typically are not allowed unless you're a site sponsor.
I'm cutting you a break by letting you have this thread here, remember that.
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