5.5 gen LCA bushings how to
06-28-2010, 06:37 PM
#1
5.5 gen LCA bushings how to
so i just finished installing my new LCA bushings from energy and let me tell you that was a PITA!!! after doing one side it went pretty quick but there were a few things i wanted to share with you guys that i didnt know before doing this....
-first jack both wheels up and make sure the cars sturdy,put the e-brake on too
-take the wheels off and take the axle nut and tie rod cotter pins out.
-loosen the 32mm axle nut
-then unbolt the strut bolts on the knuckle(should be a 17mm and 19mm)
-disconnect the sway bar links connecting to the LCA with hand tools (air tools might break the link)
-now i forgot my 1/2" swivel at work, so instead of removing the ball joint, i disconnected the abs wire(follow it into the engine bay its just a connector)
-then i loosen the tie rod and smacked the knuckle and set the tie rod aside
-after doing this remove the two 19mm brake caliper bracket bolts, and hang the brakes with a bungy cord from the spring
-now remove all 6 22mm bolts holding up the bush link and the rear bushing housing
-you should now have the control arm with the hub still connected on the ground
-heres the fun part, grab your propane torch and start melting the bushings (one at a time), be very careful with the big rear bushings, there filled with liquid and "burst" when hot enough, so wear proper attire(i got blasted and alittle burnt, lol)
-once hot enough using a 1/2 socket(14mm) as a punch smack the small bushing center sleeve out
-with the big one after the bushing melts you can grab a big screw driver, stick it in the bolt hole on the bushing housing and twist it untill it turns 180 and you can feel the bushing is torn completely
-i used a sawzal and starting cutting a line through the sleeves on the bushing housings, after you get all the way through the sleeves will come out with a screwdriver and hammer, if its not, your not all the way through the metal, keep cutting carefully.
- then carefully line up the sawzal blade(fully extended) with the rear bushing arm so you dont cut the LCA and cut the sleeve with the 2 nubs on it and carefully cut a line down the middle, then grab some pliers and twist it right off,again if it doesnt come off its not cut all the way through
-clean the holes that the bushings are going to go in
- now you can start using the energy grease and grease ALL the contact points
for the bushings,you should have more than enough grease
- using a vise as a press, press the new bushings into the control arm
-then press the big bushing into the housing,make sure you dont press it in backwards, it says rear right on the bushing
- now you can start the reasembly, i used a jack to hold up the control arm while i put all the bolts back in(i put every bolt in its place, then tightened,make sure you use a penetrating oil on all of the 22mm bolts,spray the holes too it will make things much easier.
i only took about a mile ride but the car feels sooo much better, the steering is more refined, it feels tighter too. i will post an update after some time behind the wheel.
hope this helps
-first jack both wheels up and make sure the cars sturdy,put the e-brake on too
-take the wheels off and take the axle nut and tie rod cotter pins out.
-loosen the 32mm axle nut
-then unbolt the strut bolts on the knuckle(should be a 17mm and 19mm)
-disconnect the sway bar links connecting to the LCA with hand tools (air tools might break the link)
-now i forgot my 1/2" swivel at work, so instead of removing the ball joint, i disconnected the abs wire(follow it into the engine bay its just a connector)
-then i loosen the tie rod and smacked the knuckle and set the tie rod aside
-after doing this remove the two 19mm brake caliper bracket bolts, and hang the brakes with a bungy cord from the spring
-now remove all 6 22mm bolts holding up the bush link and the rear bushing housing
-you should now have the control arm with the hub still connected on the ground
-heres the fun part, grab your propane torch and start melting the bushings (one at a time), be very careful with the big rear bushings, there filled with liquid and "burst" when hot enough, so wear proper attire(i got blasted and alittle burnt, lol)
-once hot enough using a 1/2 socket(14mm) as a punch smack the small bushing center sleeve out
-with the big one after the bushing melts you can grab a big screw driver, stick it in the bolt hole on the bushing housing and twist it untill it turns 180 and you can feel the bushing is torn completely
-i used a sawzal and starting cutting a line through the sleeves on the bushing housings, after you get all the way through the sleeves will come out with a screwdriver and hammer, if its not, your not all the way through the metal, keep cutting carefully.
- then carefully line up the sawzal blade(fully extended) with the rear bushing arm so you dont cut the LCA and cut the sleeve with the 2 nubs on it and carefully cut a line down the middle, then grab some pliers and twist it right off,again if it doesnt come off its not cut all the way through
-clean the holes that the bushings are going to go in
- now you can start using the energy grease and grease ALL the contact points
for the bushings,you should have more than enough grease
- using a vise as a press, press the new bushings into the control arm
-then press the big bushing into the housing,make sure you dont press it in backwards, it says rear right on the bushing
- now you can start the reasembly, i used a jack to hold up the control arm while i put all the bolts back in(i put every bolt in its place, then tightened,make sure you use a penetrating oil on all of the 22mm bolts,spray the holes too it will make things much easier.
i only took about a mile ride but the car feels sooo much better, the steering is more refined, it feels tighter too. i will post an update after some time behind the wheel.
hope this helps
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