Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

Have they been tried by anybody? This might be especially helpful to those with 300ZX calipers that have the issues with initial brake response. I was just looking on wilwoods site and they dont cost more than $100.

Most likely these will not just bolt on with our hardlines etc so some solutions to the hardlines would also be helpful. And that mess of lines on the ABS cars.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

Some information, about our stock MC&Brakes

For the 4th gens:
Stock MC Bore is 15/16(23.61mm)
Fr brake cylinder is 2.25"(57.2mm)
R brake cylinder is 1.34"(33.96mm)

Wilwood MC bores up to 1 1/8(the size of the Z32 MC).

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Keep in mind that a wilwood master cylinder only has one bore no proportioning valve for the rears. if you install one in your car, you're going to do more harm than good unless you install a separate master cylinder for front and rear, and a balance bar to adjust them.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

I was looking into proportioning valves aswell, they are about $50 shipped, from what im understanding it will be possible to adjust the Brake bias to a 70/30 split. I know the ABS cars(4th gens) do not have a proportioning valve built into the MC, so it might be plug and play for them as soon as they get the piping figured out.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

All 4th gens have a prop valve, and so did the first few years of 5 gen I looked at.

You don't want to blindly adjust to a 70/30 split either. The ideal split is a dynamic thing and would need to be adjusted for each type of surface, condition, tire type, driving style, and anything you do to alter the car's balance. for a street car, it's pretty much a set-it-and-forget-it thing, but for a track car you'll actually want to change the settings for maximum braking based on all of the above conditions. Every new track I go to and tire change I make, I have to adjust the bias slightly in order to keep the car handling the way I want.

Nissan's way of designing things for street cars is to run equal pressure to the front and rear up to a certain line pressure. Then the front continues to rise with increased pedal pressure and the rear only rises a certain percent of that. Based on each particular model, that split point is at a different line pressure and has a different slope.. i.e. Maximas are very nose-heavy and have a soft suspension, so their split point it lower and the curve is lower than say a 300ZX that doesn't transfer near as much weight to the front of the car under braking.

Lots of dynamics here, and no ideal answer. But installing just one master cylinder for all brakes is both illegal (against DOT regs) and worse-performing than to leave the factory stuff alone. DOT regs require a dual-hydraulic system. the hydraulic system should be able to operate two wheels in the event of failure of any one point in the system. i.e. if you break a line on your left front, the right rear will stop working, but the right front and left rear brake will still work.

given TOTAL hydraulic failure, you're required to have a mechanical backup as well, which is why every parking brake you see on a street car uses cables and a mechanical system. a hydraulic line lock is not street legal as a parking brake for exactly that reason.


Back to the point.. Wilwood does sell some dual-bore master cylinders that will work for what you want to do which will get you close, then you can install an external prop valve on top of that to make the final adjustments. SOME race cars do that, but most of them will run two master cylinders with a balance bar and an adjustable center pivot so you can move the bias forward or back as needed.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

Of course im not going to blindly go with a 70/30 split, i was saying it was adjustable up to a 70/30 split. And for the rear brakes there is a caliper with a built in cable brake, we would be able to run a lot bigger rotor.

And what i mean with these proportioning valves, the Z32s and non-abs maxima have them incorporated into the MC, ive heard of a non-abs maxima running a Z32 MC. The ABS cars have an external one. Its mounted on the firewall. this would explain why the Z32 MC will not work in a Maxima with ABS, there are 2 proportioning valves working against each other:

300ZX:


4th gen Maxima:


Thats why im asking about a Wilwood MC possibly being a plug and play.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Talking about the Wilwood Powerlite w/ parking brake? Until you have a pair in your hands, I wouldn't spend any money on anything else. Not so cheap or easy to come by from what I hear.
As for the rest of it, you could use one of the wilwood dual MCs for what you're wanting, but it's really not going to give you much benefit IMO.

As for the Z32 MC, you could just plug the holes you don't need... But hey, that's my opinion and I'm just a pessmistic Maxima hater... .

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

I have seen the prices for those things and yea its around $500 for just the calipers and there is no use trying to search for them used. But im looking at running a pretty beefy 4 piston setup upfront, if i can use something other than the Z32 caliper i will, since im more than doubling the hp figures for this car, i really want to have some very solid brakes.

Well your advice is much better than the rest of the crap people around here throw out.

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

Superlites up front and Z32 rear calipers (with no parking brake if you don't care) are where I'd go personally.. With the right pads, that's enough brake to stop 500hp on track. on my S14 race car, I run DTC-60s with Superlites up front and HT-10 in rear on the Z calipers. no issues with heat during 100+ days.
it's as simple as making a bracket for the calipers, but the parking brake is a royal PITA.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

i never leave my car in gear so the parking brake is very important to me. but yes i was looking into superlights for the front, i would just like to have something bigger in the rear also, this is where that MC would be a problem with all 4 corners getting bigger/more pistons, we know it can move that volume of fluid but pedal feel.

HomerMAC

iTrader: (5)

Matt. Would you be able to adapt the wilwood single piston caliper with the ebrake hook to the stock rear. and by adapt, I mean mass produce some brackets to allow bolting up to the rear Oem rotor.

I am tierd of the rear caliper siezing. I am about to just go with the z32s in the rear and ditch the parking brake all together. I dont use the parking brake because when i use it more in the winter, it def. speeds up the siezure of the rear OEM calipers.


calipers in mind.

http://media.photobucket.com/image/r...64X4/brake.jpg

Kevlo911

iTrader: (36)

http://www.airheart-brakes.com/cal-mb1.html
Those look old school, not sure if we can adapt it to our cables.

http://www.ipsco.org/Custom%20Servic...ng%20Brake.htm
Now THOSE I would love to adapt. Look great but same prob as the others, not sure how to adapt to our ebrake cable.

I always figured with Z32 calipers and one of those parkingbrake calipers we could make a bracket that hold both and use um.

Crusher103

iTrader: (10)

wilwood sells a caliper like that first one, its $70 but it can accommodate a disc or .81" thick. That would be very good because we can run much thicker vented rear rotors.

HomerMAC

iTrader: (5)

the pic i used was a pic from google. that is an older model wilwood caliper. the newer one has a refines hook area and also the caliper it self looks a bit dif. But the concept is the same. Also adding the second caliper alone makes the setup a bit more complicated then necessary.

The wilwood alternative caliper was suggested because it can be used for braking and park brake. This would reduce maintinence, complications to the system.

Also I am currently running my BBS 15" basket weave wheels with 4piston calipers in the front, Using this caliper would ensure the 15"s can stay in the back as well.

I have a set of 16"s BBS basket weave for summer, but I really like my 15's with winter tires and would like to continue using them.

I have been talking to the Brian at fastbrakes.com. he said he can make a set of brakets for the rear but they wont work with stock diameter rotor. In the end he wanted a good amount for the brakets and would have to be a larger than stock size rotor.

I want people to have this caliper as an alternative to replacing the stock rear calipers. The OEM ones lock up all the time, esp. in the winters etc. This would be ideal if this can fit on the back with like an 11" rotor just a bit thicker.