For those of you who have been wanting to tune your cars fuel map a bit I have a bit of a solution. The Nissan ECU does the majority of it's fuel tuning based on the MAF reading. So; if you want to lean the injectors out a bit becasue you've installed bigger ones to handle your big ole Vortech blower this is what you do.

The stock MAF on the 2002 is about 70mm or 2.75 inches. The throttle body is actually larger than that at about 75mm. What I did was use some 3" (76.2mm) PVC parts that I got from Lowes and made my own MAF with the stock probe. It certainly did lean out the mixture quite a bit. I had to turn up the fuel pressure to almost 70psi (from 52) in order to get my Stoich gauge to point at the same spot.
I probably wont leave this setup the way it is since it will interfere with my Nitrous setup. I lost way too much duty cycle to run my nitrous now so I'll be putting the stock MAF back on untill I find another alternative or get larger injectors.

 

Wow. Nice. Did you see any performance improvement w/ the bigger maf?

Crappy thing is, I don't think the 3-gen maf probe can be removed like yours. But I'll check again.

 

It can. It's just different. I have done this many times on my '92 SE-R which probably had the same toshiba MAF that you have.

 

off the NOS how did the car run?

Idle ok?

from a dead stop any problems?

Try any highway speed passes?(i.e. from like 70 floor it and see what happened)

thanks

 

wow i think i just had an idea, i good idea at that. wow it's coming to me, omg this is a good idea. you'll see in about a week when i have a proto type done. i'd talk but other people in teh intake business like to replicate what i've done 6-8 months later and say they've been thinking about it forever. just look for pics on monday and you'll see.

 

using pvc is a no no...it can't take the heat that the engine is putting out...heard it puts out toxic fumes...

 

hell of a job

 

You missed the point of the project. But yes you are correct, PVC can't withstand engine heat. Toxic fumes to who, Humans? Probably, to a engine? I doubt an engine would die from poison gas like a human would.

 

Great job! Keep up the good work and keep blazing them trails!!

Brian

 

 

COOL!

 

Bump. For the search impaired.

Cana mode please move this to the All Motor forum?

Thanks

 

Everyone going to ignore this very important four year old thread again?

 

I have a spare A32 MAF but i can't see how i would cut the probe out and mate it to larger piping.

 

You dumb cuz.

Ask Jime how he did it. He did it to the A32 maf IIRC.

 

My MAF-less setup will be functional very soon, by the weekend in fact... allowing me great freedom to begin playing with intake configuration, sizing, length etc.

 

You're not the first one

 

Are you implying you've already gotten around to doing this on your car in the <2 weeks or so you've had an EU? If so you sure must have more free time than I do. Must be nice.

But why does it matter whether I am or am not the first anyways?

That's not the point of my post. I am only adding to Matt's MAF discussion by hinting that with the right tool(s) there is another way to upsize a MAF by getting rid of it all together. This method has its own issues of course but it is another option for those with an EU or standalone. And although he did it for the purpose of adjust fueling via changing the MAF reading/scaling, I am suggesting there can be more than one purpose for changing/removing a MAF also...

 

As with the other info that gets over looked I actually tried this one about a year ago. I bored out the stocker and ran it at the track. Without toching anything else I gained a few tenths of mph. I didnt persue it further because I dont have anything to adjust the fuel, and Im not making enough power IMO to need a bigger maf. At idle the readings are a bit low and it can run slightly rough. I did hook up a DVM and the numbers were slightly lower both at idle and a peak air flow when compared to a stock maf. I wrote down some numbers (voltage readings) if any one cares.
Now that I know how to take apart the maf, i could pop the whole shebang into another tube if needed.

Not pretty at all, but it does lean out the mix.


I do plan on port matching the IM so maybe this will come in handy.

 

I see you have a '91 SE-R. Those are really easy to upgrade. I used to use a 73mm C&L MAF for a Foxbody Mustang, on the '92 SE-R I used to have. The Nissan Hitachi sensor would fit just fine in place of where the Ford Hitachi sensor went. All you had to do at that point was tap new holes and adjust the fuel map.

 

Why anyone would give up the MAF on a street car, I'll never know.

Hacking the MAF is proven/effective, yet eliminating the MAF without absolute control and fine tuning yields drivability issues. Not worth the hassle IMO, but please prove me wrong Dandy/Kevlo.

 

For most people it's not necessary, especially N/A, ...but it is more reasonable for boosted folks. But anyways I'm not most people, I like to experiment, a little hassle/extra effort doesn't bother me and I have a theory or 2 I'd like to test. If I get positive results I will post about it.

As far as the daily driveability goes, I am fairly certain that with tuning time and effort I can make it a non-issue. If I am wrong I'll find out soon enough, simple as that. lol

 

The driveability I have right now with this 77mm MAF, the 390cc injectors and my EB (emanage blue) is far superior to any stock 2k2 on the road. I've driven two near stock 2k3s recently so I know what to compare. The MAF mod alone gets rid of that sorry throttle lag that everyone has been complaining about. But it only works right if you have the piggyback setup correctly.

 

Hey, look what I found in the collection of Maxus 2005 pictures that has been there all along for everyone to see. Few peope ever notice the MAF is different .

 

And the IM is shown clear as day.

Is there any need for the JWT ECU with the Ford MAF on the SR20?

 

For the extended rev limiter there probably is. I had the JWT but at the time I had no way to correct the A/F or even measure it.

 

ITBs....

 

Any idle issues with that intake set-up SR20DEN?

 

None. Keep in mine this thread is four years old. When I first made that thing I didn't even have a SAFC-II. I only put it back on sometime after I got one. And now tha I have the EB, the initial setup was about as close to perfect as one could hope for. I think the biggest A/F correction number I have on my fuel map right now is -3 (that is after the MAF and injector corrections I initially pluged in).

 

I should have specified I was referring to the intake set-up in the picture. Eliminating the valve cover breather through the midpipe.

Mine idles a bit rough with it(breather) d/c'd.

I see yours is compeltely sealed off in the picture, and when I seal mine off, it makes a strange chirping/whining sound.

Any ideas.

 

Oh yeah. I still have that and it's no good. The breather needs to be connected behind the MAF. I just haven't gotten around to it.

 

How about using the VIAS 1/8" port on the IM.. Or does it need to be before the TB, and after the MAF?

 

I was thinking the exact same thing on my way home from work today after seeing the picture. Since the housing is PVC, I wouldn't think it'd be too hard to drill a hole and fab some sort of tubing for that. The only problem might be keeping it secure in behind the MAF.

 

I have a spare maf can you show me how you pulled that sensor out because it doesnt seem to unbolt. where and how did you open it up?

 

nevermind i got it out but the red part on the sensor i nicked it with the dremil and one copper strand is sticking up ill just resin it down hope its not a big deal

 

it won't work anymore. btw, you don't have to cut anything to get the sensor out of the MAF housing.

 

Oh i hope it works and i cut all the plastic away from the sensor in the tube

 

Why wont it work? As long as the sensor or "wire" isnt cut he should be fine.

 

I popped off the square top, then desoldered the plug inside, maybe I had to separate 2 PC boards also, I dont recall. Then take out the 4 screws holding in the plug and remove it, I think there are a couple more screws to pull the sensor out. Sorry its been a while since I did it.

 

I wouldn't use the hot-wire without that little "housing" it has. I'm sure it's there to smooth out the airflow entering the MAF or something else that's purposeful.