I'll do a writeup later this week, and I'm going to try to get to the dyno stand by Friday, too.

First impressions:

The good:

The 00VI seems to very nicely restore the low end power that the MEVI loses. The dyno will tell whether or not this impression is real or I am imagining things, but I will be surprised if it is not true.


The bad:

The junkyard 00VI I got binds up when the engine gets hot. I loosened the mounting bolts and retightened with the engine warm, which improved the situation some, but not completely. I'm not sure what to do about this except take the power valve out and open up some clearances. Are any of you 5th gen guys aware of a fix for this?

 

I would try to lubricate it before trying to "open up clearances."

Just a thought.

 

I had thought of that, but I'm a little skeptical that will fully work. Worth doing first, though.

Also, the power valve rotates on plastic rings that look like piston rings. Maybe the grooves get gunked up and need to be cleaned out.

 

Awesome Job man. a write up would be nice for the hopefuls like myself out there. MEVI must have been a substantial loss if you can "feel" the diffrence.

 

Argh you beet me to installing it. I will have mine on next week. What is the binding up you are talking about?

 

The power valve (analogous to the butterflies in the MEVI) should be able to freely rotate inside the 00vi. When the engine gets heat soaked the power valve gets real sticky and won't rotate freely. If you force it open, then it won't rotate all the way back to the closed position unless you force it closed. It feels like the assembly clearances inside the IM are closing up due to thermal expansion.

 

Maybe this is what has caused some people's power valves to fail....

 

Thats prob why the dek has a water control valve with a extra water passage for cooling. My engine got super hot but my valve never was affected. Could it be because yours didnt get bolted down exactly as was intended.

That could be why peoples valves fail but i would believe its faulty from the factory the rod wasnt given enough clearence for exspansion. Because it wiggles in there very freely it seems they designed it with some spare room.

 

Maybe. But this seems to be a problem with some DE-K 5th gens, too, not just mine.

 

That's what I'm thinking, too.

 

Yes probably thats what the reason for there vias rods to snap in the cup.

I have a spare IM ,if you want to try it and see if this ones fine.

 

Actually, I have a spare one too, but I did quite a bit of material removal at the IM throat to match it to the Pathfinder TB, so I want to make this one work if at all possible. Thanks for the offer, though.

 

Stephen max your impressions of the MEVI vs. 00VI was with 00VI you felt more at low end than MEVI. Are the gains that much were you can actually feel it at low end? It seems to me that's what most 00VI orgers say. As soon as I get my MEVI I will also do a dyno compare MEVI vs. 00VI for my setup. Then we can see exactly what the differences are, looking forward to your numbers though.

Is it the runner length/design that causes this prob on the MEVI or the design of the butterfly housing?

 

Is your egr stuff gone?

 

It's still there, but it's not hooked up.

 

Is it running fine like that?

 

nice. I might have to get in touch with you and see if you can't give me a few tips on installing mine when it comes in.

 

I thougt the 00 injectors had to be used when doing this? But I know your running 370's?

 

He used the 4th gen lower IM

 

Yessir.






12345

 

As Nismo pointed out, I am using the 4th gen lower IM. I had to do a little bit of modification to get it to work. You'll get all the information if you look in:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....8&page=2&pp=30

starting with post #44.

 

I'm about to do this and wondering what you did with the IAC?

Mooney

 

I left the IACV connected electrically, but it is not bolted onto the engine anywhere (it's dangling behind the IM). Yeah, I know, kinda ghetto, but it sure simplifies things. I control idle speed the old fashioned way with the butterfly adjustment screw. This works fine once the engine is warmed up. When the engine is cold it idles low, but it only takes a few minutes to warm up. If you want the IACV, you'll have to do something like what Krismax did.

 

How cold has it gotten where you are? I'm running the '00 IACV and as it gets colder up here, it's getting harder to start. The car will start fine, run at about 1000-1200 rpms for a little bit, and then die. I've got to get in and hold the gas down a little bit and then it'll run fine. I may ditch the IACV for your method if it'll cure the problem.

 

Hey SM, I just received my 00 VI and do you think u can draw out a vacuum diagram for the valve plunger? I Can't figure it out...

 

Tilleys way is easy and works he put a plate on the back of the IACV and put a barb in it then ran the hose to one off the IM ports.

 

^^^ Hmm thats a great idea... Does he have any idle issues from sucking in air through a hose? Does the barb and hose have to be atleast a certain diameter?


SM: Do the 2 rear bolts that support the IM line up with the 4th gen bracket?

 

Removing the IACV is doable? I've always wondered about that. You leave it in connected to not throw codes correct? I know one of the plugs is for A/C adjustment and the other is for Power Steering adjustment. I don't have either and I store it in the winter so the cold startup isn't an issue. What is the last plug for? Does it throw codes if totally disconnected?

 

This morning it was about 28 F. I put a thin sheet of metal (a boxcutter blade, actually) between the butterfly adjuster screw and the arm thingy to open up the throttle another mm or so, and it started right up and idled at about 1600 rpm. I let it warm up like that while I ate breakfast.

 

[QUOTE=Nismo3112SM: Do the 2 rear bolts that support the IM line up with the 4th gen bracket?[/QUOTE]

They might, but I doubt it. I didn't even try to make them line up. They were in the way while I was trying to get the IM installed, so I bent them backwards out of the way. Maybe Krismax or BSwithTF or Tilley knows.

 

The tan colored plug is the stepper motor that the ecu uses to control idle speed. I would think it would definitely throw a CEL if disconnected.

 

I haven't figured it out yet myself. I just use the vacuum canister, solenoid valve and vacuum line left over from the MEVI. The vacuum hose connects to the port at the power actuater.

 

I took it apart the other night and cleaned up the power valve and lubricated it with lithium grease. It has not bound up since then, so I guess that is all it needed.

 

You said your EGR stuff was still there, Which tube did you plug up ? The one going to the exhaust mani, or the pipe going to the IM?

 

I think your problem was that it had been sitting for awhile in a junkyard and the rubber o-rings had dried up from the normal lubricating EGR vapor junk.

The one I tore apart still had plenty of oily residue to act as a lubricant, however when I put it back together I used syn oil on all the o-rings and it seemed to freely rotate.

 

You need to turn down your fuel pressure to compensate for the 240cc-->290cc injector increase. Krismax didn't have a problem, but he was using a 4th gen IAC and StephenMax doesn't have a problem because he opened up the throttle plate and is running 370cc w/JWT ECU.

Just something you might consider.

 

You don't need to plug anything except the vacuum hose that controls the egr valve. Just remove the vacuum hose that controls the egr valve and plug it. Without vacuum the valve won't open and no exhaust will leak out.

 

Why not remove the EGR stuff to make the car 6+Ibs lighter?

 

How do you turn down the fuel pressure? I've checked the Hanye's manual and searched the internet.


Stephen Max: About how long would this take to swap?


Mooney

 

You have to have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator.