Advantages of full 3.5 in 4th gen, as oppossed to 3.5 bottem with 3.0 heads?
Advantages of full 3.5 in 4th gen, as oppossed to 3.5 bottem with 3.0 heads?
I am still debating but I'm on the quest, if I stay hybrid (3.5 bottem with 3.0 head) I will be using the .70mm PF TB, '00 VI, JWT ECU (later on), and Cattman Headers, I do not want to run boost anytime in the near future or future... I can also go full 3.5 but am worried about CEL Lights, reliability, I know the CR will be lower than the hybrid but like I said I'm not looking for boost. So what other advantages other than a lower CR that would allow for boost would be present with going full 3.5 as oppossed to hybrid with above mentioned mods? Thanks!
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
The 00 jwt ecu won't be able to control the VTCs or deal with the drive by wire
Originally Posted by dmontzsta
I am curious to know this also, I think the 3.5 head has bigger valves? or I would imagine so. It is certainly easier if you are going to use a 3.0 manifold.
And valvetrain is much lighter for quicker reving.
What upgrade? Are you saying JWT will be able to upgrade the 00' ecu to accomodate the 3.5 VTCs??? That's a whole lot of ecu programming. Unless someone already knows this can be done, I seriously doubt JWT can do it.
Originally Posted by HarrisH
Well thats what I'm saying I still have not got the ECU upgrade I'm still debating..
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
What upgrade? Are you saying JWT will be able to upgrade the 00' ecu to accomodate the 3.5 VTCs??? That's a whole lot of ecu programming. Unless someone already knows this can be done, I seriously doubt JWT can do it.
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
What upgrade? Are you saying JWT will be able to upgrade the 00' ecu to accomodate the 3.5 VTCs??? That's a whole lot of ecu programming. Unless someone already knows this can be done, I seriously doubt JWT can do it.
From a nissan dyno with the VTC on and off there was no power gain over 3000rpm so it doesnt change peak power but makes a aggressive cam feel alot more streetable. And the power gain from 2000-3000 was like 3-4 hp
Originally Posted by krismax
I agree i tried to get them to unprogram the egr system and they said they couldnt to hard.
From a nissan dyno with the VTC on and off there was no power gain over 3000rpm so it doesnt change peak power but makes a aggressive cam feel alot more streetable. And the power gain from 2000-3000 was like 3-4 hp
From a nissan dyno with the VTC on and off there was no power gain over 3000rpm so it doesnt change peak power but makes a aggressive cam feel alot more streetable. And the power gain from 2000-3000 was like 3-4 hp
Well there is alot of conditions that the ecu takes into account to run the VTCs. The VE30DE vtcs are fairly complicated. But if what you say is true, then maybe you guys can stick the intake cams in one position.
Also dont forget reliability. As tought as our motors are, raising the compression will put more tear and wear from the stress on the engine over THE LONG RUN. So it depends. If you wanna keep the car for years and years, I'd do the whole 3.5, since it wont wear out faster than a regular 3.5. On the other hand, a hybrid 3.0/3.5 should still be reliable, however it should wear out at a faster rate than a regular 3.0 or 3.5.
I'm gonna do the entire 3.5 just because I want the better flowing heads and VI.
I'm gonna do the entire 3.5 just because I want the better flowing heads and VI.
Originally Posted by el_maxima_315
how much do you think the costing is?
Originally Posted by el_maxima_315
another question i have, i want to change my rear lights to a 97 and up tail leds. what would i need to do?
Tiley went from a 3.5block/3.0head to 3.5 heads and gained 30hp or so through the mid range. All he had to do was modify the cams and the timing components. Theoreticaly it should be just as reliable as a natural vq35de if everything is done properly
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but you are saying IT SHOULD BE JUST AS RELIABLE AS A vq35 if everything is done properly. i say if you want a vq35 in your car do the whole swap and stop messing around with different engines trying to figure out how to make the 2 of them work like a reagular vq35 should work.
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
but you are saying IT SHOULD BE JUST AS RELIABLE AS A vq35 if everything is done properly. i say if you want a vq35 in your car do the whole swap and stop messing around with different engines trying to figure out how to make the 2 of them work like a reagular vq35 should work.
Here is what I found, so he gained in a 1000rpm(4.2K-5.2K), but lost after that:
Originally Posted by TILLEYS99
Well #s are in 
didnt gain much peak power but did gain alot of mid range (20whp/26tq between 4.2 and 5.2k). 232.79whp 230.09tq. 2k2 manifold has poor flow compared to the 00VI both HP/Tq dropped after 5.5k so there is more power to gain especially on top end.
didnt gain much peak power but did gain alot of mid range (20whp/26tq between 4.2 and 5.2k). 232.79whp 230.09tq. 2k2 manifold has poor flow compared to the 00VI both HP/Tq dropped after 5.5k so there is more power to gain especially on top end.
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
but you are saying IT SHOULD BE JUST AS RELIABLE AS A vq35 if everything is done properly. i say if you want a vq35 in your car do the whole swap and stop messing around with different engines trying to figure out how to make the 2 of them work like a reagular vq35 should work.
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ok you guys are going to start this discussion again? i am just trying to give you guys useful info by saying that doign the 3.5 swap that is complete is the best way to go. and you guys need to stop saying that my bro did this swap. he helped out on it yes i admit that but everything else i did so you guys have no proof that he did the swap. you guys are just saying that. ands the whole point of this thread is to give opinions o nwhat he should do and not do.
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
ok you guys are going to start this discussion again? i am just trying to give you guys useful info by saying that doign the 3.5 swap that is complete is the best way to go. and you guys need to stop saying that my bro did this swap. he helped out on it yes i admit that but everything else i did so you guys have no proof that he did the swap. you guys are just saying that. ands the whole point of this thread is to give opinions o nwhat he should do and not do.
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Here is what I found, so he gained in a 1000rpm(4.2K-5.2K), but lost after that:
He used the 5.0 gen TB for the "hybrid" dyno and a modified 5.5gen TB for the "full" dyno.
Too many variables still to say for sure whether the VQ35 manifold/head combo were superior to the DEK combo, except between 4200-5200rpm. I'd bet the ECU tuning is the real limit of the full VQ35 stomping the VQ30 heads/IM.
Too many variables still to say for sure whether the VQ35 manifold/head combo were superior to the DEK combo, except between 4200-5200rpm. I'd bet the ECU tuning is the real limit of the full VQ35 stomping the VQ30 heads/IM.
Originally Posted by nismology
Another interesting thing to consider is that he was using the stock 55mm 4th gen TB when he dyno'd the hybrid setup. Not only that, the 00VI he used was held open throughout. If he'd used a PF TB, properly working 00VI, and did some head work im pretty sure he would've put down much better #'s.
Originally Posted by deezo
Keep in mind that the more configurations of engines that are out there, the more interesting our cars will become.
Vsamoylov, I highly respect what you did, but now it seems that your only input is that people should do the same. Point duly taken, but what fun is that if everybody did the same thing? So your opinion just stifles creativity, it is becoming tiresome, and all it does is incite inflammatory comments from certain other people. Please keep it to yourself from now on.
But there are reasons why someone would not want to do a full 3.5 with ecu swap. For instance, I would like to keep my JWT ecu. Another reason is that boosted people may just want to put the better flowing 3.5 heads on a 3.0 bottom in order to lower compression for increased boost capability. Just saying do the full swap and be done with it doesn't address everyone's wants or needs.
I am talking about with 80% of the applications. And I still never said which ECU, there are a few good options.
Putting the VQ35 heads on a VQ30 could cause more issues than it solves. As Mardigras pointed out you don't want to run heads that have a larger diameter combustion chamber than the cylinder bore.
If you want to run a lower compression engine on OE parts you simply destroke the VQ35 with the VQ30 crank. The approximate CRs of this have been listed before.
Putting the VQ35 heads on a VQ30 could cause more issues than it solves. As Mardigras pointed out you don't want to run heads that have a larger diameter combustion chamber than the cylinder bore.
If you want to run a lower compression engine on OE parts you simply destroke the VQ35 with the VQ30 crank. The approximate CRs of this have been listed before.
I am talking about with 80% of the applications. And I still never said which ECU, there are a few good options.
Putting the VQ35 heads on a VQ30 could cause more issues than it solves. As Mardigras pointed out you don't want to run heads that have a larger diameter combustion chamber than the cylinder bore.
If you want to run a lower compression engine on OE parts you simply destroke the VQ35 with the VQ30 crank. The approximate CRs of this have been listed before.
