3.5 Bottom And 3.0 Heads Finnaly Running
#81
Originally Posted by MainSource
I'm interested in doing a 3.5 swap too, about how much does it cost/did it cost you? I'm working with a 97 auto. Any help's greatly appreciated.
#82
Originally Posted by MainSource
I'm interested in doing a 3.5 swap too, about how much does it cost/did it cost you? I'm working with a 97 auto. Any help's greatly appreciated.
Chris
#84
Originally Posted by Pimpmobile
can't wait till I get some cash together to get this done, tilley are you thinking of selling modified timing components so we can use the full vq35?
#86
Originally Posted by krismax
hello I live right over in amsterdam not to far from you. my cars at tilleys getting a 3.5 ,maybe we can meet up after i get it back and you can feel what the 3.5 feels like.
Chris
Chris
#87
Originally Posted by joosdawg
WHAT! where the heck was i when you announced this? 3.5 man now that theres somone else besides jap and tilley thats going to have the 3.5 maybe you will actually take some good videos that we can see it in action kinda like the revving one you have already and outside inside ect. but this time please dont use $HITplayer(real player) format because it blows and skips frames for me or some divx garbage that jap used, at least use somthing that normal people can view like wmv or even better mpg, but im sure youll come through. question is though why does no one understand that people want to see a video that you can actually see and hear the car up close and personal, not in a follow car or revving up to 2K for 5 sec and thats it.
#88
wow 2 for 1 i wasent expecting that one! better make sure that you get a good seat though so we can catch all the action and maybe some videos of the two cars in the pits "warming up" lol aka revving there beasts
#89
Originally Posted by emmas97
call tilleys99 at his shop... he is the one who put japmax's motor together and he spends lots of time working on my max 717-867-0381... ask for tilley
Uhh thats were your wrong dear I did it all by myself well I did call Rob once and thats it lol
#90
Originally Posted by japmaxSE
Uhh thats were your wrong dear I did it all by myself well I did call Rob once and thats it lol
#92
Originally Posted by JClaw
When are you guys going?
#93
I'm not satisfied; yes I'm happy with my hybrid so far some minor issues but it's being solved at the moment. Unfortunately I put the motor in already and now Tilley figures out that "hey you can use the full 3.5 on 3.0 ECU". Now when my first impressions were that it would be allot of work. So I stuck with Hybrid plan and yes I was really impressed with the power. Now that Tilley has the full 3.5 with 20hp + more than the Hybrid I'm itching for the full 3.5 that's the best way to go and there's plenty of room for FI which I plan on doing in the future. Tilley I've been looking around for some 3.5 heads and they are just down right hard to find So I know you have some laying around in that shop of yours ,,,So how bout it...
#96
Just make sure you get a clean dyno BEFORE you do that please.
Originally Posted by japmaxSE
I'm not satisfied; yes I'm happy with my hybrid so far some minor issues but it's being solved at the moment. Unfortunately I put the motor in already and now Tilley figures out that "hey you can use the full 3.5 on 3.0 ECU". Now when my first impressions were that it would be allot of work. So I stuck with Hybrid plan and yes I was really impressed with the power. Now that Tilley has the full 3.5 with 20hp + more than the Hybrid I'm itching for the full 3.5 that's the best way to go and there's plenty of room for FI which I plan on doing in the future. Tilley I've been looking around for some 3.5 heads and they are just down right hard to find So I know you have some laying around in that shop of yours ,,,So how bout it...
#97
Instead of drilling the hole 180 degrees from the orig. hole on the intake cam, and reinserting the pin....
Can you just detach the chain, turn the cam 180 degrees and reattach the chain? Wouldn't that be the same thing as drilling a new pin?
Can you just detach the chain, turn the cam 180 degrees and reattach the chain? Wouldn't that be the same thing as drilling a new pin?
#101
What happened with your tranny?
BTW, did you see this?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=372063
Originally Posted by japmaxSE
Yes sir dyno day is a few weeks or so away $35 & 3 runs
#103
BTW, did you see this?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=372063[/QUOTE]
Damn that's one hell of a deal but how would it par up to a max with over 230whp?
I think it's a good deal but it's still an AUTO but it would be a good deal for a fairly moded max , what do you think?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=372063[/QUOTE]
Damn that's one hell of a deal but how would it par up to a max with over 230whp?
I think it's a good deal but it's still an AUTO but it would be a good deal for a fairly moded max , what do you think?
#104
VB mod, a tranny cooler, and drop resistor mod would help a lot.
Jime has the non-LSD version and has been beating it up with N20 for awhile.
I think if you're smart on driving and don't do brake stands, it will last fine.
5spd is tougher though, but the conversion costs a bit.
Jime has the non-LSD version and has been beating it up with N20 for awhile.
I think if you're smart on driving and don't do brake stands, it will last fine.
5spd is tougher though, but the conversion costs a bit.
Originally Posted by japmaxSE
BTW, did you see this?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=372063
Damn that's one hell of a deal but how would it par up to a max with over 230whp?
I think it's a good deal but it's still an AUTO but it would be a good deal for a fairly moded max , what do you think?
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=372063
Damn that's one hell of a deal but how would it par up to a max with over 230whp?
I think it's a good deal but it's still an AUTO but it would be a good deal for a fairly moded max , what do you think?
#108
Just to keep you guys updated the car still runs fine I'm curently resolving some voltage issues and yes the tranny is slipping even more than ever in 2nd. Other than that the car hauls *** I honostly feel that this car has got to be running high 13's or low 14's as it is now with the slipping tranny. I've raced a couple of cars from a dead stop and all of them being manual I've beat them all by either a 1/2 car length or more from a fully built honda NA to V8 mustang and curently a boxer s. The handa ran a 13.7 at the track thats what he claims. I'm still gathering parts for the 5spd trannny swap but as of now I really want to know what I'm puting down but right now it's not ready I hope soon before dyno day .
#112
Can't wait to see the dyno results. From your experience so far would you have kept this swap or did the full 3.5? I am undecided on whether to go with ur setup or do the full swap, which would you guys say would yeild to more power gains?
I have the money right now to get a used 3.5 motor which allows me to do either or but which would you guys recommend?
I have the money right now to get a used 3.5 motor which allows me to do either or but which would you guys recommend?
#113
Originally Posted by jcy98maxse
Can't wait to see the dyno results. From your experience so far would you have kept this swap or did the full 3.5? I am undecided on whether to go with ur setup or do the full swap, which would you guys say would yeild to more power gains?
I have the money right now to get a used 3.5 motor which allows me to do either or but which would you guys recommend?
I have the money right now to get a used 3.5 motor which allows me to do either or but which would you guys recommend?
Well the best way to answer your question is both are good in our 4thgens. The Hybrid is allot easier to do and requires no fabing or anything like that. With the Hybrid your comp will be raised to 11.3:1 and FI or NOs will be risky that's what others here say but I think otherwise with proper tuning I think I can still spray or go Boost. But later I will do the full 3.5 might as well the heads flow better even tho I port&polished my 3.0 heads on my Hybrid setup I'm not sure if it's flowing better than the 3.5 heads. Full 3.5 requires a little more work wait allot more work if your going to use the VTC if not it's just as easy as putting in the Hybrid. When I dyno my car we will find out with my mods compared to Tilleys full 3.5. Keep in mind I have an Autotragic.
#114
I say full swap is better. Tilley did a hybrid first and then went full.
I am going full 3.5 too, but with ECU and wiring crap. If you buy an Altima engine/ECU instead, you get to use your old 5-speed transmission, since 02-05 Altimas have the same 5-speed tranny, therefore the ECU is good.
I kept my transmission not only because of that but because it has a limited slip, which is pretty rare for maxs.
And for some reason 5-speed Altimas seem to dyno higher. They get the same hp, but about 225-227wtq instead of 218-220wtq compared to 6-speeds. Less drivetrain loss.
Price of parts (converted to US money for you guys)
VQ35DE (02 Altima) 950$ (Can be had for 800$US)
Underdash and engine wiring 320$
Computer from a 5-speed 02 Altima 175$ (This one can be had for 125$)
MAF 140$ (You can get this one for 50$US if you look around)
So I paid about 1585$US for all those parts by looking for them individually. Vasily paid 1550$ for his parts car (02 6-speed). The difference is that I don't have a 6-speed and that I don't have to go through the trouble of taking the engine and wiring out of the parts car.
The VTC doesn't give much more peak hp, but it is said to increase hp and torque by 12% in the low/mid range.
The box with the wiring arrived today and they weren't kidding when they said it'd be the ENTIRE front clip wiring. 47 pounds of spagetti. That **** was a joy to bring up the stairs.
I am going full 3.5 too, but with ECU and wiring crap. If you buy an Altima engine/ECU instead, you get to use your old 5-speed transmission, since 02-05 Altimas have the same 5-speed tranny, therefore the ECU is good.
I kept my transmission not only because of that but because it has a limited slip, which is pretty rare for maxs.
And for some reason 5-speed Altimas seem to dyno higher. They get the same hp, but about 225-227wtq instead of 218-220wtq compared to 6-speeds. Less drivetrain loss.
Price of parts (converted to US money for you guys)
VQ35DE (02 Altima) 950$ (Can be had for 800$US)
Underdash and engine wiring 320$
Computer from a 5-speed 02 Altima 175$ (This one can be had for 125$)
MAF 140$ (You can get this one for 50$US if you look around)
So I paid about 1585$US for all those parts by looking for them individually. Vasily paid 1550$ for his parts car (02 6-speed). The difference is that I don't have a 6-speed and that I don't have to go through the trouble of taking the engine and wiring out of the parts car.
The VTC doesn't give much more peak hp, but it is said to increase hp and torque by 12% in the low/mid range.
The box with the wiring arrived today and they weren't kidding when they said it'd be the ENTIRE front clip wiring. 47 pounds of spagetti. That **** was a joy to bring up the stairs.
#115
At the moment, I intend to just do the hybrid swap because I would still like to retain my JWT ecu and it would be a lot less work than the full swap. I didn't want to go with a full swap unless I could have VTC also. I appreiciate you guys' opinion, like Japmax, I can see myself swapping the 3.5 head over and eventually having a full swap but I think there is a budget I want to spend which wouldn't allow me to get the 3.5 harness nor the ecu. Jap & JClaw, I'll be getting in touch with you guys if I have any questions when I do my swap, would that be alright with you?
Also Jap- are you running on your 3.0 TB or a pathfinder 3.5? I read somewhere on Tilley's thread that that he had the Pathfinder TB for a day and it did wonders for the motor. Was that on his turbo motor or the na motor?
Also Jap- are you running on your 3.0 TB or a pathfinder 3.5? I read somewhere on Tilley's thread that that he had the Pathfinder TB for a day and it did wonders for the motor. Was that on his turbo motor or the na motor?
#116
Originally Posted by jcy98maxse
Jap & JClaw, I'll be getting in touch with you guys if I have any questions when I do my swap, would that be alright with you?
Pulling the motor out Thursday or Friday. Saturday I work and Sunday I'll take the occasion to do some touch-ups with my underpowered sand-blast machine (it's got little rust spots under the car here and there) since it's the only time the motor is out. I'll get them to deliver the VQ35 Monday or Tuesday and hopefully by late next week I'll have a VQ35-powered 4th gen.
Wish me luck.
#117
Bumping this ooooold thread. I know the OP was using 3.5 cams on the 3.0 head, but was that more for power? In other words, do you HAVE to use the 3.5 cams (or equivalent), or can you get away w/ using the 3.0 cams.
I'm curious b/c I was pondering an engine rebuild (preferably using 3.5 block; more powerful afterall)
I'm curious b/c I was pondering an engine rebuild (preferably using 3.5 block; more powerful afterall)
#118
Bumping this ooooold thread. I know the OP was using 3.5 cams on the 3.0 head, but was that more for power? In other words, do you HAVE to use the 3.5 cams (or equivalent), or can you get away w/ using the 3.0 cams.
I'm curious b/c I was pondering an engine rebuild (preferably using 3.5 block; more powerful afterall)
I'm curious b/c I was pondering an engine rebuild (preferably using 3.5 block; more powerful afterall)
#119
You can use any VQ cams. He used the 3.0 head because in 2004 they didn't know you could use the 3.5 head and run the 3.0 ecu. He used the 3.5 cams because they are more aggressive than the 3.0 cams and are compatible with the 3.0 head. You could run the 3.0 cams on either the 3.0 or the 3.5 if you wanted to, but it would be less power.
If the full swap is easier I wouldn't mind doing that. Hell, I wouldn't mind throwing 3.5 internals in the 3.0 block if it wouldn't require too much extra headache.
#120
Okay cool that makes sense. I guess I'm just pondering what the path of least resistance would be. My engine doesn't have as many miles on it as other dek's (125k) but I'm planning on keeping her for longer than awhile and wanted a rebuild. With that said, I'd rather go in the 3.5 direction if I'm going to get it rebuilt.
If the full swap is easier I wouldn't mind doing that. Hell, I wouldn't mind throwing 3.5 internals in the 3.0 block if it wouldn't require too much extra headache.
If the full swap is easier I wouldn't mind doing that. Hell, I wouldn't mind throwing 3.5 internals in the 3.0 block if it wouldn't require too much extra headache.
I would just throw a set of 3.5 cams on your DE-K. Get them drilled and buy the JWT spacer. The amount of power you get would get you close to a 3.5 swap and it would cost you a lot less.