Since you were VERY helpful explaining before, could you elaborate on this statement more?

Could there be a way to use the VQ35 gear/pulley as a template like Tilley does to drill the new VQ30 dowl pins instead of "eyeballing" it?

Or am I missing something?

 

Okay...looking at these VQ35 VTC pully pics...there would be nothing to use as a template, right?




vs. VQ30 pic

 

Anyone have a pic of how the VQ30 timing sprocket and dowl pin interface?

 

It seems like what you could do is note the orientation of the VQ30 intake cam relative to the exhaust cam with the cams in the head and the timing chain and sprockets in place and timing marks aligned with the chain, then swap in the VQ35 cams maintaining the same orientation (I guess that is the hard part), mark and drill. This assumes that the cam orientation at maximum valve lift is the same for both VQ30 and VQ35 cams.

 

I think we were discussing putting in a VQ35(block/heads/cams), but using the VQ30 timing cover, chain, sprockets, etc.. not putting VQ35 cams in a VQ30.

The VQ35 cam postion to VQ30 cam timing sprocket seems to be the question/dilema. Tilley chose to drill the VQ35 cam to match the VQ30 timing sprocket, however that requires removing the cams or is that just to send to Tilley for drilling?

What I thought you had suggested was to leave the VQ35 cams in place(my preference) and just remove/drill the VQ30 cam timing sprockets and clock the cams to proper position, right?

 

Suggestion. Mark tdc on the vq30 cam. Then scribe that point onto the sprocket. Hopefully it lines up to either the tip or valley of the sprocket. Then draw a straight line down. Now it's divided into 2 180 deg sections. Keep dividing up the sprockets until you have it to 180/90/45/22.5/11.25 sections. If you are lucky, it will line up on the tips of the spocket gears.

Then do the same to the 3.5 cam. From there you should know at what degree you have to put the new hole so the 3.5 cam is timed the same as the 3.0 cam.

Of course you still have to actually drill the hole in the right spot too. (ie.. how far from the center of the sprocket......)

 

Well, what I am doing is putting VQ35 cams into VQ30 heads, so that is what I was thinking of. But it doesn't matter, does it? The outcome is still the same. I think. My head hurts.

 

VQ35 cams in VQ30 heads requires removing/installing the cams anyways, so sending them out to be drilled or drilling them yourself using the VQ30 cam as a template wouldn't make much of a labor difference.

However, for VQ35 transplants...IMHO...leaving the VQ35 cams in place and buying a VQ35 predrilled VQ30 timing sprocket would be ideal.

I'm sure if there was a decent amount of demand, I doubt it, someone could have new timing sprockets made in batches or maybe Tilley would drill OEM ones on an exchange basis.

 

The idea of drilling the timing sprockets instead of the cams would definantly work, because the 3.5 intake cams already have a big dowel pin hole, just need a dowel pin. You line up the cam to TDC, install a dowel pin, and mark the spots where the sprockets would be drilled. But the idea of using the 3.5 sprockets/chain and making marks for the 3.0 cam sensor to read would be extremely difficult.



This is a pic of the right bank intake cam from a 3.0, at TDC, the dowel pin would face 10 o'clock (left bank cam faces 2 o'clock). If it were a 3.5 cam, the yellow dot is aproximately where the sprocket would have to be drilled, (there is already a dowel hole right there on the cam). The exsisting groove outlined in red, would have to stay at 10 o'clock. Also at 10 o'clock, the exhaust cam sprocket (which does not need to be modded) will line up with the painted (factory) mark, if everything is done correctly.

Yeah, they only had to be removed so I could send them to Tilley. It (i think) would be possible to drill the cams while on the engine, but I would rather take them out. Just a couple more bolts.

 

is it possible to drill the intake cams while still on the engine

 

It is, but you need to take every possible precaution to prevent chips from landing where you don't want them. Mask off and cover everything except the cam, and have somebody hold a shop vac hose next to the drill bit as you drill.

Also, don't drill all the way through cam. You don't want the dowel to migrate up against the cam bracket and cylinder head after you have the engine running.

 

Talk about thread resurrection

 

yeah almost a year old but thanks for the info makes it alot easier

 

hey i have a 1994 maxima...wanting to do 3.5 swap and set the standard for this swap..lol..nobody has ever done it to my knowledge...i think it would be very similar to doing the swap with the 4th gen maximas...i would just need 4th gen parts that were used with the swap correct?...in theory i would copy the methods used here and modify little things to make them work...custom axles...custom mounts...prolly crossmember ..linkage and other misc custom fab parts for fitting issues..i thnk....not sure about hubs or suspenion though...any input please!!thanks

 

#1- Welcome to maxima.org
#2- Its been done before. This cat with a 3rd gen put a VQ30 (cant recall if DE or DEK), but the point is, if the 3.0 can go in there, the 3.5 can go in there the same way he did it... so sorry meng you wont be setting any standards
#3- You're new here, so its understandable that you bring up old dead threads (at least it shows you somewhat looked around), but dont bring up threads so old, the mods will ban you for a few days for it

Welcome

 

I actually just learned ton from reading this.

Anyone think this should be put in the 3.5 stickies?

 

I don't, it's sortof a waste of time to read, altima parts < maxima parts. And all the cam sprocket info is in the oldschool sticky.

But I think something should be added to the oldschool faq.

YOU MUST USE THE 3.0 CAM DOWELS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!