3.5 swap w/ ecu & e-gas - no full car re-wire
#42
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187
BTW this is a great thread. Pioneering folk like you eng92 are the ones who make great leaps and bounds as to what is possible with these cars.
#43
Originally Posted by Studio718
just give me 4 weeks and I'll show you my standalone engine managment system
sorry, i'm lasy to search. But , i'm also french, so there's about 60% non-unstandable things for me on maxima.org . JClaw is on a french nissan board but he like's more this one .....
I'm VERY familar on mx-3, but for maxima...... I'm trying to...
Lookin forward on a standalone system, for the 3.5 swap on a 4th gen. right after selling my pathfinder 3.5 2001 ( 3.5 on a 4200 lbs )
#44
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Originally Posted by j_bryan
eng92 please keep us posted on the progress of your project. it will be interesting to see how the gains from this swap compare to the 3.5/3.0 ECU others have done.
BTW, are you planning to swap your tranny?
BTW, are you planning to swap your tranny?
My engine is on a stand partially dismantled in the garage. I removed both oil pans to make sure there was nothing unusual going on in the bottom end. I found the plastic nozzle off of an aerosol can when I removed the lower oil pan. It was not chewed up at all so I suspect it got in there when the engine was originally assembled.
I was going to do a complete teardown until I saw the price on a complete engine gasket/seal kit.
In the top end, I am just replacing the valve cover gaskets.
Last night I removed the fuel pump pickup baffle and its mounts from an 03 tank that I have. I will be installing it into my 98 tank so I can use the 03 fuel pump assembly. That will be in a week or so whenever my tank fuel level is low enough that I can work. I have a plan to do this without removing the tank from the vehicle.
I am hitting the wrecking yard tomorrow to grab a couple of underhood relays that are needed for the swap. 1 single pole for the throttle motor and 1 double pole for the ecm.
I will be using my stock 5-spd VLSD tranny.
#45
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
you make it seem like he is the only one that does things like this. lets not forget about other people as well
He's the only one that that simplified the wiring to this extent, at least to my knowledge. I haven't seen you making any good informative posts such as this, and this is not the only post of eng92's I'm referring to. Every single thing he posts is chock full of great info.
Don't go fishing for compliments with me because you won't find any unless you are deserving of them.
#46
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eng92, you found a plastic nozzle i nthe pan? doesnt sound good. and any pics on the baffles of the fuel tank?
and nealoc187, i am not looking for compliments. thats the last thing i want.
and nealoc187, i am not looking for compliments. thats the last thing i want.
#47
Originally Posted by vsamoylov
you make it seem like he is the only one that does things like this. lets not forget about other people as well
hey im not trying to knock u at all but im with neal on this one...of all the threads i have read up on this he is the only one that has given so much info on this subject. when u said u did the swap u never really gave out any info on how u did other then just saying u did it. u seem to only say things ater someone else has already done it to their car.
#48
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Originally Posted by liqidvenom
hey im not trying to knock u at all but im with neal on this one...of all the threads i have read up on this he is the only one that has given so much info on this subject. when u said u did the swap u never really gave out any info on how u did other then just saying u did it. u seem to only say things ater someone else has already done it to their car.
but anyways lets not ***** this thread anymore with this bs which repeats iteslf over time again.
eng92 any progress so far? today i took the 3.5 fuel pump out but what was wondering how you took the baffles out? any pics? also did you leave your pump in gas? i put mine in gas so there wouldnt be a risk of it sitting in the open.
#49
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Originally Posted by vsamoylov
eng92 any progress so far? today i took the 3.5 fuel pump out but what was wondering how you took the baffles out? any pics? also did you leave your pump in gas? i put mine in gas so there wouldnt be a risk of it sitting in the open.
IMPORTANT NOTE: ALL FUEL (LIQUID & VAPOR) MUST BE PURGED FROM THE FUEL TANK BEFORE CARRYING OUT ANY OPERATION THAT MAY PROVIDE AN IGNITION SOURCE (IE. DRILLING, GRINDING, CUTTING, WELDING, ETC.)
I ASSUME NO LIABILITY FOR PERSONAL INJURY AND/OR DEATH OR PROPERTY DAMAGE OCCURING AS A RESULT OF UNSAFE WORK PRACTICES BEING CARRIED OUT.
#51
good work ..
i am having small question ...
i found an engine for altima 3.5 , so can i swap my 95 max to 3.5 ??
can i use my 3.0 trenny with 3.5 or not ?
please give me curing answer .. thanks
i am having small question ...
i found an engine for altima 3.5 , so can i swap my 95 max to 3.5 ??
can i use my 3.0 trenny with 3.5 or not ?
please give me curing answer .. thanks
#52
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Originally Posted by vsamoylov
and i am guessing you didnt remove the 3.0 baffle yet?
#54
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Originally Posted by liqidvenom
im guessint its not possible to just replace the 4th gen tank with a 5th gen one?
If you are good with a hammer, you might be able to get the 5.5 gen tank profile to suit the 4th gen underbody. I prefer my approach as I should not even have to drop the tank.
#55
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Originally Posted by IceY2K1
eng92 - Why hassle with the VQ35 fuel pump/baffle assembly vs. just running the VQ30 pump or Walbro replacement?
There really isn't much aftermarket support for imports where I live. For an inline fuel pump and fpr, I would be looking at about $250 cdn + shipping.
I didn't find out about the tank baffles beiing different until I opened up my tank and compared the two pump/sending unit assemblies.
I don't really find it much of a hassle. I "putter" around with this project an hour here and there as a method of "de-stressing" at the end of the day.
IMO car related work only becomes a hassle when you have to get it running for the next day and something breaks and all the parts stores are closed.
#59
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Originally Posted by liqidvenom
is there any new info on this profect that you have running....im holding my breath for u to finish so i can follow in your foot steps in this swap
Last night I put the upper and lower oil pans back on. Prior to that I have not done anything with this in almost a month.
With the nice weather here, there are just too many other higher priority home projects that can be worked on.
#61
a fall profect huh.....i really was hoping u would have been done by the end of the summer so i can see if its better to follow u or jclaws route or just go boost.
i really like the whole 3.5 idea and having the 3.5 ecu was goign to be a positive for me, but ill wait n see
i really like the whole 3.5 idea and having the 3.5 ecu was goign to be a positive for me, but ill wait n see
#63
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Originally Posted by vsamoylov
you get your 2k3 fuel pump assembly in yet?
With a little luck, I hope to see some headers in late August so I can finally get this project rolling.
#64
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Yeah I am also waiting for Cattman to make their next batch of headers so I can get some for my vq35. Keep us updated on this project though.
#65
you know you can also use a modified 300z fuel pump in the 3.0 tank? I dont know how far your into it at this point but something you might want to think about, I dont have a price handy at the moment but I could get it.
#66
Will Greddy Emanage Ultimate or another piggy-back system allow the 3.0 ECU to control the vct on a VQ35 swap?
Tried their website and google and found some things that looked promising like the VTTC and VTEC support but I want to make sure.
Tried their website and google and found some things that looked promising like the VTTC and VTEC support but I want to make sure.
#67
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
Looks like Greddy Emanage Ultimate Supports Nissans NVCS (VTC) so it looks like this could be another option for those looking for a 3.5 swap with VTC without the rewire job of the 3.5 ECU. The route JClaws is taking with the 300zx ECU seems pretty interesting too, I hope he keeps us posted.
For more info on NVCS see this post
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=262261
Looks like Greddy Emanage Ultimate Supports Nissans NVCS (VTC) so it looks like this could be another option for those looking for a 3.5 swap with VTC without the rewire job of the 3.5 ECU. The route JClaws is taking with the 300zx ECU seems pretty interesting too, I hope he keeps us posted.
For more info on NVCS see this post
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=262261
#69
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According to Mr. Catts, I may see my headers as early as the end of next week.
If I have time this weekend, I will be pulling out the old engine and tranny.
For anyone using wrecking yard motors, save yourself some grief and do a leakdown test while the engine is still under warranty. Do not believe the compression test results that the wrecker gives you.
I performed a leakdown test on mine and found I was getting terrible leakage (~60% on some cyls.) A lot of this was through the exhaust valves. You will get considerable leakage past the rings, but that is normal on a cold engine.
I ended up tearing the engine down to the bare block and crank. There was a lot of burnt oil on the top of the pistons and in the combustion chamber. The head gaskets were fine so the oil would have either come up past the rings or through the intake system as blow-by. It may have been a combination of the two as both compression rings had a lot of caked oil in the grooves and the inside of the manifold and plenum were very "oily".
The cylinder walls and con rod bearings were all in pristine condition so I just replaced all the rings and lapped all the valves. Now, I only have 10-15% leakage on all the cylinders with no detectable leakage at the intake or exhaust ports at 100psi.
If I have time this weekend, I will be pulling out the old engine and tranny.
For anyone using wrecking yard motors, save yourself some grief and do a leakdown test while the engine is still under warranty. Do not believe the compression test results that the wrecker gives you.
I performed a leakdown test on mine and found I was getting terrible leakage (~60% on some cyls.) A lot of this was through the exhaust valves. You will get considerable leakage past the rings, but that is normal on a cold engine.
I ended up tearing the engine down to the bare block and crank. There was a lot of burnt oil on the top of the pistons and in the combustion chamber. The head gaskets were fine so the oil would have either come up past the rings or through the intake system as blow-by. It may have been a combination of the two as both compression rings had a lot of caked oil in the grooves and the inside of the manifold and plenum were very "oily".
The cylinder walls and con rod bearings were all in pristine condition so I just replaced all the rings and lapped all the valves. Now, I only have 10-15% leakage on all the cylinders with no detectable leakage at the intake or exhaust ports at 100psi.
#70
Originally Posted by Hitmanforprez
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW
Looks like Greddy Emanage Ultimate Supports Nissans NVCS (VTC) so it looks like this could be another option for those looking for a 3.5 swap with VTC without the rewire job of the 3.5 ECU. The route JClaws is taking with the 300zx ECU seems pretty interesting too, I hope he keeps us posted.
For more info on NVCS see this post
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=262261
Looks like Greddy Emanage Ultimate Supports Nissans NVCS (VTC) so it looks like this could be another option for those looking for a 3.5 swap with VTC without the rewire job of the 3.5 ECU. The route JClaws is taking with the 300zx ECU seems pretty interesting too, I hope he keeps us posted.
For more info on NVCS see this post
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=262261
#71
Originally Posted by eng92
According to Mr. Catts, I may see my headers as early as the end of next week.
If I have time this weekend, I will be pulling out the old engine and tranny.
For anyone using wrecking yard motors, save yourself some grief and do a leakdown test while the engine is still under warranty. Do not believe the compression test results that the wrecker gives you.
I performed a leakdown test on mine and found I was getting terrible leakage (~60% on some cyls.) A lot of this was through the exhaust valves. You will get considerable leakage past the rings, but that is normal on a cold engine.
I ended up tearing the engine down to the bare block and crank. There was a lot of burnt oil on the top of the pistons and in the combustion chamber. The head gaskets were fine so the oil would have either come up past the rings or through the intake system as blow-by. It may have been a combination of the two as both compression rings had a lot of caked oil in the grooves and the inside of the manifold and plenum were very "oily".
The cylinder walls and con rod bearings were all in pristine condition so I just replaced all the rings and lapped all the valves. Now, I only have 10-15% leakage on all the cylinders with no detectable leakage at the intake or exhaust ports at 100psi.
If I have time this weekend, I will be pulling out the old engine and tranny.
For anyone using wrecking yard motors, save yourself some grief and do a leakdown test while the engine is still under warranty. Do not believe the compression test results that the wrecker gives you.
I performed a leakdown test on mine and found I was getting terrible leakage (~60% on some cyls.) A lot of this was through the exhaust valves. You will get considerable leakage past the rings, but that is normal on a cold engine.
I ended up tearing the engine down to the bare block and crank. There was a lot of burnt oil on the top of the pistons and in the combustion chamber. The head gaskets were fine so the oil would have either come up past the rings or through the intake system as blow-by. It may have been a combination of the two as both compression rings had a lot of caked oil in the grooves and the inside of the manifold and plenum were very "oily".
The cylinder walls and con rod bearings were all in pristine condition so I just replaced all the rings and lapped all the valves. Now, I only have 10-15% leakage on all the cylinders with no detectable leakage at the intake or exhaust ports at 100psi.
#72
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Originally Posted by nismology
Did you hone the cylinder walls before reinstalling the pistons?
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Well, the headers are still atleast a week away as they have not shipped yet, but I decided to get this project started anyways.
I removed the engine and transmission last night.
I am retaining my stock VLSD 5 spd tranny so the next step is to get a spacer ring machined so that I can use the 3.5 crankshaft timing ring on my 3.0 flywheel. I can get laser cutting done pretty cheap through my work so I will get the basic ring profile cut and clearance holes for the bolts made that way. The process is not accurate enough for the dowel pin holes, so I will just use the original bolt-on 3.0 timing ring as a template and match drill them.
When the spacer ring is finished, I will have a local T&D shop centre, degree-index and weld the 3.5 timing ring to it. The weldment will then be balanced.
Hopefully by the time that comes back, my headers will be installed and the engine will be back in the car.
Over the next week or so I will be installing the "pruned" 02 dash harness I made several months ago. I only get 1-2 hours a night to work on it, so it will be a bit of a drawn-out process.
I will keep you all updated and post any noteworthy pics as I go.
I removed the engine and transmission last night.
I am retaining my stock VLSD 5 spd tranny so the next step is to get a spacer ring machined so that I can use the 3.5 crankshaft timing ring on my 3.0 flywheel. I can get laser cutting done pretty cheap through my work so I will get the basic ring profile cut and clearance holes for the bolts made that way. The process is not accurate enough for the dowel pin holes, so I will just use the original bolt-on 3.0 timing ring as a template and match drill them.
When the spacer ring is finished, I will have a local T&D shop centre, degree-index and weld the 3.5 timing ring to it. The weldment will then be balanced.
Hopefully by the time that comes back, my headers will be installed and the engine will be back in the car.
Over the next week or so I will be installing the "pruned" 02 dash harness I made several months ago. I only get 1-2 hours a night to work on it, so it will be a bit of a drawn-out process.
I will keep you all updated and post any noteworthy pics as I go.
#77
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Originally Posted by greenmax95se
good idea, make future motor swaps easier!
For the additional parts costs involved and the incredible amount of extra labor required, it simply would not be worth it for the majority of people.
This is more of a hobby for me and I enjoy the challenge. If it takes four weeks or four months to finish, it really doesn't matter to me. I would like to get it done before the snow flies though, so I can get it dynoed or I will have to wait till spring.
#78
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Quick Update:
With a little bit of luck, the headers should be arriving tomorrow.
The interior wiring is about 90% complete.
Here is a before and after shot of the trimmed down dash wiring harness from an 02/03.
The main harness has been reduced down to 11 connectors. 7 of them are original and the the other four were added so I could make the harness a plug&play affair.
One note for anyone who is going to carry out the swap this way. When you buy your 02/03 ecu, try and get the mounting bracket with it. I have received ecus from wreckers both with and without it. The A33 ecu is considerably smaller than the one for the A32 and the A33 bracket will not fit in the mounting location for the A32.
My solution was just to cut all the unnecessay material off the A33 bracket and rivet it into the A32 bracket.
left - stock 96 bracket------------right - 98 bracket with 02/03 insert
I have one connector left to add in to the stock 98 main harness in order to complete the interior wiring.
The under hood wiring will be next. It consists mainly of adding some fuses and relays to the existing boxes.
With a little bit of luck, the headers should be arriving tomorrow.
The interior wiring is about 90% complete.
Here is a before and after shot of the trimmed down dash wiring harness from an 02/03.
The main harness has been reduced down to 11 connectors. 7 of them are original and the the other four were added so I could make the harness a plug&play affair.
One note for anyone who is going to carry out the swap this way. When you buy your 02/03 ecu, try and get the mounting bracket with it. I have received ecus from wreckers both with and without it. The A33 ecu is considerably smaller than the one for the A32 and the A33 bracket will not fit in the mounting location for the A32.
My solution was just to cut all the unnecessay material off the A33 bracket and rivet it into the A32 bracket.
left - stock 96 bracket------------right - 98 bracket with 02/03 insert
I have one connector left to add in to the stock 98 main harness in order to complete the interior wiring.
The under hood wiring will be next. It consists mainly of adding some fuses and relays to the existing boxes.