How to make 2k2 VIAS work
06-05-2005, 06:02 PM
#1
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How to make 2k2 VIAS work
Since I am not planning on re-installing the 4th gen IACV, how to I make the 2k2 butterfly valve work and open (or close, I don't remember) at 3.8-3.9k like it should in my vq35 4th gen?
Right now I connected the valve vacuum to the one right next to it on the intake manifold. The pipe is like 3 inches long. So, basically, when I floor it it opens. I wan to make it open just before 4k like it should. Where do I hook those vaccum lines instead.
Right now I connected the valve vacuum to the one right next to it on the intake manifold. The pipe is like 3 inches long. So, basically, when I floor it it opens. I wan to make it open just before 4k like it should. Where do I hook those vaccum lines instead.
06-06-2005, 04:38 AM
#4
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Power is addictive. I know it's better that way since it's easier to launch, but there's nothing like passing someone in 4th gear at 2500 rpm. The car flies after 3.5-4k, so I know I am missing some low end.
Maybe I should wait and get the car tuned before deciding if I want more low end.
Maybe I should wait and get the car tuned before deciding if I want more low end.
06-06-2005, 05:05 AM
#5
Originally Posted by JSutter
do you really need all the extra low end torque? dont you think leaving it short runner is better overall?
Why wouldn't he want all that extra low end torque that's the whole point of modding, to get extra power everywhere low, mid, and top end.
06-06-2005, 05:41 AM
#8
Originally Posted by JClaw
It's wierd flooring it in second at low rpms and not getting wheelspin then gradually getting torque steer + spinning as the rpms get higher.
. Maybe one day I can have a 3.5 in my 4th gen like u guys 
06-06-2005, 07:10 AM
#9
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
Here's a pic of how the vacuum lines are routed:
Wire an rpm switch to your vacuum solenoid switch and you're all set.
Wire an rpm switch to your vacuum solenoid switch and you're all set.
Hey Stephan Max - You were doing a swap on someone else's car correct? How did it go?
06-06-2005, 07:40 AM
#10
Originally Posted by Max4Speed
Hey Stephan Max - You were doing a swap on someone else's car correct? How did it go?
It was not really that difficult compared to other things I have done. It took a lot longer than I expected, but I was trying to be super careful and I also took extra time cleaning the valve covers, timing cases and the oil pan so there wouldn't be any oil leaks. The biggest problem I had was with the stupid rebuilt driveshaft from Autozone that kept popping out of the transmission on test drives. I ended up putting the old one back in with a new CV joint boot.
When I first started the engine up it made this horrendous screeching noise. I have heard rebuilt engines do that before for 5-10 seconds or so until the oil pressure builds up, but this time it didn't go away and was a lot louder. I was really worried, but I traced the problem to a loose throttle body bolt that was allowing an air leak between the TB and the intake manifold, past the metal throttle body gasket. The air leak was causing the gasket to vibrate like a clarinet reed. Kind of funny now, but it was scary at the time.
06-06-2005, 07:45 AM
#11
I just read your other thread after I posted here. That was great work. If I decide to use VQ30 timing chain cover then I might be PMing you for some help. Picked up the VQ35 last night. Now need to start transfering parts from my VQ30 to that new beast. Did you polish that timing chain cover? looks really clean. Sorry for all these questions.
06-06-2005, 08:22 AM
#12
Originally Posted by Max4Speed
I just read your other thread after I posted here. That was great work. If I decide to use VQ30 timing chain cover then I might be PMing you for some help. Picked up the VQ35 last night. Now need to start transfering parts from my VQ30 to that new beast. Did you polish that timing chain cover? looks really clean. Sorry for all these questions.
06-06-2005, 01:56 PM
#13
Originally Posted by SDot82
Why wouldn't he want all that extra low end torque that's the whole point of modding, to get extra power everywhere low, mid, and top end.
06-07-2005, 04:43 AM
#16
Originally Posted by JSutter
because even with a stock 3.0 wheel spin is still an issue. its just wasted power. less low end can be an advantage.
06-07-2005, 05:02 AM
#17
Or you can learn when to not mash the gas pedal to the floor. I have the same situation only at high rpm when boost really kicks in. If I'm in first or second, I have to ease up a bit on the gas or lose traction. I'd much rather do that than depower the engine.
06-07-2005, 07:01 AM
#18
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Originally Posted by SDot82
There are other ways to limit wheel spin and still have good low end, like LSD tranny, bigger rims and performance tires. That's just my opinion because I like low end a lot other people might want to wait for their power to kick in.
"performance tires" are often only good for handling. Neal pulled the same 60 foot times on anything from crap all-season tires (like mine) to Toyo T1-S.
The low end is still good enough to put all N/A 3.0's to shame, the only thing is that it's clear that there is considerably more power upper in the rev range when you romp on it.
06-07-2005, 09:34 AM
#19
Originally Posted by JClaw
WTF are you talking about. Bigger wheels will just eat up power, that's why there is less wheelspin. It's been dyno proven many times.
"performance tires" are often only good for handling. Neal pulled the same 60 foot times on anything from crap all-season tires (like mine) to Toyo T1-S.
The low end is still good enough to put all N/A 3.0's to shame, the only thing is that it's clear that there is considerably more power upper in the rev range when you romp on it.
"performance tires" are often only good for handling. Neal pulled the same 60 foot times on anything from crap all-season tires (like mine) to Toyo T1-S.
The low end is still good enough to put all N/A 3.0's to shame, the only thing is that it's clear that there is considerably more power upper in the rev range when you romp on it.
that will limit wheel spin. I never said u will be just as fast or faster. Maybe I was wrong about performance tires but I thought the purpose of them was better grip
. I hope the low end is good enough to put all N/A 3.0's to shame if not it was a waste of time doing the swap. All I was trying to say was that I would want to get the full potential out of my engine.
06-07-2005, 09:43 AM
#20
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Originally Posted by JClaw
WTF are you talking about. Bigger wheels will just eat up power, that's why there is less wheelspin. It's been dyno proven many times.
"performance tires" are often only good for handling. Neal pulled the same 60 foot times on anything from crap all-season tires (like mine) to Toyo T1-S.
The low end is still good enough to put all N/A 3.0's to shame, the only thing is that it's clear that there is considerably more power upper in the rev range when you romp on it.
"performance tires" are often only good for handling. Neal pulled the same 60 foot times on anything from crap all-season tires (like mine) to Toyo T1-S.
The low end is still good enough to put all N/A 3.0's to shame, the only thing is that it's clear that there is considerably more power upper in the rev range when you romp on it.
But that is at a prepped track without alot of power. When making alot of power on the street it is different. I had no traction in 1st and most of 2nd gear with my 215/50/15 Potenza RE950's after I went turbo. My 245/50/15 Z rated Dunlop SP8000's have given me back about 50% of that traction.
IMO and expeirence, it is a different ball game when it comes to tires if your talking about a bolt on 3.0 and a boosted 3.0 or moded 3.5 4th gen.
06-07-2005, 06:11 PM
#21
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
Here's a pic of how the vacuum lines are routed:
Wire an rpm switch to your vacuum solenoid switch and you're all set.
Wire an rpm switch to your vacuum solenoid switch and you're all set.
06-07-2005, 09:29 PM
#22
Originally Posted by JClaw
You won't pull better 60 foots. I challenge you to do better than 2.12 on the street tires... it won't help you like it didn't help SRT-4's.
06-08-2005, 04:58 AM
#23
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Originally Posted by I30tMikeD
That is true in some cases. I also pulled my best steet tire 60' time (2.14) on a pair of off brand salvaged 205/65/15 all season touring tires. This was with a fairly quick 3.0 NA set up puttin down 180 something hp and 180 something torque.
But that is at a prepped track without alot of power. When making alot of power on the street it is different. I had no traction in 1st and most of 2nd gear with my 215/50/15 Potenza RE950's after I went turbo. My 245/50/15 Z rated Dunlop SP8000's have given me back about 50% of that traction.
IMO and expeirence, it is a different ball game when it comes to tires if your talking about a bolt on 3.0 and a boosted 3.0 or moded 3.5 4th gen.
But that is at a prepped track without alot of power. When making alot of power on the street it is different. I had no traction in 1st and most of 2nd gear with my 215/50/15 Potenza RE950's after I went turbo. My 245/50/15 Z rated Dunlop SP8000's have given me back about 50% of that traction.
IMO and expeirence, it is a different ball game when it comes to tires if your talking about a bolt on 3.0 and a boosted 3.0 or moded 3.5 4th gen.
Also did you keep the 215s in the rear and 245 in the front?, or changed all four? I was thinking of going with different tires on the front, but I thought it might affect handling badly.
Also Krismax uses drag radials as his everyday front street tires.
06-09-2005, 11:12 AM
#24
Originally Posted by zack342
DOes anyone have the part number for that 5th Gen vac canister with the check valve i wanna get one so i can use it when install my MEVI.
06-10-2005, 07:38 AM
#25
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Originally Posted by JClaw
Do you pull better 60 foots on the Dunlops?
Also did you keep the 215s in the rear and 245 in the front?, or changed all four? I was thinking of going with different tires on the front, but I thought it might affect handling badly.
Also Krismax uses drag radials as his everyday front street tires.
Also did you keep the 215s in the rear and 245 in the front?, or changed all four? I was thinking of going with different tires on the front, but I thought it might affect handling badly.
Also Krismax uses drag radials as his everyday front street tires.
Have not used the Dunlops at the track.
I am running the Dunlops on all four corners. I don't think it would be wise to run two way different type tires on the front and rear. My 215 were all season high performance.
I have diven around on my DR's once, and for me personally I did not like it.
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