00vi help!
#41
I thought so too but I rechecked them from the stock ones and they run to the same places or as close as possible with the different fitting locations. I personally think that it's cause we didn't use new gaskets and there is a massive air leak somewhere.
Only rewiring we did was of the two ground connections and we ran them to the timing cover.
Only rewiring we did was of the two ground connections and we ran them to the timing cover.
#44
Originally Posted by eckohb
Ok, car starts, runs rough, and turns off after 10 seconds. We're getting
0205 IAC AAC Valve
1008 purge volume control valve
1302 map/baro solenoid valve
0205 IAC AAC Valve
1008 purge volume control valve
1302 map/baro solenoid valve
#45
Originally Posted by Kevlo911
00vi has rubber gaskets that are supposed to be re-used, the lower IM gaskets should be changed, I dout not changing the gaskets can cause that big of a leak.
I'm inclined to think there's something of a larger magnitude incorrect with your setup.
And you already checked that your TPS is adjusted correctly, right?
#47
I know you say you've done it but double, triple, heck - quadruple check all those vacuum and air routings... it's easy to miss something even when you think you've gotten it all right...
#51
Out of curiosity...is the brake booster hose connected? When Nismo and I did my install, we forgot to connect it and the following happened: the car turned over, stayed running for about three seconds and during those three seconds, the idle was all over the place as the car struggled to operate...then it died.
#56
Now that I look at my friend's TB, the vac hose on the bottom of the TB goes to something else... This is where the vac source connects to:
Also to get a better understanding, can you list off where these lines are going to?
Also to get a better understanding, can you list off where these lines are going to?
#57
Originally Posted by eckohb
Ok, car starts, runs rough, and turns off after 10 seconds. We're getting
0205 IAC AAC Valve
1008 purge volume control valve
1302 map/baro solenoid valve
0205 IAC AAC Valve
1008 purge volume control valve
1302 map/baro solenoid valve
#58
Car runs, there is a faint whisling sound but I don't see/feel any leaks except the EGR tube which isn't blocked off. Now, besides the green LED, how do I know the butterflies are opening? I don't hear a change is sound or anything. We have the white wire, normally open, running to the actuator. We tried both the wires coming from the connector and still can't tell a difference.
#66
which one is supposed to be connected to the mid pipe? we have one that was capped, and the other small nipple that isnt supposed to be used. the one that was capped im assuming somehow goes to the midpipe?
#67
both solenoid wires are used... the yellow is connected to the 12v power and the blue/green is the RPM switch activated ground.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=391394 post #3, not sure about the RPM differences though
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=391394 post #3, not sure about the RPM differences though
#70
Ok. The nipple on the solenoid can be left open or connected to your intake, it doesn't matter unless you are expecting a lot of dirt to get in there in which case connect it so it's only seeing filtered air. All the nipple does is allow air at atmospheric pressure to go through the solenoid to the power valve actuator (not into the engine itself). When the solenoid receives a ground, it cuts off the air passage and allows vacuum from the internal tank to go through to the actuator, thus rotating the power valve.
Now, as for the wiring. You need a positive side and a negative (grounded) side running to the solenoid. Are you using a Harlan? I'm not familiar with the color codes as I have the Summit but basically the switch will have a lead that supplies ground upon reaching the set rpm... connect this to the ground side of the solenoid. The other side of the solenoid should be wired into a positive 12v source (from the battery) but put it on a switched line like after your ignition switch so it won't constantly be draining.
So what was your problem that caused the car to keep dying then? Sounds like you found it if it's staying on now...
Now, as for the wiring. You need a positive side and a negative (grounded) side running to the solenoid. Are you using a Harlan? I'm not familiar with the color codes as I have the Summit but basically the switch will have a lead that supplies ground upon reaching the set rpm... connect this to the ground side of the solenoid. The other side of the solenoid should be wired into a positive 12v source (from the battery) but put it on a switched line like after your ignition switch so it won't constantly be draining.
So what was your problem that caused the car to keep dying then? Sounds like you found it if it's staying on now...
#71
red to cig. lighter positive
black to cig. lighter negative
white to white/green tach wire
gray to yellow on the connector to the VI
when yellow from the Summit was connected to the VI the green light was always on. Are we supposed to be using the black wire from the summit switch to the connector on the VI?
black to cig. lighter negative
white to white/green tach wire
gray to yellow on the connector to the VI
when yellow from the Summit was connected to the VI the green light was always on. Are we supposed to be using the black wire from the summit switch to the connector on the VI?
#74
we fed the rat to a cat in the alley behind Daves house. but anyways, why wouldn't you guys answer your phones! and is the black wire from the rpm switch supposed to be ran to the VI connector? I was told only one wire was necessary to run from the rpm switch by none other than...NISMO3112
#80
Originally Posted by eckohb
we fed the rat to a cat in the alley behind Daves house. but anyways, why wouldn't you guys answer your phones! and is the black wire from the rpm switch supposed to be ran to the VI connector? I was told only one wire was necessary to run from the rpm switch by none other than...NISMO3112
Here's how I did the Summit wiring as follows:
Black - connect to engine or chassis ground
Red - connect to switched +12v source (such as ignition switch)
White - connect to tach
Yellow - connect to negative (ground) side of VIAS solenoid
Grey - not used
Using this setup do not hookup a vacuum line to the VIAS nipple. You still need to run a positive line to the solenoid to complete the circuit.