I thought so too but I rechecked them from the stock ones and they run to the same places or as close as possible with the different fitting locations. I personally think that it's cause we didn't use new gaskets and there is a massive air leak somewhere.

Only rewiring we did was of the two ground connections and we ran them to the timing cover.

 

Unless the old gaskets are really in bad shape they're probably fine. I re-used my IACV and TB gaskets with no problems.

 

00vi has rubber gaskets that are supposed to be re-used, the lower IM gaskets should be changed, I dout not changing the gaskets can cause that big of a leak.

 

Those were the codes I got when I had my vacuum lines routed wrong on the map/baro solenoid. Everything checks out against the FSM vacuum line diagrams?

 

I agree. Having a leaky gasket would be the same as unplugging a vac line. It won't shut the car off... your idle just goes up a bit, you get a hissing noise etc.

I'm inclined to think there's something of a larger magnitude incorrect with your setup.

And you already checked that your TPS is adjusted correctly, right?

 

Some is not plugged in IMO...

 

I know you say you've done it but double, triple, heck - quadruple check all those vacuum and air routings... it's easy to miss something even when you think you've gotten it all right...

 

Right now. The tps is at 507 at closed and 3720 a WOT. We have no open fittings and I guess we'll have to take everything off and try again.

 

Does it stay running under throttle?

 

not at all.

 

Out of curiosity...is the brake booster hose connected? When Nismo and I did my install, we forgot to connect it and the following happened: the car turned over, stayed running for about three seconds and during those three seconds, the idle was all over the place as the car struggled to operate...then it died.

 

It's connected to the nipple all the way on the passanger side of the manifold.

 

This is probably a stupid question... what size hose did you run from the back of the IACV adapter plate to the manifold?

 

Is IACV plugged in correctly? Mine was not and it ran bad and turned off

 

I think we have 5/8 going from the TB plates to the IACV adapter, and then from the stock IACV fitting to the resonator is the same size, it's snug.

 

Now that I look at my friend's TB, the vac hose on the bottom of the TB goes to something else... This is where the vac source connects to:


Also to get a better understanding, can you list off where these lines are going to?

 

I had the 1302 map/baro code throw up on me after I did the swap and it made it hard for me to start the car. Sometimes I was start it and it would die right out. Found out that I had some of my vacuum hoses mixed up and after I fixed it there were no more problems.

 

Car runs, there is a faint whisling sound but I don't see/feel any leaks except the EGR tube which isn't blocked off. Now, besides the green LED, how do I know the butterflies are opening? I don't hear a change is sound or anything. We have the white wire, normally open, running to the actuator. We tried both the wires coming from the connector and still can't tell a difference.

 

pop the hood and watch the VI solenoid open when you hit the RPM setting

 

We have no hood on yet. I figured that the metal piece at the bottom would move to open it, the one you can move manually to open them, but it's not moving at all.

 

What is the vacuum source you have for it? Try hooking up direct vacuum and see if it opens up and stays open, it should stay open just to make sure its functional.

 

We have no vacuum for it. The brass nipple is left open and the black, plastic one is capped. That's what we were told to do.

 

It is supposed to be connected to the midpipe.

 

Yes, it wont open without it..

 

are both wires on the connector to the VI supposed to be used? one to the rpm switch for sure, and is the other one supposed to be grounded?

 

which one is supposed to be connected to the mid pipe? we have one that was capped, and the other small nipple that isnt supposed to be used. the one that was capped im assuming somehow goes to the midpipe?

 

both solenoid wires are used... the yellow is connected to the 12v power and the blue/green is the RPM switch activated ground.

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=391394 post #3, not sure about the RPM differences though

 

The inner most one is suppose to be connected to the midpipe.

As for the wireing, many ways to do it. Test and find out which one opens it.

 

Do not cap it off, or else it will have a hard time opening, also I did not have anything connected to the solenoid nipple.

 

Ok. The nipple on the solenoid can be left open or connected to your intake, it doesn't matter unless you are expecting a lot of dirt to get in there in which case connect it so it's only seeing filtered air. All the nipple does is allow air at atmospheric pressure to go through the solenoid to the power valve actuator (not into the engine itself). When the solenoid receives a ground, it cuts off the air passage and allows vacuum from the internal tank to go through to the actuator, thus rotating the power valve.

Now, as for the wiring. You need a positive side and a negative (grounded) side running to the solenoid. Are you using a Harlan? I'm not familiar with the color codes as I have the Summit but basically the switch will have a lead that supplies ground upon reaching the set rpm... connect this to the ground side of the solenoid. The other side of the solenoid should be wired into a positive 12v source (from the battery) but put it on a switched line like after your ignition switch so it won't constantly be draining.

So what was your problem that caused the car to keep dying then? Sounds like you found it if it's staying on now...

 

red to cig. lighter positive
black to cig. lighter negative
white to white/green tach wire
gray to yellow on the connector to the VI

when yellow from the Summit was connected to the VI the green light was always on. Are we supposed to be using the black wire from the summit switch to the connector on the VI?

 

oh yeah, our problem was that we found a dead rat inside one of the cylinders


Nismo3112: ANSWER YOUR PHONE!!!

 

A dead rat? I want pics.

 

we fed the rat to a cat in the alley behind Daves house. but anyways, why wouldn't you guys answer your phones! and is the black wire from the rpm switch supposed to be ran to the VI connector? I was told only one wire was necessary to run from the rpm switch by none other than...NISMO3112

 

I was at work but saw you guys called five times lol

You'll use all the RPM switch wires except for one (the normally open wire).

 

yes, i realize that. but does it matter where the switch is grounded? we have it grounded to the cig lighter, and the VI ground is on the chassis of the car.

 

wait, so the yellow one is the one that we do not use? And we are supposed to be using the gray one?

 

Where you ground it shouldn't matter.

 

So then why is not opening? THT, you dont have a vacuum source hooked up to it do you?

 

So you won't tell us what the rat.. er problem was?

Here's how I did the Summit wiring as follows:

Black - connect to engine or chassis ground
Red - connect to switched +12v source (such as ignition switch)
White - connect to tach
Yellow - connect to negative (ground) side of VIAS solenoid
Grey - not used

Using this setup do not hookup a vacuum line to the VIAS nipple. You still need to run a positive line to the solenoid to complete the circuit.