ok, i know ive seen this before but couldnt find it, and a link in the mods faq isnt working for me, but i wanna know...how hard is it, if even possible, to get a 3.0 automatic into the 13s all motor?(while keeping it auto and 3.0, without 3.5 and tranny swap) if it is possible, what has to be done? im tempted to go fi, but the only thing better to me would be to do it all motor and then f.i. just curious guys...may actually try to do it if it sounds feasible...

 

I dont think that has ever been achieved with an automatic.

BTW: Did you go last Wed to moroso, what was your time?

 

so u dont think its possible? darn, that sucks! so i assume it is possible on a 5 speed then huh, without a 3.5 swap?
oh,i didnt go, a friend said he would go this wednesday so i opted out of last wednesday so that i had someone to go with... u should go even though ur not tuned...

 

Yeah you will need a 5spd swap to get near 13's... I hate my auto ;[

i've been dying to goto the moroso but im holding back until I get tuned and get my control arm bushings fixed for the trip over there, also im gonna put on stocks and take off the 17's, lightweight.

I wanna go to get the best possible time I can, I dont go often so I wanna make it count, plus im going to teh dyno next saturday

 

but...ive heard so much speculation that an auto is better for the track if its properly built and such...i hate my auto too but i want more umph than i can on an 5speed, u feel me? example, if i has the money i would probably go turbo before 5 speed like an idiot, but i dont know.
ive been to moroso 2 times the last 3 weeks...last week that turboed accord was there, running low 17s...he was pi$$ed...now i got someone coming with me next week to run his car...

 

lenny ? the one from starbucks? He blew his clutch I heard.. lol

 

yeh, he was running 17.8, he said once he fixes the clutch he'll run 14s. it suks to be turboed and be the slowest car at the track, but he'll get up there

 

Anything is possible with enough money,you could put a 3.0 auto in the 8s if you have a quarter million dollars to throw at it lol.

But but seriously do you really want to spend $3000 on building your auto transmission (and then still have to spend the money on the power mods) to do the same thing that a 5spd can do with just some breathing mods and good driving.

Automatic IS better for drag racing once you reach a certain power level, that power level is much higher than any NA maxima is producing however.

And no, no 3.0 has ever gotten into the 13s NA, at least not on this board.

 

exactly how much do u have to do to the transmission that will cost 3000K? certainly if it costed 3 grand i would do a swap and have cash left over...i was thinkin to do 13s on an auto it wouldnt have to be the "best", just a little "better" to survive, or would i really have to go all out on it? but...wut do i know

 

The biggest help would be a higher stall converter. 3.0s simply lack the torque to get off the line well with their low stall. That is why there is a bigger discrepancy between the performance of a 3.0 auto and a 3.0 manual than a 3.5 auto and a 3.5 manual. You need that higher stall to come off the line with more torque.

There are guys on here with built autos so they are better for answering specific questions. Aaron92se has one.

 

ok, that should be around $500 i think...not sure but roughly...i can already see that unless a tc is the only thing i need its gonna surpass the cost of a tranny swap already... i wish the stock auto could hande it

 

Fastest NA VQ30 Auto is either 14.0 or 14.1 by 96sleeper. I should hopefully beat that one day Unless the other VQ project drops in first

 

14.2 by 96sleeper, then 13.9 when he went to 5 spd. I dont know how much longer I can be an automatic. It really sucks. I was thinking about getting a higher stall, but Im thinking I should just say fock the auto, and get the 5 spd. We will see.

 

thank god my car came in 5 speed..

 

anybody know of a shop that will do the 5 spd conversion maybe even find all the pieces??

 

Maximum Tuning in NY, Tilley's shop in PA will do them.

 

thanks tht for the info, i wish there was a shop in my area (miami) hopefully there is

 

Maybe Jeff can do it up but that would be on his spare time at the shop.

 

even with say a VB mod on an auto it's still impossible to break into the 13's with an auto?

One of the members on our forums (Torontomaxima) has a 13.89 NA with a 5spd and mevi

 

its hard to say whether or not a vb mod will increase the performance of an auto transmission. some have claimed .4 in the .25 mile, while others say no gain, or slower times. Mostly due to how fast the VB causes the transmission to shift, leaving the car in a dead spot in the gear. If you have an ecu with an extended rev limiter, it could increase your .25 time, but mainly it prolongs the life of your tranny. Overall, it'd be pretty tough to hit 13s with an auto. Lots of weight reduction, and every possible bolt on would be necessary to get close.

 

Keys to 13's on 3.0 auto NA
I/E/Tuning - includes a VI
Weight reduction
Lightweight wheels/tires w/ lower geared tires.
VB Mod/DR mod
High Stall TC

 

high stall tc is more important to 1/4 mile time than the VB. getting all the power you can down to the ground off the line is important. The smaller wheels and tires are crucial too. VI is absolutely necessary. I've ran slower using the DR mod. I need an ECU with the ext. limiter because than that'd be about 1000 total rpm that im not in 3rd gear, which is the worst gearing that I've ever encountered

 

I've heard that high stall tc is only good for track if you've got the tires for them as well...if you have normal everyday tires the high stall tc isn't useful... <<== any truth to that? or is it just benefical in general to have a high stall tc?

As for VI...I myself am still debating whether or not to go VI or MEVI... I'm leaning towards the VI.. just that there's only one other guy I know of in the Toronto area that has it done.. and it does seem quite confusing. hopefully after reading up on almost every thread there is in here about the VI I'll have an idea of wtf I'm doing lol

 

Tuned for what?

 

its so hard to hook up an auto tranny b/c no matter wut u do, ur still always gonna want a manual...thats the way i feel anyways...and plus ive heard that turbo suks on an auto, so if i ever do decide to go f.l. i would have spent all the money on the darn auto...

 

my 00VI setup with the larger injectors O_O

 

why would a turbo suck on an auto that has a transmission built for that amount of power? And putting the VI on causes the car to run rich under WOT, which is why he needs the tuning. Go with the VI, it's not as complicated as it seems. The vacuum and fuel lines are the most complicated part. If you can get help from the other dude in Canada, it will be easy.

 

First off, a turbo is more beneficial on an automatic if the turbo system is designed to be on the usual gearing of an automatic. I am glad I am automatic. B/c I will be worse off if I swap to a 5spd since my goal is strictly to have the best 1/4 mile time with a turbo/n20.

Neal, I don't have a built auto tranny YET. But I do have a high stall TC and VB mod. Once I get my built tranny with alot of goodies, then 13.6-8s should be possible with the help of a proper ECU tune (ZEMulator). Hopefully, it will all come together by Jan 06.

prince, a high stall TC would be kinda useless at the drag strip if you don't have a way to lay that extra power down. With normal crappy street tires, you will have more traction problems than before and could actually get worse track times with a higher stall. But, why go to the drag strip with street tires. There is a time and place for everything and if you want the best times possible, then drag radials or slicks are a must. I say always get slicks when in doubt! With traction, you can shave 3 or 4 tenths in the 1/4 mile with a higher stall TC. 95% of that gain will come in the 60' foot alone. The rest will come with better effeciency through the drivetrain, allowing you to put more power to the ground beyond the 60'.

Kevlo911, you're right. In order to put any NA 3L auto in the 13s, you will have to have all those mods you stated plus more sometimes. For me, I've done a lot of weight reduction and that helps the most. I've pretty much done everything I can without actually building my transmission up with a better final drive or upgraded ECU. Both are hopefully coming this winter.

 

I'd love to have a higher stall. 3k-4k would be great. I wouldn't go as far as getting slicks just yet for myself, DRs would be just fine. An automatic tranny will get you more consistent times. The real big difference between the 5 spd and auto like Neal said is the fact 4th gen autos can stall up to like 2k. If I could pull a 2.08 60 ft like you Aaron, I'd be around 14.6. I can't decide if I want to save for a 5 spd, or get my stall raised with a JWT ecu. Staying auto seems easiest, but the fun of a 5 spd for races on a roll is appealing too.

 

Yeah, my car could only brake stall up to 1800 rpm max. But now, I can hold the brakes and slowly and easily push the gas all the way to the floor and it won't over power the brakes. I can get the stall to 2900 rpm. I love it. But I've had my best 60' when I launch off an idle instead of stalling it up. But I still haven't raced on full slicks like I will this winter. I was spinning the drag radials when I stalled it up.

A 3K stall would be perfect for a 3L Maxima. If you can see 2800-3200 on your tach when you launch with perfect traction (slicks is the ONLY way), then that will be perfect. The only way I would go higher than a 3500-4K stall is if you never drove your car on the street. Also, a higher stall doesn't nessecarily mean, better ETs. Yes, it will give you an awesome 60' with slicks, but you will start losing efficiency after the 60', which can greatly hinder your overall ET.

This information is not coming from me alone, but from Andre at Edge Racing Converters and also Rob at NRH said the same thing. Since I am going to bulletproof my tranny, I have been talking with Rob a little bit. He doesn't want me to raise my stall. I asked him if a 4K stall would help me and I can care less about heat during daily drivability. All I want is a sick track car. But he said if I am already getting 3K on my launch, then he wouldn't raise it anymore. It just starts getting inefficient after that. It's simply too "lose".