cheapest 00VI
Buy the upper and drill the lower A32 IM..
You're still going to have to 1) get the adapter plate sets and use 4th gen TB, you'll still need a plate for the IACV, or 2) use 5th gen TB, remove EGR, and wire up the A33 IACV...
ORRRRRRRRRRRR
3) use the 5th gen TB, keep EGR, and use a plate for teh IACV..
Theres 91823912839123821 combinations, your choice.
You're still going to have to 1) get the adapter plate sets and use 4th gen TB, you'll still need a plate for the IACV, or 2) use 5th gen TB, remove EGR, and wire up the A33 IACV...
ORRRRRRRRRRRR
3) use the 5th gen TB, keep EGR, and use a plate for teh IACV..
Theres 91823912839123821 combinations, your choice.
I can't do option 2 :'( ... I would fail emissions without an EGR over NOx. Drilling the lower seems soooo scary. I wonder if it is cheaper to use 5th gen TB over buying an adaptor plate to keep your 4th gen TB. I know 5th gen TB is slightly larger in diameter.
there is no easy way
the EASIEST its gonna get is.....
-A33 Lower/Upper
-A33 Valve Cover
-A33 Rear Coilpacks
-A33 EGR Guide Tube
-A33 Throttle Body
-A33 Fuel Rail/Injectors
-A32 Idle Air Control V
-Adapter Plate for IACV from someone here.
Using the whole shibang you wont have to grind down the coil towers, or worry about PCV placement.
the EASIEST its gonna get is.....
-A33 Lower/Upper
-A33 Valve Cover
-A33 Rear Coilpacks
-A33 EGR Guide Tube
-A33 Throttle Body
-A33 Fuel Rail/Injectors
-A32 Idle Air Control V
-Adapter Plate for IACV from someone here.
Using the whole shibang you wont have to grind down the coil towers, or worry about PCV placement.
Here's the easiest way that retains egr and pcv functionality, and allows you to keep your injectors and fuel rail:
1. 00vi
2. A33 rear valve cover and ignition coils
3. A33 egr guide tube
4. A32 IACV
5. A32 TB
6. TB adapter plate
7. predrilled A32 lower intake manifold (PM me!)
8. IACV remote mounting plate
1. 00vi
2. A33 rear valve cover and ignition coils
3. A33 egr guide tube
4. A32 IACV
5. A32 TB
6. TB adapter plate
7. predrilled A32 lower intake manifold (PM me!)
8. IACV remote mounting plate
Originally Posted by scrhale
Yes ... but everyone has to remember that when you do s0ber's "easy" way, you have to splice in the injectors into the A33 Lower.
Originally Posted by Stephen Max
Here's the easiest way that retains egr and pcv functionality, and allows you to keep your injectors and fuel rail:
1. 00vi
2. A33 rear valve cover and ignition coils
3. A33 egr guide tube
4. A32 IACV
5. A32 TB
6. TB adapter plate
7. predrilled A32 lower intake manifold (PM me!)
8. IACV remote mounting plate
1. 00vi
2. A33 rear valve cover and ignition coils
3. A33 egr guide tube
4. A32 IACV
5. A32 TB
6. TB adapter plate
7. predrilled A32 lower intake manifold (PM me!)
8. IACV remote mounting plate
How expensive is the rear valve cover and ignition coils?
Originally Posted by Nismo3112
Buy everything you need including the VI off of me for $80..
Wait... I already sold it to THT
Wait... I already sold it to THT

My state only scans for codes for the emissions testing. Would removing the EGR valve with this swap throw a code? If you remove the EGR, doesn't that give a little more power and gas mileage?
Originally Posted by PTownMax
anyone know an answer to post #15?
I would prolly do a search on valve covers, if that doesn't bear fruit, do a search for an engine, scroll through the list and find some that are blown and call them.
For the coils, I would order 3 new ones.
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
You'd pay like $180 for coils you can get for like $30 car-part.com? Must be nice to be rich!
Paying $60 more now for the new coils will be cheaper in the long run if you receive defective or dying coils from a junkyard.
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