this guy seems to be doing a lot with the innovate stuff

 

Have you checked out AutoEngenuity? It's the only other one that I've seen that comes close to the Auterra.

At least you're blessed with a newer ECU that's not a dog like the 4th gen. For my datalogging on both my 98 and 96 ECU's I never use OBDII, I use the Consult port. Waayyy faster and much more bandwidth. Not to mention the ability to do active tests and download the ECU roms.

 

True. And the VQ35 is already supported. Check my main EU thread for info on the VQ30 update though, it's getting closer. I can feel it coming in my bones.. lol.

 

Our OBD-II port is also slow.

 

That is strange because the OBD-II and Consult-II share the same connector and data line on the 02/03. Perhaps the OBD-II scanner being used was "slow".
I know I can enable fast data sampling on my Auterra with an 02/03 ecu but not with the 4th gen.

 

+1. I thought with the fast-sampling they were a heck of a lot faster than the 4th gen. ??

 

I am surprised you got that much advance with those SAFC corrections Matt. I did not think it would be that much. Makes me more hesitant to keep running the stock timimg and pulling fuel via my SAFC. If I decide to stick with the stock ECU I may try smaller injectors and adding fuel.

 

That's one of the diasadvantages to tuning fuel via MAF conditioning (producing unwanted timing changes)...

 

I wish I actually understood some of this. Can someone point me in the direction of understanding short term and long term fuel trims and what exactly a fule trim is. To me it still makes no sense as to why increased fuel pressure will increase timing. The only thing I can take from this is that it seems increasing fuel pressure is not a accurate way of advancing timing.

 

I'm feeling nice today so i won't be too harsh. I thought my explanation earlier in this thread was sufficient. In case you missed it on the first page, i'll repost it.

And as for fuel trims, it's really quite simple. If you understand how o2 sensor feedback control works, you know that the ECU tries to maintain an a/f ratio of 14.7:1. It's constantly comparing the theoretical values with the actual values and making changes to compensate. That is essentially what short-term fuel trim is. Long-term fuel trim is adjustments that are made to compensate for long-term fuel system degradation, such as the fuel pump and injectors. As the fuel system becomes less and less efficient over time, the ECU makes even greater changes to get the a/f ratio as close to the theoretical values as possible.

 

I believe that under closed loop, the ECU doesn't try to maintain a 14.7:1 ratio, but more like 13.5 (lambda 0.9) for safety reasons.

 

I'm going by what the FSM says. Guess it's lying. Anyway, got proof of this 13.5 during closed loop? And even if it is 13.5, wtf does it have to do with safety?

There are MANY maximas running 13.0:1 a/f ratio or leaner at WOT consistently with no adverse effects. So you're telling me that in a low-load, low RPM situation the motor needs to run at 13.5:1 for safety??

 

You mean in open loop, right?

My wideband oscillates between 14.5 and 14.9 in closed loop.

 

So does mine.

And I am one of the few crazy enough to run 13.8-14.2 @ WOT.

 

Yeah, if I had FI on the stock timing map I would setup the fuel system so I could add as much as possible. Turn down the fuel pressure and turn up the MAF voltage, however that is probably already maxed out.

 

Yeah, I was thinking of open loop. How come the A/F ratio drops like a rock after 3000rpm in open loop (WOT), like you see in the dyno sheets?

 

I guess you didn't read my post completely. I clearly said that the ECU tries to maintain stoich when it's using o2 sensor feedback. The ECU doesn't use feedback during open loop so i'm as to how you came to that conclusion.

Anyhow, as for the a/f ratio dropping like a rock. The open-loop fuel/timing map requires two conditions to come into effect, 40% throttle and 3000 RPM. If both of these conditions aren't met, the ECU remains in closed-loop.

 

Once I replaced my KS and fabbed up a custom harness my stocker would hit 24-26 degrees at the high RPM

 

I don't know how your car/engine responds specifically but when I was tuning a week and a half ago on the dyno I noticed that for me the range between RBT and LBT was fairly wide.. ie.. between 13.0 to 14.0 I really didn't seem to lose or gain anything. So I just set mine to an average of 13.0 to 13.2 as I figured I'd rather be a wee bit rich for those hotter days mid summer.

What kind of range do you have with your setup on the VQ35.. have you found it to be more sensitive/responsive than the VQ30?

 

That is what I used to run when I would tune on a Dynojet. But for some reason it made a difference on the Mustang dyno between 13-14.

I think it also helps if you use some more potent gasoline when tuning it that thin, which I did.




And for me next trick, I show you ***** how to install a Tilton 350Z clutch/flywheel on a Maxima. If the deal goes through.

 

Do you think it made a difference because the Mustang dyno has more realistic load characteristics?




What would the advantage be over other aftermarket maxima clutches?

 

That is my guess. The Mustang increases the load as the speeds get higher based on aerodynamic settings. It's calibrated by HP@50mph. However we don't have the perfect numbers for the A33 body.




Research the Tilton. Eight pound flywheel and 8 pound 7" clutch pack which is a 30+ pound reduction and the mass is more centered.

 

Hmm.. I don't think I have a Mustang dyno near me... I'll have to check into it. The fuel may have something to do with it too. I was only using 91 octane (for now... waiting for Greddy to give me timing control and didn't want to bother mixing my own higher octane gas)

Did you notice a difference between gears? What gear(s) were you tuning in on the Mustang?

 

This thread has conviced me that I need a SAFC. What's the difference between the SAFC I and SAFC II? I'd love to have the E-U, but I don't want to spend the $500 for it.

 

SR-71, do you have an aftermarket ECU (that advances timing, so the L-spec wouldn't apply to why i'm asking)? i've been searching and i think i only found one person using an AFC with an aftermarket ECU that's NA and he had problems tuning it.

 

From what i've read, you can use the S-AFC with an aftermarket ECU that has static maps during open loop. The JWT doesn't but the TS does.

 

The S-AFC II is simply superior. More correction points and smaller increments (higher resolution basically), dual map feature, password protection, knock sensor feature etc. You can find more details here:

http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_ele...=202&pageNum=1

 

The VAFC-I has 16 correction points (8 lo, 8 hi) and can usually be found cheaper than the SAFC-II.
Need to save up for a datalogger to see how it's affected my timing, had to lean it way out w/ the 290cc injectors.

 

That 16 correction points thing is somewhat misleading. There's no point to tuning the a/f ratio at low throttle settings since the ECU will just try to return it to stoich anyway. I would like to get my hands on the V-AFC II though.

 

I have a stock 97 ECU that I'm going to use with the 3.5. Dual maps would be nice as I could lean it out a little bit (14.0-14.5) for crusing speeds on the freeway while in open loop (3000rpm-3500rpm) and another map (13.5) for WOT.

 

That's low cam, hi cam, makes no difference to throttle? Am I off base here?
I have the "vtec" engagement point at 4500RPM then set 8 fuel corrections below & above that point. As long as I'm above 40% throttle at any set RPM point it should work. Seems to be anyway... it sure affected my AFR at each point.

 

Ah ok. When you said hi/lo i thought you were referring to hi throttle/low throttle. My bad...

 

Closed-loop: When the ECU uses o2 sensor feedback to maintain 14.7:1 a/f ratio. These conditions are used when cruising, and during light acceleration.

Open-loop: When the ECU ignores o2 sensor signals and reverts to a stored a/f map based primarily on MAF voltage and engine speed. Conditions for this are two-fold...40% throttle and 3000 RPM.



When you're cruising on the expressway the ECU is already in closed-loop so you don't have to tune for that. The short-term fuel trim should compensate for the larger 3.5 injectors. In case it doesn't (which i highly doubt), you'll get codes 0114 and 0209. But nobody with a 3.5 swap has gotten that code so i doubt that's an issue. Set your high throttle percentage on the S-AFC for 40% since that's when the open-loop maps take effect.

 

I didn't realize open loop was >=3000rpm AND 40% throttle. I thought it was 3000rpm OR 40% throttle.

 

I was about to side otherwise but before I do I need to take another look at the VAFC2. I am now thinking that you might be right and we can use 20-24 points on the VAFC-2. Either way
, I have been telling everyone lately to skip the SAFC2 in favor of the VAFC2.

 

Are you guys going through all this just to get some timing adjustment? Or, do you need the adjustment to fuel also?

If all you really need is to control your timing (advance or retard) there is another affordable way.

allen

 

And what would that be? A JWT/TS ECU or a E-U? Those are more expensive than a VAFC.

We want both A/F and timing. Using bigger injectors and then adjusting the fuel adjusts the timing and the A/F mix. Even using stock injectors, adjusting the A/F mix gives benefits.

 

Megasquirt is the best solution that I've come across yet. It's a little involved at first but once you've read some of the information it all starts to come together.

It can control either just your fuel (leaving your stock ECU to control the ignition) or just the ignition (leaving your stock ECU to control the injectors).
Or, you can use it to control both and get rid of your ECU all together.

If you want it to control your ignition you have to switch to a Ford coil pack setup. You also have to mount a Ford trigger wheel to the front crank pulley and mount the new crank sensor to the front of your engine to read off of the new wheel.

It sounds like a lot of hassle but if you want total control of your spark and/or fuel this is the best way.

I think unassembled kits run about 135$
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MegaS...QQcmdZViewItem

Assembled kits are available for more money, but are still very reasonable.

The Ford coil pack and wheel kits can be had for less than 100$

I'm strongly considering using this on my VQ.

allen

 

Hmm, I wonder if you could use the 6spd and have the CPS read the flywheel with megasquirt as well

 

what are static maps? but the TS ecu's don't have an increased rev limiter on 5spd ecu's for us, or do they?