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Old Mar 24, 2006 | 08:13 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by SR-71 Blackbird
It's kinda hard to describe. It doesn't rev freely at all. It sputters really bad and seems to be misfiring. All cylinders are getting gas. The fuel pressure is set at 40psi.

I would think that if the cam timing was off, that the compression would be much lower or none at all. The engine has 800 miles on it. One thing that was interesting is that all the spark plugs in the front bank were pitch black, not sooty or oily though. The spark plugs in the rear looked nearly brand new and weren't black at all.
Hmm... I can't think of anything that would do that to just one bank of plugs... What condition are your coils in? CEL?
Old Mar 24, 2006 | 08:19 PM
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The engine and coils only have 800 miles on them. The only CELs that it is throwing are related to EVAP and the IACV.
Old Mar 24, 2006 | 08:33 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by SR-71 Blackbird
I did a compression test and found that the rear bank's cylinders were all at 190psi and the front bank were all at 150. Is there any good explaination for that?
Are you positive that the two rear bank cams are properly synchronized relative to each other? Sounds like excessive overlap to me...
Old Mar 24, 2006 | 08:52 PM
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Don't you mean the front bank? The front bank had 150psi and the rear had 190psi. Wouldn't 190psi right about where it should be, whereas 150psi is a little low, but still within spec.
Old Mar 24, 2006 | 10:34 PM
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IT seems like it would run pretty awkward if the two halves of the engine had different compression results... Something's not right:\
Old Mar 25, 2006 | 09:54 AM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by SR-71 Blackbird
Don't you mean the front bank? The front bank had 150psi and the rear had 190psi. Wouldn't 190psi right about where it should be, whereas 150psi is a little low, but still within spec.
Oops. Thought you said the rear bank had low compression. Well yea, the fronts then. If the the cams are off by even 1 tooth relative to each other the compression reading will be affected.
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 08:45 AM
  #47  
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This is from pg. EM-30 of the 97 Maxima FSM



I'm not quite understanding this. How do you install the pulley and then turn it 60deg independent of the crank? Or is it saying that you should turn the crank 60deg??? Could someone explain???
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 09:00 AM
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i think it's saying turn that bolt 60 degress front that position on the pulley
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 09:06 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Biggs_02
i think it's saying turn that bolt 60 degress front that position on the pulley
How do you turn the bolt 60deg after you torque it down? Why would it not just give a torque # instead of just saying torque it down 30ftlb then torque it down more by turning the bolt 60deg?
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 09:15 AM
  #50  
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torque + angle is very common for critical torques in the automotive and construction industry. It is alot more accurate than a torque value alone since lubricants and other things can come into play.
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 10:22 AM
  #51  
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i suggest that you get someone to help you if you are doing this alone. The reason being, is because now you are fluttering your mind with endless possibilities to cause this problem. Maybe to correct everything is just a small ajustment or maybe a big repair...they say 2 heads are better then one right...don't worry, it'll work, especially if the motor has only 800 miles on it. Also don't take advise too seriously on forums. Narrow down where the problem may start from and move forward. Sometimes that might mean starting over aswell. Keep all options open, hope for the worst espect the best. Think about the day it'll work fine and you will be done with it. You never know, it could be really soon. Enjoy it
Ed
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 10:54 AM
  #52  
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I think I know what the problem was. I just scanned the codes using a obd-ii scanner and there was a maf code. I just started up my other maxima with the MAF unpluuged and it ran in the same way that this 3.5 was running.

The problem now is that it doesn't seem to be seeing the crank sensor (REF) and oil pressure sender. Everything's plugged in, but it isn't turning on the fuel pump because it doesn't see the crank sensor. The oil light used to turn off when cranking. I'll have to do some pin testing to see if there's a problem with the harness.
Old Mar 28, 2006 | 04:21 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by SR-71 Blackbird
How do you turn the bolt 60deg after you torque it down? Why would it not just give a torque # instead of just saying torque it down 30ftlb then torque it down more by turning the bolt 60deg?
i think that's wat it means....i pretty sure, because before that instruction it said to tighten to 29-36ft-lbs. Then it said to "again tighten by turning" 60 to 60 degrees.
Old Apr 17, 2006 | 03:09 PM
  #54  
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any update?also would a dirty maf caus this?
Old Apr 17, 2006 | 03:18 PM
  #55  
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a dirty maf can cause issues, but it doesn't seem that the maf is the issue. It's been raining or snowing on my days off lately, so I haven't been able to work on it much.
Old Apr 17, 2006 | 04:00 PM
  #56  
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i really hate to bother you but i need to no this stuff and nobody seems to lend a hand.is it normal for when im cranking the car should the rpms beat @ ~1000rpms(fluttering).also when crankin my car backfires sometimes.also when turn the crank by hand i can hear the injector clicking so this means im gettin fuel.right?oh yeah this is a vq35 4th gen.
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