5 speed auto for 98 maxima?!?!
#3
Originally Posted by SPiG
no
auto swap = not worth it
MT > AT
/end thread
auto swap = not worth it
MT > AT
/end thread
#4
With the amount of work that would take I *think* you'd end up wishing to God you had done a manual swap. Please, by all means prove us all wrong though. I'm not being sarcastic.
#6
5AT = same 1-3 (1/4 mile) gearing (2-3% diff) as 5MT.
MPH @ at 6500 redline
-------5A---5M
1st ----44---40
2nd ----67---70
3rd ----103--102
4th----152---137
5th ---201---164
RPM @ 75 mph cruising
5A--------2420
5M--------2961
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=231171
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=192726
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=402818
#8
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
I fail to see why all of you are downplaying that 5 speed auto.
#9
Originally Posted by nismology
I was thinking the same thing. It wouldn't be much slower in the 1/4 mile mod for mod, if it was any slower at all IMO. Comparable gear ratios + quicker shifts might give a 5-speed MT a run for it's money.
It will give the 6spd manual a run for it's money.
If I ever get the chance to do a VQ35 swap in a B13 or NX2000 I will most likely use that 5spd auto.
#10
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
5AT = same 1-3 (1/4 mile) gearing (2-3% diff) as 5MT.
MPH @ at 6500 redline
-------5A---5M
1st ----44---40
2nd ----67---70
3rd ----103--102
4th----152---137
5th ---201---164
RPM @ 75 mph cruising
5A--------2420
5M--------2961
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=231171
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?threadid=192726
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=402818
#12
Originally Posted by SR20DEN
It will give the 6spd manual a run for it's money.
If I ever get the chance to do a VQ35 swap in a B13 or NX2000 I will most likely use that 5spd auto.
If I ever get the chance to do a VQ35 swap in a B13 or NX2000 I will most likely use that 5spd auto.
#13
But most people aren't going to go to the extent you are Jim with their daily driver/street cars (you know what I'm talking about).
I don't disagree that the 5AT may pose a good threat to a MT car at the dragstrip however for a daily driver/street-driven car I don't think I'd ever go auto. I just like driving a manual a whole lot better. But that's just me of course.
I don't disagree that the 5AT may pose a good threat to a MT car at the dragstrip however for a daily driver/street-driven car I don't think I'd ever go auto. I just like driving a manual a whole lot better. But that's just me of course.
#15
There are a few guys on here that are already lighter than mine is going to be and remember I have that heavy ol auto to deal with.
Funny how diehard we get on trannies. My first new car was a 1970 Challenger with a 340 that I ordered from the factory, guess what it was an auto and I fried a lot of 4 speeds with it too. Besides I like being the underdog especially at the import races but also fun going up against the new mustangs and cameros as well, the look on their faces is priceless.
Funny how diehard we get on trannies. My first new car was a 1970 Challenger with a 340 that I ordered from the factory, guess what it was an auto and I fried a lot of 4 speeds with it too. Besides I like being the underdog especially at the import races but also fun going up against the new mustangs and cameros as well, the look on their faces is priceless.
#16
Originally Posted by Jime
There are a few guys on here that are already lighter than mine is going to be and remember I have that heavy ol auto to deal with..
Originally Posted by Jime
Funny how diehard we get on trannies. My first new car was a 1970 Challenger with a 340 that I ordered from the factory, guess what it was an auto and I fried a lot of 4 speeds with it too. Besides I like being the underdog especially at the import races but also fun going up against the new mustangs and cameros as well, the look on their faces is priceless.
However, I would agree that for drag racing, a manual is not necessarily better if the auto is geared properly... look at a lot of the high power muscle cars for instance (but I know you're well aware of this).
#17
Originally Posted by DandyMax
I'm not aware of anyone who's lighter than 2500 unless you're talking about guys who stripped a spare Max just for track use. (My point was about the majority of daily drivers with autos not going that far). But I'd love to know who you're thinking of...
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ight+reduction
Fanaticrockford is at 2450 and still has a list as long as my arm to do. Guess I need some lessons. Maybe he has a magic scale.
What I am really trying to do it hit 11 sec's N/A and then I'm gonna spray it.
#18
Originally Posted by Jime
The majority of daily drivers with auto's don't reduce weight at all. I haven't hit 2500 yet, thats my goal but not sure I can do it and still have full interior which is what I'm trying to do. Its funny how people react when they see even the rear seat removed (its gutted) so I want to at least have the appearance of a full interior.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ight+reduction
Fanaticrockford is at 2450 and still has a list as long as my arm to do. Guess I need some lessons. Maybe he has a magic scale.
What I am really trying to do it hit 11 sec's N/A and then I'm gonna spray it.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....ight+reduction
Fanaticrockford is at 2450 and still has a list as long as my arm to do. Guess I need some lessons. Maybe he has a magic scale.
What I am really trying to do it hit 11 sec's N/A and then I'm gonna spray it.
But the reason I didn't think of Fanatic as a typical daily driver is b/c he's removed the following items:
-all emissions
-all heating and a/c
-ebrake
-rear bumper support
Once you do those things (and leave them removed always) to me it's not really much of a street car anymore. In many areas for example 3 of those 4 things are illegal and will not pass a safety or emissions test not to mention if you get pulled over without an e-brake the car could potentially get impounded on the spot. (Don't get pulled over with your Lexan either BTW.. lol) And if someone plans on driving in the cold months without heat (albeit he may not be doing that, who knows)... well I personally wouldn't go that far with a daily driver. Plus from what he himself said it doesn't sound like a real daily driver, just a spare car to play around with...
Originally Posted by fanaticrockford
I have maybe driven it 4 times in the last 2 months.I do have another max and have been offered $1500 for the one i am stripping.
Anyways, I don't mean to split hairs Jim. If you get to 2500 that will be awesome but looking at his list and knowing some of the things you've mentioned I suspect you might just get a little bit further (unless they actually were magic scales.. lol). Running 11's N/A would be awesome; hopefully I'm there to see it! That will be my goal also once I have a VQ35. But for now (this coming season) I'm after some VQ30 benchmarks as you know. hehe.
#19
I think I can get to around 2600 lbs while being a full daily driver (radio, heater, sunroof, ABS). I've got a manual but the power sunroof and ABS makes up for the weight difference.
It's actually really easy to get the car to 2700 IMO. It was 2850 this year but it goes down another 150 for 2006. Example (my car):
Stock = 3000 lbs flat
VQ35= -35 lbs
All A/C components = -35 lbs
Headers/Cat/Catback (all aftermarket) = -35 lbs
Emptied bumper/fog lights/power steering/miscelanenous engine bay crap = 20 lbs
Floor mats = -10 lbs
Spare/Jack/Trunk = - 40 lbs
Two front racing seats = - 65 lbs
Lightweight battery = -30 lbs
Two lightweight wheels for the slicks = -20 lbs
Coilovers = -40 lbs (mainly for handling and traction but the weight reduction is a nice side effect)
See? Goes down from 3000 to 2670 or so and you've got a car that is 100% a daily driver, gets great gas mileage, has full interior, looks stock, handles much better and the stock brakes do their jobs that much better.
Even there I haven't even gotten into gutting rear doors and putting the door panels back on (nobody ever uses them anyway), CF hood/trunk, lighter rear wheels. And even then we're talking about a car that still has full electric sunroof and ABS.
Dropping 330 lbs from my car is theorically making it roughly .45 seconds faster. That is almost a full HALF-SECOND entirely from weight reduction that is barely noticeable to the eye. The 100 lbs = .1 rule is much too conservative. For sub 3000 lbs cars, it takes more like only 75 lbs to shave a tenth.
When I was at Sanair last summer I realized that Jime's auto 5.5 gen weighted the same as my manual 95. And it looked stock. So, if someone can get a max to 2500 and still look stock, it's Jime.
It's actually really easy to get the car to 2700 IMO. It was 2850 this year but it goes down another 150 for 2006. Example (my car):
Stock = 3000 lbs flat
VQ35= -35 lbs
All A/C components = -35 lbs
Headers/Cat/Catback (all aftermarket) = -35 lbs
Emptied bumper/fog lights/power steering/miscelanenous engine bay crap = 20 lbs
Floor mats = -10 lbs
Spare/Jack/Trunk = - 40 lbs
Two front racing seats = - 65 lbs
Lightweight battery = -30 lbs
Two lightweight wheels for the slicks = -20 lbs
Coilovers = -40 lbs (mainly for handling and traction but the weight reduction is a nice side effect)
See? Goes down from 3000 to 2670 or so and you've got a car that is 100% a daily driver, gets great gas mileage, has full interior, looks stock, handles much better and the stock brakes do their jobs that much better.
Even there I haven't even gotten into gutting rear doors and putting the door panels back on (nobody ever uses them anyway), CF hood/trunk, lighter rear wheels. And even then we're talking about a car that still has full electric sunroof and ABS.
Dropping 330 lbs from my car is theorically making it roughly .45 seconds faster. That is almost a full HALF-SECOND entirely from weight reduction that is barely noticeable to the eye. The 100 lbs = .1 rule is much too conservative. For sub 3000 lbs cars, it takes more like only 75 lbs to shave a tenth.
When I was at Sanair last summer I realized that Jime's auto 5.5 gen weighted the same as my manual 95. And it looked stock. So, if someone can get a max to 2500 and still look stock, it's Jime.
#21
Originally Posted by wadecarlson
is the change to 5sp manual a hard thing to do? or can i just get one at local junk yard and it matches perfect?
#24
Well I've never driven a manual car in my life and this 5AT sounds pretty promising. Now if I were to swap 4AT with a 5AT and did the DR mod would it make much of a difference. Also I'm pretty sure doing a VB mod on the 5AT would make it almost as good if not better than a 5MT correct?
#26
Unless you are putting down some serious power, ie 3.5 swap, headers etc etc or some form of boost it isn't going to help at all.
Even then the difference between the 4AT and 5AT will be minimal. This is not something you would do to gain some serious changes in et it would be something you would do after you have exhausted most of the other avenues of going quicker.
Even then the difference between the 4AT and 5AT will be minimal. This is not something you would do to gain some serious changes in et it would be something you would do after you have exhausted most of the other avenues of going quicker.
#27
Originally Posted by Jime
Unless you are putting down some serious power, ie 3.5 swap, headers etc etc or some form of boost it isn't going to help at all.
Even then the difference between the 4AT and 5AT will be minimal. This is not something you would do to gain some serious changes in et it would be something you would do after you have exhausted most of the other avenues of going quicker.
Even then the difference between the 4AT and 5AT will be minimal. This is not something you would do to gain some serious changes in et it would be something you would do after you have exhausted most of the other avenues of going quicker.
#28
Originally Posted by ajcool2
I am one of the few auto supporters.
Originally Posted by ajcool2
Well I've never driven a manual car in my life
#29
Originally Posted by ajcool2
I am one of the few auto supporters.
We are "the few, the proud, the automatic" , or "we win automatically"....
Plus now an automatic gives us the "Edge" - torque converter, that is...
13.61 ET 101.9 MPH
#33
Originally Posted by wadecarlson
so ive heard u need a trans cooler if u plan on using the valve body mod
But if you want cheap insurance, try Hayden, B&M among other brands.
#36
[QUOTE=wadecarlson]
yea its built into the radiator...i put a trans cooler on my auto when i had it....just for auto-x purposes
Originally Posted by NmexMAX
I don't have one. You don't need one.
QUOTE]
im pretty sure the maximas come standard with a trans cooler.
QUOTE]
im pretty sure the maximas come standard with a trans cooler.
yea its built into the radiator...i put a trans cooler on my auto when i had it....just for auto-x purposes
#37
i think an external auto tranny cooler is very cheap insurance (kinda like an in-case-ish-gets-too-hot)
but the biggest issues i see (That Nobody Has Pointed Out Yet) with putting in the 5AT is:
1. TCM (transmission control module--the auto computer)... are you going to use stock 98 ecu? which TCM will you be using 98? 2002? does it have output for 5 gear signals or for only 4??
2. tranny mount.. will the 4AT mount fit and support the 5AT? and similarly will the 5AT mount fit in 4th gen mount location?
3. bolt pattern... how are the 4at and 5at bolt patterns different?
4. flywheel and torque converter.. i think this might be the biggest issue, the differences between the 3.5L 5AT flywheel and the 3.0L 4AT flywheel. the torque converter will have to go with whichever flywheel is used. As somebody mentioned before EDGE makes them
i think the easiest way to put a 5AT into a 4th gen will be to use a 3.5L engine and the 5AT tranny controlled by the 3.5L ECU (also the wiring harness plus sensors, NVIS, 2002-3 ingnition key etc.)
essentially just drop in the whole package and be able to use the VTC via 2002-3 ECU as a bonus.
but the biggest issues i see (That Nobody Has Pointed Out Yet) with putting in the 5AT is:
1. TCM (transmission control module--the auto computer)... are you going to use stock 98 ecu? which TCM will you be using 98? 2002? does it have output for 5 gear signals or for only 4??
2. tranny mount.. will the 4AT mount fit and support the 5AT? and similarly will the 5AT mount fit in 4th gen mount location?
3. bolt pattern... how are the 4at and 5at bolt patterns different?
4. flywheel and torque converter.. i think this might be the biggest issue, the differences between the 3.5L 5AT flywheel and the 3.0L 4AT flywheel. the torque converter will have to go with whichever flywheel is used. As somebody mentioned before EDGE makes them
i think the easiest way to put a 5AT into a 4th gen will be to use a 3.5L engine and the 5AT tranny controlled by the 3.5L ECU (also the wiring harness plus sensors, NVIS, 2002-3 ingnition key etc.)
essentially just drop in the whole package and be able to use the VTC via 2002-3 ECU as a bonus.
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