Put this in the 4th gen, didn't get any good replys

So i got my injector clips for a 2001 engine(35k) in a 97 max today. I don't have the egr, evap, or any of the 3 vuccum sensors hooked up but everything else is set up. The only thing is she won't stay running, I get it started but then rpms will shudder and it will die. I give it gas and it will rev up on start then just drop or bounce a little and die. It seems to try and stay alive a longer time the more i start it.. Ive heard fuel injectors can go bad if the motor has sat awhile, tomorrow im gonna try taking out injectors and trying a throttle body cleaner on them. im gonna check the coils and spark plugs too. Never did a compression test but the junk yard i got it from said they did. I get codes for transmission 12/3, 12/4, 12/5. Seems to be all valve body codes I have no idea why, the transmission is a used transmission(50k) just put in as well. had this same problem before the transmission swap, maybe i gotta reset the tranny codes?...

I had a mechanic do all the labor he could, as in putting in the 2001 motor and 98 transmission. He also hooked up what sensors he could. He got it to turn over but never start. Only problem im mad at him for is that he left the A33 rear exhaust header, so i gotta swap in the A32 header for the egr.

Any ground wires that maybe he missed? Any sensors i should double check? does this injector being bad seem to be a good shot at the problem?? Any shout outs at problems, ive been searching for all i can just wanted to post. flame away I bet no one is going to have any answers, time to hit the Old thompson this is a never ending project.

 

It could be bad grounding, that was the problem I had when I did my DE-K swap. I suggest checking them all yourself. The one that gave me trouble was the stock ground which was on the intake manifold. The grounds are for various sensors (cam, crank, etc.). I put it on the valve cover at first which was a bad ground, then I moved it to the timing chain cover and it fixed my problem.

Im assuming you do not have an IACV also, so maybe if you just adjust the throttle to be open some more it will stay on.

 

connect everything back and your problem is fixed. what im do you have? is your iacv hooked up? injectors dont go bad from sitting too long either.

 

i got the 4th gen IACV plates and blocked off the 5th gen. Now i got the 4th gen IACV, the round plate and then the back plate with a hole in that order. Am i doing that right for the IACV? Got the coolant lines blocked. Hmm grounds now ill have to find them, the only grounds i see are two on the front valve cover.

Will the car run without the 3 vuccum line sensors, there green,black and brown. i dont have the evap hook up yet, same with egr. I want to get the car running first i dont see why they would kill the motor id understand a crappy idle.
Ill take a look at that stuff soon....
Quote:what im do you have? IM as in intake manifold? it is a 2001 VI, whole 2001 engine....

 

The car should run fine without those vac line sensors, they are just solenoids. Run a wire from the ground on that valve cover straight to the battery to see if it fixes the problem... that will be a quick way to test it out. On my DE-K the valve cover was a terrible ground and it completey fixed my problems after moving it.

 

Sounds like you have a vaccum leak somewhere, same thing happened when I tried to start my friends car after the install.

 

the grounds really don't move much and having a hard time cutting it loose from the main bundle. Hmm maybe ill run to the store for a quick wire to run from the battery over to the grounds.

 

Yea, the wires cant really move to another location so I just bolted it to the valve cover and ran a wire from there to the timing chain cover which I made sure had a good ground. Just temporarily connect it straight to the battery because its a quick way to see if it has anything to do which your problem.

As SDot82 said, it can definitely be a vac leak also.

 

I know of one on top of the manifold that is still open to the outside air, ill get some caps to block them all off.

 

yeah vacuum leaks definitely hurt performance

make sure you adjust the throttle stopper screw, now that your iacv is external (as opposed to the thru tb design you need to open your throttle more at startup, many members are having a cold start issue where you need to hold the gas a little during the first 20 seconds of startup so the engine doesn't die.

which rear valve cover, ingintion coils did you use? stock or 2001?

if i recall 2001 model dek motors don't have egr at all. good luck.

 

they are the 2001 coils.
ive just resigned my title where my dad lives so no more emission but doesnt egr give better gas milage??? i thought you run the rear header, get a 00 egr guide tube to run the 4th gen egr on the 2001 motor which ill get done by summer when its nice out. I was wondering if you get after market headers don't you lose egr function?!?! any shout outs would be nice, im going to go work on her and fit whats left and see.

Also for the stopper screw is that on left or right of throttle body? i was thinking of just bring the cable back a bit more so it holds it open a little always. I hope tho my transmission codes go away there scaring me.....

 

sweet she is alive..... no idle she dyes if i let off gas, only had her running for maybe 20 seconds tho but damn she sounds nice how do i get this good idle now!?! i hope the TPS is not too off....

 

Right now I am not running a IACV and I have a 5th gen TB which does not have an adjustment screw. I just have the cable adjusted so it idles fine and I plan to fab up the IACV sometime when it gets warmer out.

 

so what the iacv controls the idle? well how does this 1500 warm up temp work? I got my idle cool by adjusting the cable, i guess i should start testing out adjusting the iacv.

So what is point of evap and egr? I can hook up the evap real easy and what it seems to bring in a vapor gas mix to the engine from the gas tank? but the egr is off and why put it on? does this really increase mpg? Just looking for the last couple of answer.

also i gotta wire up this rpm switch and drop my TS ecu in.

1) Power from battery <--> Left Pin
2. RPM Switch Yellow <--> Right Pin
3. RPM Switch White <--> White w/ Blue Stripe Wire in ECU Harness
4. RPM Switch Gray <--> Ignore
5. RPM Switch Black <--> Ground
6. RPM Switch Red <--> Cig Lighter or battery
so what i just cut into the white w/ blue stripe white in the ecu? i don't mind doing it but need some help in picturing it. So i just cut the wire shell off, wrap it around the wire, soldier and seal it back up? sounds easy....

 

car wont go fast in drive. Its like no power and i don't know how to reset this damn transmission codes or why its being this way. Does anyone have some guide on some other set up to reset these codes i don't wanna pay nissan 70 bucks to do nothing as they have always done. I was low on fuild in trans after my drive which ill fix tomorrow. also the radiator keeps smoking?!?! maybe too much coolant too water?!?!, i didnt want to freeze in the cold so maybe i didnt 60/40 coolant. car doesnt run hot at least gauge doesnt say hot after rev in N at 5-6k. car has been sitting 5 months, didnt want to freeze in this cold wisconsin, back to my wine i black out too much on whiskey!!!!!! I did a search and foudn the MAF to be bad and not going pass 3k?!?

 

Valve covers are NOT a good ground. Move to Timing chain or lower IM or Tranny/Engine block

 

so ill try changing my MAF, i want my sick lady to ride