question on removing a/c
question on removing a/c
this would be on a 1997 model maxima. thinking about removing the a/c the climate here is mild, gas is 6 dollars a gallon, dont use it now.
1. how difficult is this job ? and how long approx would it take ?
2. is there a write up anywhere, maybe someone could do a search for me and post up some threads.
3. I have heard some people say in total its 40 lbs and other say 20-25 lbs. Anyone done this and weighed all the parts ?
4. Pros/Cons ?
thanks in advance
c
1. how difficult is this job ? and how long approx would it take ?
2. is there a write up anywhere, maybe someone could do a search for me and post up some threads.
3. I have heard some people say in total its 40 lbs and other say 20-25 lbs. Anyone done this and weighed all the parts ?
4. Pros/Cons ?
thanks in advance
c
Its not very difficult. There are only 4 bolts I believe holding the compressor, pretty straight forward if you have a look at it from underneath.
Yes you need to get a new belt because of the reduced length, get a 4 rib vs 6 because you are only running the alt.
Compressor = 17 lbs
Condensor = 7 lbs
Evaporator = 7 lbs (you need to get under the dash and open up heater-a/c unit to remove it)
Total = 31 lbs including lines.
Yes you need to get a new belt because of the reduced length, get a 4 rib vs 6 because you are only running the alt.
Compressor = 17 lbs
Condensor = 7 lbs
Evaporator = 7 lbs (you need to get under the dash and open up heater-a/c unit to remove it)
Total = 31 lbs including lines.
Ceasar I think that white unit directly behind the console is the heater unit assembly with all the air doors etc
If I'm not mistaken the cooling unit which contains the evaporator is to the right of that sucker up and under the dash... (but I'm sending you some pics on AIM)
If I'm not mistaken the cooling unit which contains the evaporator is to the right of that sucker up and under the dash... (but I'm sending you some pics on AIM)
You are close. Its in the middle. Use the firewall where the lines enter and exit as a gauge, the evaporator is located directly where the lines enter and exit. The heater core lines are the same.
Originally Posted by DandyMax
Jim is this what you're referring to? Does the whole dash have to come off and then how easy is it to get that assembly apart to get to the evaporator?
I don't think it was too difficult to get it apart but I did it last fall and I have done a ton of other stuff since so my brain is a bit fuzzy, happens when you reach your golden years.
See what I circled in the last post I thought WAS the heater core but I thought you were saying that was the evaporator. I was thinking the evaporator was in the cooling unit... ie where I've circled in this pic below... Am I way off? I've never taken apart my A/C so I wasn't sure where it was. But yeah tracing the lines would help if I actually had a car to trace them on. lol
Chris I checked the Haynes manual and it has some good info and pics. Specifically, check out pages 3-9 to 3-15 and picture 11.11 is good.
But basically it looks like I was right before, the evaporator is in/behind the black unit I circled on the pics I sent you on AIM (the same black unit in your pic above). So the white box on the left is the heater core housing, the middle black one is the evaporator housing, and to the right of it is the blower unit.
But basically it looks like I was right before, the evaporator is in/behind the black unit I circled on the pics I sent you on AIM (the same black unit in your pic above). So the white box on the left is the heater core housing, the middle black one is the evaporator housing, and to the right of it is the blower unit.
I've done it. It's not hard at all. I weighed everything exactly and got 34 lbs out of it. This is for the VE motor.
Compressor 18lbs
Condensor 8 lbs
AC Drier, all lines, and AC idler pulley 7lbs
and a shaved AC pulley lightened my UDP by 1 pound.
I didn't mess with the heater core b/c I need that for the track and winter time. It will help cool your motor down quickly after a 1/4 mile run.
Also, you have to plug the 2 AC lines on your firewall. I just found the perfect sized rubber corks and plugged them. Then put duct tape over it and zip tied it to make absolutely sure the cork wouldn't work it's way lose onto the track.
Here's a shot of my shaved ASP UDP. On the VE, the AC rib is the outer most rib. It's not shared with any other accessory.
Compressor 18lbs
Condensor 8 lbs
AC Drier, all lines, and AC idler pulley 7lbs
and a shaved AC pulley lightened my UDP by 1 pound.
I didn't mess with the heater core b/c I need that for the track and winter time. It will help cool your motor down quickly after a 1/4 mile run.
Also, you have to plug the 2 AC lines on your firewall. I just found the perfect sized rubber corks and plugged them. Then put duct tape over it and zip tied it to make absolutely sure the cork wouldn't work it's way lose onto the track.
Here's a shot of my shaved ASP UDP. On the VE, the AC rib is the outer most rib. It's not shared with any other accessory.
Originally Posted by BlackMaxGTR
for you guys that have done this, what did you do with the line in the side of the radiator?? did anything leak out when you removed it??
that may be what im talking about, i saw this thread a few days ago and later on i went outside to do something under the hood and i looked around the ac compressor and thought i saw one going into the radiator that i thought would be a problem, BUT it was really dark so i couldnt see that well
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