RPM switch
03-05-2006, 05:19 PM
#1
RPM switch
I just need info on where the rpm switch should get a tach signal from. I guess i want the ecu setting. So ive seen a white wire with green or blue? ive seen two different post. So do i expose the wire or can i set it off the ecu some how?
Also ive seen the RPM switch in the car which is what i want. so where do i put the one wire into the bay from the cabin? i guess ill just try and put it thru with the ecu wires.
Also ive seen the RPM switch in the car which is what i want. so where do i put the one wire into the bay from the cabin? i guess ill just try and put it thru with the ecu wires.
03-05-2006, 05:35 PM
#2
you can get the tach signal from the white with green stripe it is a bit of a pain to expose the wire YOU HAVE TO BE EXTREMELY CAREFULL not to rip it. Not many people know this but you can get the tach from an injector or coil too i believe. The tach wire is usually like this... Say injector one has a black and then the other wire has a blue with yellow stripe, and injector two has a black on one wire and red with green stripe on the other wire you will want the wire that has a different color wire on every injector clip. Same goes for the Coils I believe the there are two commons on the coil pack wires... I think a red and a black and the third wire changes colors on every plug. I hope i explained it well.
03-05-2006, 05:42 PM
#3
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I belive you want to use the ecu wire, not sure which one or you can hook it up behind your gauges on the tam screw. I think the injector/coil thing is if you are using a harlem switch. I ran mine off the tam screw, pretty easy that way, but it probably isn't as acurate as getting the signal from the ecu would be
If you pull the black fender gaurd out on teh drivers side, you can see a rubber gromet there to run the wire through. What I did was make a hole in the grommet first and then near the end of the wire you are running to the engine bay, fold it over and push it through with a dull flat head screwdriver
If you pull the black fender gaurd out on teh drivers side, you can see a rubber gromet there to run the wire through. What I did was make a hole in the grommet first and then near the end of the wire you are running to the engine bay, fold it over and push it through with a dull flat head screwdriver
03-05-2006, 07:21 PM
#4
Originally Posted by motocross416
I belive you want to use the ecu wire, not sure which one or you can hook it up behind your gauges on the tam screw. I think the injector/coil thing is if you are using a harlem switch. I ran mine off the tam screw, pretty easy that way, but it probably isn't as acurate as getting the signal from the ecu would be
If you pull the black fender gaurd out on teh drivers side, you can see a rubber gromet there to run the wire through. What I did was make a hole in the grommet first and then near the end of the wire you are running to the engine bay, fold it over and push it through with a dull flat head screwdriver
If you pull the black fender gaurd out on teh drivers side, you can see a rubber gromet there to run the wire through. What I did was make a hole in the grommet first and then near the end of the wire you are running to the engine bay, fold it over and push it through with a dull flat head screwdriver
03-05-2006, 09:02 PM
#5
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yep, right behind the driver's wheel, inside the cabin, I believe its to the left of the clutch and up a bit higher, if you stick your hand in there, you should be able to feel the grommet and all the wires going into it
03-09-2006, 04:06 PM
#6
Originally Posted by motocross416
yep, right behind the driver's wheel, inside the cabin, I believe its to the left of the clutch and up a bit higher, if you stick your hand in there, you should be able to feel the grommet and all the wires going into it
1) Power from battery <--> Left Pin
2. RPM Switch Yellow <--> Right Pin
3. RPM Switch White <--> White w/ Blue Stripe Wire in ECU Harness
4. RPM Switch Gray <--> Ignore
5. RPM Switch Black <--> Ground
6. RPM Switch Red <--> Cig Lighter
Now the only the cig lighter and ground are left. Now where is a good grounding place inside cabin by the ecu? the bolts where the ecu was locked in?
03-10-2006, 03:54 PM
#9
i got it working already, its the white with green wire on the ecu. I here the tam screw can be off. It works great! i first set the rpm switch to like 2400 and i felt power when it came on, which was about 4300. now i get it set to 3400 on the switch which seems about 5k.
03-10-2006, 07:29 PM
#11
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Originally Posted by zander
hmm, the light on my harlan lights up at the exact rpm i set it at according to the tach.
MaxGordon7 - I'm can't remember whether you have the MEVI or 00VI, but if you have the MEVI, you can open your hood and watch the thing activate while keeping an eye on the tack to get it closer
03-10-2006, 09:29 PM
#12
i put in a 2001 motor, ya i know its working. Ive put the 4th gen KS on, and set at 3400 on the summit. the green light comes on just before 5k and i feel that is good for me. Found a dyno close to me for a good price, he says he does alot of mustangs. I can get an hour for like 95 bucks with A/F. Other wise its like 2 pulls with A/F for 75, 3 with A/F for 85 or an hour for 95. I want to test out my stock ecu vs Ts ecu, then maybe ill try changing the rpm setting point.
03-10-2006, 10:40 PM
#14
the only thing that makes me mad is my idle is funky. Its like first off ill get it set, then when i go into drive or reverse it will drop down 100-200 rpms. Now it will sometime after i run her hard just go really low, idle at 200 rpms like its going to die. I got the tps set as far as it can go, for i hold open the throttle a bit. I was thinking maybe ill just set it for 950 in park so its 750 in drive. I dont have the 4th gen iavc hooked up to the intake manifold, at first i did but then i took it off. I hope to dyno next week or so, going to MN tomorrow for 2-3 days. Party time! hope the maxy stays ok. I gotta call back and see if i can get run files to post on here. I hope my results are good with the TS ecu, otherwise ill pick up a VAFC2
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