Okay guys. I did start her up today and it started on the first try. It sat at about 1600rpm for a good min and then all of a sudden the idle jumps from 1600 to 2200rpm. Now everytime I start it, its immediately has a jumpy idle. I can hear this knocking, I cant quit figure out. It sounds almost like rod knock but at the same time it sounds like something else, it didnt do it at first when it was idling at 1600rpm so it makes me think its not the motor but with the jumpy idle I cant tell it apart. I took a short video of the sound, its very audible. This is very upsetting!!!

I'm running stephen max's IACV plate. 4th gen LIM. No audible leaks that I can hear.
I research in a little bit and so far I've found one thread that had similar problem in terms of the jumpy idle, I think from max4speed? There were a few suggestions and potentially being the TPS but the thread never came up with the solution.

Anyone got any suggestions please chime in. ANY help is appreciated. Thanx!

Here is the video, as you can see/hear: the jumpy idle and about 10 secs into it it you can hear the knocking...



http://s6.photobucket.com/albums/y24...t=129_2962.flv

 

Try calibrating the TPS..

 

where did you ground the engine harness too IT MUST BE GROUNDED otherwise you will get the jumpy idle. But the knocking... That doesnt sound good.

http://media.putfile.com/01-DE-k-in-my-97

That is a vid of my motor. Let me know if you have any questions ill gladly help you

 

okay, I will try to calibrate the tps. It's held on by two screws correct?
On the knocking issue, I have an idea that it may be my EVAP vibrating on the IM since its isnt bolted down and its in that area. I crawled underneath the car it doesnt seem to come from the block, its higher up. We'll have to see.
I will have to check once I get back to glennmoorax's house tomorrow. My hunch is that is shouldnt be rod knock but I would have to inspect the car more closely since it was 11pm when we first started it and the neighbors probably hate use for that.

 

The ground for the harness is located on the LIM right? I dunno how well the LIM provide a ground I will look into that.

 

If you watch my video you can see that i have them grounded ontop of my front valve cover they are located right in the engine harness that is between the upper intake manifold and the front valve cover. Sand down that bolt hole with sand paper to make a good ground.also make sure the contact rings are clean too and then tighten them down with a bolt that threads in that hole.

 

Could be the iacv ticking loudly. My does it becausue I need to replace it.

 

Adjust the TPS; http://vbxmaxima.8m.com/tps.html

 

But really if he never touched or removed the TPS & it was fine when it was on the USIM then that shouldn't be a problem. Def worth checking though.
Which lower IM did you use? Almost sounds like a vacuum or fuel issue.

 

The idle isn't jumpy anymore, but it idle's around 3K and we can't get it to go down.... Also, the knock has somewhat subsided and it can't be heard hardly at all, if at all...

 

okay this is jcy98maxse. The idle was at a steady 2800rpm when i adjusted the tps but the tps % on the safc was like 5+% so I backed it down. It idle even better once some of the vacuum was rerouted, its more at 1500rpm now. How can I get it down to normal? The knock is still there but not as loud. We think it might be cyclinder 6 is not firing or misfiring since we unplugged it and the knock went away. Could that be possible? I would have to look further into it.

 

The more and more I read and research about it, it might be spark knock. My egr is not hooked up yet and the motor was extremely dirty from the looks of the junk that was in the headers so I'm not suprise if the cyclinders are full of carbon built up.

Anyone know what I can do to bring the idle back down under 1k? I played with the TPS already, the screw on the TB is nearly out all the way to where the TB plate is almost closed. The TB have a little slack in it then normal. Other than that I have no idea what else to check. I will also change the plugs and check the coilpacks to see about the spark/knock issue.

 

Adjust the TPS to FSM specs & don't worry about what the SAFC% says... that can be reset.
If it's misfiring you should be throwing a CEL, pull the codes.

 

the only codes we pulled was the MAP code 1302?! We fixed that but it idle's high still, I guess we will see how the next couple of days go, it seems like we are having some bad luck with this swap.

 

Did some more troubleshooting. I think I have a vacuum leak from the LIM to the Upper IM, I can hear a hissing from the rear injector area. The idle seems to be stable but still around 1500-1600rpm. I played with the IACV screw, the screw being tight, the idle sits at a stable 1500ish rpm. If I start loosing it out, it starting hunting for idle bouncing from 1500-1700rpm. Still havent been able to bring the idle down but I will fix that leak and go from there.

The knock issue is still there, the sound cuts in and out from time to time. When it knocks, I can hear it right at start up: knock knock knock and goes away, Then I would have to listen hard for it. Very subtle underneath all the noise but when I rev it, it gets a little louder. It matches the sound of the exhaust also.

Anyone got anymore insight to this? I'm running outta ideas and am thinking that I really got a bad motor. Again thanx for the help.

 

run some seafoam in it. sounds like a sticky valve. i had a problem like that in my 3rd gen

 

From everyone that has listen to it first hand, they all are saying rod knock/bearings. Another thing that I saw was actual metal shavings (believe to be copper) not alot but some when I dropped the lower oil pan since it was leaky from the first time I swap mine over. The knock is as loud as the very first time I started it and in the video. Now I am worried that they wont honor their warrantee. Anyone has any experience with a bad junk yard motor?
The warrantee states that I have to ship the motor or physically drive the car there for their inspection which is not possible since its almost 2000 miles away. The shipping cost would be over $200+ my time of taking it back out and I only paid $300+ shipping($225) for it so its not even be worth it to ship it back. I'm just wondering on what grounds can I make my case stronger with them so that they dont believe that I'm trying to con them out of the cost of the motor. I already have a local shop that would back me up in regards to the motor being bad, I have video and my purchase is well in their 30 day period.
I asked the junk yard specifically about the condition of the motor and they said that it ran good but apparently their definition of good didnt include a knocking motor. I understand I took a gamble with a junk motor but like many others, a rod knock was the last thing that was on my mind whenI made the purchase especially for a motor that only has 50K miles.

 

how did you pay for it? if with a credit card you can use them to get your money back, saying the motor was not checked and you got a bad motor. Then id part out that motor, i mean at least get 200-300 if not more for the manifold plus you got hella sensors, that should make it not so bad on the time you wasted to put the engine in. Then id get a LQK junk yard or greenleaf i hear is great for used parts. id do www.car-parts.com and do distance search. I always try to talk them down too, ask for a discount all they can say it no. I even get discounts on my parts from the auto parts store. Hope it goes well. Even if you can't get your money back, you can part off and make some of it back. But i would be pretty hard up on getting my money back and then just keeping the motor for my time wasted.

 

I'm thinking you have enough proof, but it's hard to say what they are willing to do. And nothing you can do seems feasible.

It's also interesting that a VQ would get rod knock at only 50k... That motor must have been treated like dirt.

 

Well they were very strict on the pricing. I found them on car-parts, there were a few places that had the same mileage and pricing for what i was looking for and this had the best shipping rate. I paid by visa check card. All I'm hoping for is for them to refund my $300 since they clearly state that they dont refund shipping, they even sent my a list of guidelines for their engine warrantee which alot of them are some what ridiculous. The motor didnt come with anything at all, just the bare minimun: not sensors or coilpacks. I'm debating if I should revert back to a DE or get another DEK since i have the manifold already other than that I know the DEK have better cooling and different cams, which both are appealing for my boost setup. If I get another motor, I will go with something a lot close or from LKQ, they seem to be a big company. I check Greanleaf but they dont have any good deals, all their motors have over 70k and they still want over 1k for them. I dont know how some of you guys got under 15k miles motor for so cheap. They are closer to me too since they are in NV.

 

You have to work them down on the price sometimes. My motor was listed for $660 with 8,500 miles on it from Greenleaf. I wound up paying $690 with all of the warentees, along with a parts and labor warentee where they actually pay for the re-install of the new motor is something should happen. DcMan got his for $550 with 1000 more miles than mine. Alot of their motors on there are listed for over a grand with 60-70K miles on them. I beleive there that much because they prob just got them in within the year. This motor was sitting for 4 1/2 years !!!

-matt

 

Im also very surprised of the knock after 50K miles.

Did you do any checks on the motor before you purchased it to make sure the mileage was correct ??
Run the VIN #
Call up NissanUSA and match the VIN # with the ESN # on the Block ??

All these things you should have done before purchasing.

-matt

 

on buying from LKQ.. They shipped my engine to me for free. You cannot beat that.

 

Well here is a slight update. Finally did a carfax, it shows that the car traveled from WA to Oregon, in Nov 04, it was issued a savage/rebuilt title. No accident reported then but the car traveled to MA from OR in Jan 05. 2 months later, it lands in a ditch. Probably did a horrible job rebuilding it or something...
Started her up one last time yesterday before we took the motor out, it def sound like spung bearings and rod knock. It sqweaks like a gerbil wheel.

 

I am having the same problem with my swap. My idle is staying between 13-15000 rpms. I am clueless on how to fix this. I have been reading many threads, I do not have a safc or vafc on the car yet.

Could that be my problem? I have no thermostrat in the car also. Could that be part of the problem?