3.5 Swap no start
#41
Biggs and chris.. When you guys put back the timing chain, did you set the crank so that cyl 1 is TDC, and ON the compression stroke? I think the crank timing gear will still line up when the engine is in either positions.. (compression stroke, and exhaust? stroke)
EDIT: Just found out it doesnt matter which stroke its on, just as long as cyl 1 is TDC.
EDIT: Just found out it doesnt matter which stroke its on, just as long as cyl 1 is TDC.
#42
Originally Posted by Nismo3112
Biggs and chris.. When you guys put back the timing chain, did you set the crank so that cyl 1 is TDC, and ON the compression stroke? I think the crank timing gear will still line up when the engine is in either positions.. (compression stroke, and exhaust? stroke)
EDIT: Just found out it doesnt matter which stroke its on, just as long as cyl 1 is TDC.
EDIT: Just found out it doesnt matter which stroke its on, just as long as cyl 1 is TDC.
I am not sure since i wasn't there when they put the chain on, but that would make alot of since being that all my timming chains are set correctly.
#43
well i mean i followed what the fsm said about aligning the chain and such. It seems as though i'm only getting that backfire from on piston. Rear passenger. and yeah i have to hold down the gas to keep it going or it just dies. So i guess my best bet is to pull the engine and redoing the timing huh? oh and i got the drilling done by tilley. So how do i know if it's on TDC? do i like stick my finger in the clyinder and wait till i feel compression or something? and which cylinder is clyinder 1?
#48
Originally Posted by Nismo3112
It's all in the FSM, but yes it should be added to the sticky.
#49
Originally Posted by mforrest100
OK. So besides the sticky you need to have an FSM on hnad. Cool. I will get one. Stupid question: What does FSM stand for and where can I get one? I am assuming the "M" is for manual....(LOL)
www.phatg20.net
Yer welcome...
#50
Originally Posted by nismology
OK. Do I need a special program to open this file? Can't seem to open it.
#52
Originally Posted by Nismo3112
Biggs and chris.. When you guys put back the timing chain, did you set the crank so that cyl 1 is TDC, and ON the compression stroke? I think the crank timing gear will still line up when the engine is in either positions.. (compression stroke, and exhaust? stroke)
EDIT: Just found out it doesnt matter which stroke its on, just as long as cyl 1 is TDC.
EDIT: Just found out it doesnt matter which stroke its on, just as long as cyl 1 is TDC.
#54
there are 3 marks on the timing chain to line up with the sprockets.
to find where piston 1 is at TDC, put the crank pulley on and turn it until the marks on it line up with the line on the timing chain cover, then you know that piston 1 is at tdc.
also when the piston 1 is at TDC, the cam lobes on intake and exhaust cams will be pointing at each other like this / \
getting the 3.0 timing chain and gears to sit right, and setting the timing is the most important part of the swap. as well as sealing the timing chain cover with rtv sealant so there's no leaks.
to find where piston 1 is at TDC, put the crank pulley on and turn it until the marks on it line up with the line on the timing chain cover, then you know that piston 1 is at tdc.
also when the piston 1 is at TDC, the cam lobes on intake and exhaust cams will be pointing at each other like this / \
getting the 3.0 timing chain and gears to sit right, and setting the timing is the most important part of the swap. as well as sealing the timing chain cover with rtv sealant so there's no leaks.
#56
Originally Posted by Niz-Dat
I don't mean to hijack this thread but I can't seem to be able to start a new post. Why do you drill the cams and not the sprocket when adding the vq35 cams to a vq 30.
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=430880
#59
Originally Posted by Biggs_02
might sound stupid but....which piston is piston 1??? the rear left?
So yes, that would be rear left if you are standing in front of the car looking at the engine
#60
Originally Posted by Niz-Dat
I have a Bridgeport mill and it looks to me to be far easier to indicate the hole in the sprocket and drill a hole 180 deg from the sprocket hole. I am wondering if it matters which one is drilled?
#61
Originally Posted by Niz-Dat
I have a Bridgeport mill and it looks to me to be far easier to indicate the hole in the sprocket and drill a hole 180 deg from the sprocket hole. I am wondering if it matters which one is drilled?
#64
ok i opened it up today. took a look and everything seems to be right. hmm one thing though....the cams on the right side of the engine (the inner pistons) turns really easily...but the cams on the left side (the outter pistons) turns really hard...is that suppose to be like that??
#65
Originally Posted by Biggs_02
ok i opened it up today. took a look and everything seems to be right. hmm one thing though....the cams on the right side of the engine (the inner pistons) turns really easily...but the cams on the left side (the outter pistons) turns really hard...is that suppose to be like that??
where exactly did you line everything up? and how did you wire everything?
#66
Originally Posted by tavarish
those are the valve springs working. make sure all the cam sprockets are in sync with the crank, and in sync with themselves. that's a 2 person job, or a difficult 1 person job, because one has to hold the cams and the other has to align the timing chain.
where exactly did you line everything up? and how did you wire everything?
where exactly did you line everything up? and how did you wire everything?
so are you saying that my rear valve springs are f-ed up? that's why it's so easy to turn and anywhere i turn it...it'll stay there unlike the front ones? i'm positive that i line everything up right after i opened it up. and for the injectors i just cut the 3.0 and solder the 3.5's on
#68
Originally Posted by Biggs_02
so are you saying that my rear valve springs are f-ed up? that's why it's so easy to turn and anywhere i turn it...it'll stay there unlike the front ones? i'm positive that i line everything up right after i opened it up. and for the injectors i just cut the 3.0 and solder the 3.5's on
Thanks,
-Freddy
#69
Thanks guys. It was the timing. We managed to pick up a 100% functional vq30 for free from my friend and put that timing in. The difference between the two timing material was "wow." The new engine was super clean and it was easy to see the timing chain marks, etc. We just turned her on today and with only 1 try she started. No more knocking/poping/backfire or anything.
#73
as you see...the motor is in and everything is in. It starts easily but then the idle goes up and down up and down from 1K to like 700 and the engine shakes alot at that point. But when it's above 1k, it's all good. I took it for a test drive and there was no power whatsoever...it was like driving a honda civic. any clues?? i'm not running an IACV btw.
#76
Originally Posted by Biggs_02
as you see...the motor is in and everything is in. It starts easily but then the idle goes up and down up and down from 1K to like 700 and the engine shakes alot at that point. But when it's above 1k, it's all good. I took it for a test drive and there was no power whatsoever...it was like driving a honda civic. any clues?? i'm not running an IACV btw.
could be your bracket for the tps as well.
also TAKE YOUR DAMN TB CABLE BRACKET OFF THE FIREWALL.
#77
cable is off the wall already :-D even before you said that...vaccum leak i'm thinking that might be it. The tps...i did a pretty good job for the tps so i don't know about that. fuel pressure is right on.