Biggs and chris.. When you guys put back the timing chain, did you set the crank so that cyl 1 is TDC, and ON the compression stroke? I think the crank timing gear will still line up when the engine is in either positions.. (compression stroke, and exhaust? stroke)

EDIT: Just found out it doesnt matter which stroke its on, just as long as cyl 1 is TDC.

 

I am not sure since i wasn't there when they put the chain on, but that would make alot of since being that all my timming chains are set correctly.

 

well i mean i followed what the fsm said about aligning the chain and such. It seems as though i'm only getting that backfire from on piston. Rear passenger. and yeah i have to hold down the gas to keep it going or it just dies. So i guess my best bet is to pull the engine and redoing the timing huh? oh and i got the drilling done by tilley. So how do i know if it's on TDC? do i like stick my finger in the clyinder and wait till i feel compression or something? and which cylinder is clyinder 1?

 

Might need to add this to the stickey. I read that thing 1000 times I didn't say anything about installing the timing equipment with the #1 piston TDC.

 

It's all in the FSM, but yes it should be added to the sticky.

 

if the timming equipment wasn't installed with the 1st cylinder at tdc, could that cause the front bank compression to be off and not the rear?

 

No because if the number 1 cylinder is off they're all off.

 

OK. So besides the sticky you need to have an FSM on hnad. Cool. I will get one. Stupid question: What does FSM stand for and where can I get one? I am assuming the "M" is for manual....(LOL)

 

FSM= Factory service manual

www.phatg20.net

Yer welcome...

 

Good look. Downloading as we speak.....

OK. Do I need a special program to open this file? Can't seem to open it.

 

I use winrar.

Get it from download.com

 

I learned the same thing, cause the crank only moves 360*

 

any update?

 

there are 3 marks on the timing chain to line up with the sprockets.

to find where piston 1 is at TDC, put the crank pulley on and turn it until the marks on it line up with the line on the timing chain cover, then you know that piston 1 is at tdc.
also when the piston 1 is at TDC, the cam lobes on intake and exhaust cams will be pointing at each other like this / \

getting the 3.0 timing chain and gears to sit right, and setting the timing is the most important part of the swap. as well as sealing the timing chain cover with rtv sealant so there's no leaks.

 

I don't mean to hijack this thread but I can't seem to be able to start a new post. Why do you drill the cams and not the sprocket when adding the vq35 cams to a vq 30.

 

Check this link:

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=430880

 

I have a Bridgeport mill and it looks to me to be far easier to indicate the hole in the sprocket and drill a hole 180 deg from the sprocket hole. I am wondering if it matters which one is drilled?

 

might sound stupid but....which piston is piston 1??? the rear left?

 

#1 is front cylinder, right bank (ie. firewall side - right side of car)

So yes, that would be rear left if you are standing in front of the car looking at the engine

 

Yes it does matter.. And the hole you are supposed to drill isn't 180* from the stock hole.

 

Just order the cam spacers/adapters from Tilley. Save you all the headache and worry of screwing up the timing.

 

wait...will the timing chain markings align if it's not on TDC??

 

No



12345678

 

ok i opened it up today. took a look and everything seems to be right. hmm one thing though....the cams on the right side of the engine (the inner pistons) turns really easily...but the cams on the left side (the outter pistons) turns really hard...is that suppose to be like that??

 

those are the valve springs working. make sure all the cam sprockets are in sync with the crank, and in sync with themselves. that's a 2 person job, or a difficult 1 person job, because one has to hold the cams and the other has to align the timing chain.

where exactly did you line everything up? and how did you wire everything?

 

so are you saying that my rear valve springs are f-ed up? that's why it's so easy to turn and anywhere i turn it...it'll stay there unlike the front ones? i'm positive that i line everything up right after i opened it up. and for the injectors i just cut the 3.0 and solder the 3.5's on

 

oh yeah and did i mention that i wasn't getting backfire from all the pistons? just like from 1 or 2 from the back...that's where the sound was coming from.

 

try turning them a few times. it should be easy, but get hard in some places. that's the valve springs working. take a pic of the timing setup and send it to me. my aim sn is xodeathbloomsox

Thanks,
-Freddy

 

Thanks guys. It was the timing. We managed to pick up a 100% functional vq30 for free from my friend and put that timing in. The difference between the two timing material was "wow." The new engine was super clean and it was easy to see the timing chain marks, etc. We just turned her on today and with only 1 try she started. No more knocking/poping/backfire or anything.

 

Awesome. I'll be joining you 3.5 guys in a few days.

 

maybe I should have taken pics before I yanked off all my 3.0 timing equipment

the marks are a little worn off.

 

my old marks were so hard to see...i guess i thought it was the mark but it wasn't...i'm guessing the old owner didn't change the oil on time so the whole inside was full of burned oil.

 

as you see...the motor is in and everything is in. It starts easily but then the idle goes up and down up and down from 1K to like 700 and the engine shakes alot at that point. But when it's above 1k, it's all good. I took it for a test drive and there was no power whatsoever...it was like driving a honda civic. any clues?? i'm not running an IACV btw.

 

Compression check at once.

 

compression off = i need to get new motor?

 

fuel pressure is off, or vacuum leak. post a vid.

could be your bracket for the tps as well.

also TAKE YOUR DAMN TB CABLE BRACKET OFF THE FIREWALL.

 

cable is off the wall already :-D even before you said that...vaccum leak i'm thinking that might be it. The tps...i did a pretty good job for the tps so i don't know about that. fuel pressure is right on.

 

I don't think u would get that big of a power loss with a vacuum leak..

 

would a vaccum leak cause my idle to go up and down?

 

these are the codes that i got after a drive to autozone....
p0110 = IAT
p0120 = TPS
p0135 = o2
p0155 = o2

could the TPS sensor be messed up and messing everything up?