3.5 Swap no start
#1
3.5 Swap no start
so i'm doing a 3.5 swap in the 95. i got a 5spd, using 3.0's oil pan and timing. Just finished installing engine back into the car the other day and try to crank it....got nothing. I hear the starter trying to crank it, but nothing. I got fuel pressure, i got fuel in the cylinders, have yet to do a compression test. So i tested the spark plugs today. Seems like i'm not getting a spark at all. Am i doing the test right? stick a sparkplug into it and crank. i tried with different coil and plugs. Try with a brand new coil and plugs. Tried with a coil that is working in my other car....nothing......help please?
#3
its a crank (pos) i bet.make sure that is plugged and make sure it has the correct resistance.also make sure you installed the crank(ref) sensor in the right direction.
edit:for the spark test make sure you ground the tip of the plug.
edit:for the spark test make sure you ground the tip of the plug.
#4
i ran a obd2 test = no codes...........but dont' my car have to first start then i can read the codes? the cps is the one on the timing side right? the one up top? i didn't even take that one out when i was doing my timing stuff...so yeah it should be in the wrong position how can i know if it's hte correct resistance? and where is the "crank(ref)" sensor located at??
#13
Originally Posted by Biggs_02
3.5 cams. Hmm it started today, i was doing a spark test and all got spark except for one...tried a different coil pack too...same thing...any ideas?
#15
Originally Posted by mforrest100
So are you saying the car is running now or not? If it is, I would still like to know why it wasn't running initially.
to be honest....i have no idea.....we just took out the spark plugs and then got all the fuel out and put it back in and crank it again and it started........My dad, bro, and i were working on it and we have no idea why it just started...and i'm using spacers
#17
Originally Posted by Biggs_02
to be honest....i have no idea.....we just took out the spark plugs and then got all the fuel out and put it back in and crank it again and it started........My dad, bro, and i were working on it and we have no idea why it just started...and i'm using spacers
Mike
#18
it's running reallly bad...i think it's my injector o-rings. i kinda didn't buy new ones when i put the injectors into the z manifold. So i went out and bought some today. I'm gonna try again see if everything if fine after i get the o-rings. also i'll take a look at the cps and swap it with my other 4th gen to see if i get any spark!
#20
Originally Posted by Biggs_02
it's running reallly bad...i think it's my injector o-rings. i kinda didn't buy new ones when i put the injectors into the z manifold. So i went out and bought some today. I'm gonna try again see if everything if fine after i get the o-rings. also i'll take a look at the cps and swap it with my other 4th gen to see if i get any spark!
#22
try using the 3.5 crank sensor and see if that changes anythings.to do so get some self tapping connects.you do this by connecting them to the correct wires and then leaving the 3.0 connector unconnected.(just incase you didnt no)
#23
so i installed new o-rings today and then i tried to crank the car....and guess wat? nothing nada....I'm not getting any fuel pressure and the fuel pump is not evne pumping. The fuse is in...i checked the fuse too and i replaced the fuse...i replace the fuel pump with a working pump. I can't even hear the fuel pump pumping....i'm so lost and don't know wat's going on at all........help?
#24
Originally Posted by Biggs_02
so i installed new o-rings today and then i tried to crank the car....and guess wat? nothing nada....I'm not getting any fuel pressure and the fuel pump is not evne pumping. The fuse is in...i checked the fuse too and i replaced the fuse...i replace the fuel pump with a working pump. I can't even hear the fuel pump pumping....i'm so lost and don't know wat's going on at all........help?
#25
well i regrounded everything. Ran a ground to the engine too. Fire it up it works. hmm engine is not running smooth at all. the same coil that is not sparking is still not sparking. guess i have to run and get another crank sensor and see if it improves.
#26
Originally Posted by Biggs_02
well i regrounded everything. Ran a ground to the engine too. Fire it up it works. hmm engine is not running smooth at all. the same coil that is not sparking is still not sparking. guess i have to run and get another crank sensor and see if it improves.
#28
humm thats weird , dont give up
i dont know for the coil , think you can do several test
Did you manage to get a iacv ?
This was post by multiplexor in the 4gen FAQ
Mods remove if you will, i figure it might be handy
How to verify if your coil packs work!
Engine worked with: 1996 maxima
Requires: An ohmmeter (cheap purchase at radio shack....)
Conditions: Make sure your engine is cold, or it'll be hot on your hands
you have 6 Ignition coil packs. 3 up front and 3 near your firewall. (when asking for new ones, they are referred to as L and R)
3 are hidden behind the plastic piece on your engine that says NISSAN... simply remove the bolts and remove the plastic piece.
once removed, you should see 3 coil packs. un plug and test them one at a time.
I won't go into how to remove them since it should be fairly obvious Simply remove both bolts (do one coil pack at a time...) and pull the coil pack out. i had one where it was very hard to get out... so you may have to pull hard...
Once out, look at the area where you removed the electrical plug. You should see a "+" on the back end of the electrical plug. There should also be the letter "B"....
the spot where you see the positive symbol, means that's prong number one on the electrical connector.
To test:
Turn on your ohmmeter and place the positive wire on the 1st prong in the electrical plug of the coil pack. The negative wire should be touching the middle prong. Verification of the ohmmeter at this time should say "0" aka infinite... if it's anything else, the pack should be changed. Next test: reverse the wires... positive on the middle prong and negative on the 1st prong.... on a new coil pack, it should give a value of approximately 1.3-1.7 mega ohms. If any of the readings are off, replace the coil pack.
Note: Firewall coil packs are extremely easy to find, simply look in the cracks of the intake header. you'll see 3 similar looking coil packs to the front ones. The exception with these is that they are longer and look a slight bit different. removal is the same process as the front coil packs. Simply pay special attention to not dropping the screws in the intake area... it'll be hard to get out
to test: follow the front coil pack testing method. Look for the Positive symbol, this is your first prong... and go from there.
Good luck...
i dont know for the coil , think you can do several test
Did you manage to get a iacv ?
This was post by multiplexor in the 4gen FAQ
Mods remove if you will, i figure it might be handy
How to verify if your coil packs work!
Engine worked with: 1996 maxima
Requires: An ohmmeter (cheap purchase at radio shack....)
Conditions: Make sure your engine is cold, or it'll be hot on your hands
you have 6 Ignition coil packs. 3 up front and 3 near your firewall. (when asking for new ones, they are referred to as L and R)
3 are hidden behind the plastic piece on your engine that says NISSAN... simply remove the bolts and remove the plastic piece.
once removed, you should see 3 coil packs. un plug and test them one at a time.
I won't go into how to remove them since it should be fairly obvious Simply remove both bolts (do one coil pack at a time...) and pull the coil pack out. i had one where it was very hard to get out... so you may have to pull hard...
Once out, look at the area where you removed the electrical plug. You should see a "+" on the back end of the electrical plug. There should also be the letter "B"....
the spot where you see the positive symbol, means that's prong number one on the electrical connector.
To test:
Turn on your ohmmeter and place the positive wire on the 1st prong in the electrical plug of the coil pack. The negative wire should be touching the middle prong. Verification of the ohmmeter at this time should say "0" aka infinite... if it's anything else, the pack should be changed. Next test: reverse the wires... positive on the middle prong and negative on the 1st prong.... on a new coil pack, it should give a value of approximately 1.3-1.7 mega ohms. If any of the readings are off, replace the coil pack.
Note: Firewall coil packs are extremely easy to find, simply look in the cracks of the intake header. you'll see 3 similar looking coil packs to the front ones. The exception with these is that they are longer and look a slight bit different. removal is the same process as the front coil packs. Simply pay special attention to not dropping the screws in the intake area... it'll be hard to get out
to test: follow the front coil pack testing method. Look for the Positive symbol, this is your first prong... and go from there.
Good luck...
#32
here's a video you should be able to hear the popping noise
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D1RFOyy7pI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D1RFOyy7pI
#33
Originally Posted by Biggs_02
here's a video you should be able to hear the popping noise
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D1RFOyy7pI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4D1RFOyy7pI
#40
Ha thats how my car sounds. Wish i could help but i am still trying to figure out what is wrong w/ mine.
Sounds like most of the time you have to give it gas to turn over and then once you get it started 90% of the time you have to give it gas to keep it running? And i also got a backfire nosie a couple of times.
Sounds like most of the time you have to give it gas to turn over and then once you get it started 90% of the time you have to give it gas to keep it running? And i also got a backfire nosie a couple of times.