I had TDC nicely set, cylinder #1 cams were pointed inward like they should be, marks on the crank pulley lined up well. I went to remove the crank pulley bolt and it was very stubborn. It wouldn’t give with my 3’ brake bar and I hear it skip teeth why I was trying to break the bolt free.

I am now wondering how can I set TDC once I get this bolt out? Manually rotating the engine isn’t the same, I get a lot of resistance at a certain part, so I assume something is hit each other.

My TDC shots before it skipped teeth





thanks

 

When you remove and reinstall the tensioner it hasn't been bled of the air and doesn't have enough strength on it's own to keep tension on the chain when the crank is being turned counterclockwise. This causes the chain to slack elsewhere and leads to the chain skipping teeth. If the crank pulley is in the general vicinity of the TDC position it's fine. Just remove the cover, remove the chain, then move everything back into place. The motor doesnt have to be exactly at TDC when removing the cover.

 

Gotcha, Hopefully I can get this crank pulley bolt off, and I'll snap some pics, and make some adjustments.

I was aiming for TDC so once I remove the crank pulley and the outter cover, I gut out the 3.5 equipment, put the spacers on, and put it right back in and seal up.

I'll be back at it tonight

 

Don't forget the brake cleaner and the gasket scraper to clean all that old RTV off of there. Setting TDC is really really easy with the timing cover off. Most people worry about it way more than they should.

 

I wasnt worried about it, till I heard it skip a few links, and then become difficult to rotate the crank pulley at certain parts. I thought something is not off and maybe a valve is hitting the head.

When I do get time to work on it, Everything seems to just go smooth, in a little time I had to work on it, I got the manifold off, whole wiring harness off, valve covers, outter timing case bolts. I'm hoping to get that bolt out so I can get out the 3.5 and put the 3.0 equipment in and seal it up.

 

What method are you using to remove the crank pulley bolt? Are you putting a box wrench on one of the cams?

 

yes sir, cresent wrench on the cam at the proper location + 3' break bar. My impact wrench (345ft/lbs) seemed useless.

Going to bolt a spare flywheel up, jam that, add some WD-40 (like that will do much) and if needed start to add heat to the bolt if all else failes

 

Sometimes, you just need to use brute force. Where a 650 ft. lb impact didn't work for me on the tranny fill hole, my muscles took care of it. You won't need to use heat, all you'll need is some serious force. I hope you're not bone *** skinny.

Get that crescent wrench on there, put a towel under it so you don't damage the head, get your breaker bar, and break it loose. It is ok if you sweat you know.

[Inspiration] C'mon wimp, what's wrong with you! Break that bolt free NOW!![/Inspiration]

 

Oh...you're taking the 3.5 apart for the first time. I thought you had put it together already. I should've known. The 3.5 water pump hole cover gave it away...

 

I definately am not bone skinny. I thought I was putting too much muscle into it because it started to skip teeth when I went hulk on it. So I realized power and finness would be needed to get the bolt off and not skip more teeth.

I'm hoping when I bolt up a fly wheel and jam that up plus a wrench on the cams, I should be able to break to bolt free, I'll add a pipe to the end of my brake bar and hopefully I can break that bastard loose, If so I dont care about work I'll stay up all night and get the 3.0 on set and sealed up.

 

I just took off the 3.5 timing equipment today and I left the chains tight until I had the crank pulley bolt off. Took the outer timing cover off and put the crank bolt back in so if it move I could turn it back. When I got to the cam bolts those boitchs were hard to get off compared to the crank pulley. Took me at least 10-15 (with my impact gun) to loosen them up. After I had all the bolts loose I made sure everything was in place and then took off the timing chain. Tomorrows job is assembling 3.0 timing.

 

Thanks to a great idea by diymaximakid. I bolted back up the flexplate, jamed it up, and used a 3' brake bar a proper 1/2" socket, and jumped and pushed down with my body weight, bolt came off with ease.

Now the progress can contiue. Previously when I had skipped teeth, turns out the chain had slipped at the water pumpand the chain was off.

So now I'm resetting TDC, I took the timing chain off, and I aligned the cams to TDC and will align the crank to TDC on cyl 1, and then pull off all the timing, clean up and put the 3.0 on. I'm just glad that crank bolt is off. . . what a bastard.




Ninja Edit: and I use my muscles Goaliekeg!, got it off with no air tools

 

Atta boy!!! I knew you could do it!!

 

My next 3.5 swap, we will be using a 1000 ft/lb impact..

 

Oh you're buying another maxima to drop the 3.5 into?? Kthxbye...

 

The exhaust cams were just as hard getting off as the crank for me but my electric ridgid impact wrench got them off.

 

That's the one i have. It's a beautiful thing...

 

I think I got it because you have it and said work very good, so I bought it. And yes it is a beautiful thing.

 

set the timing for the crankshaft, then just align the timing marks on the cam sprockets. the same thing happened to me on my swaps.

 

I almost bought one before diymaximakid said he had and idea that should work.
I have dewalt electic impact, it made very short work of the exhaust cams on the 3.0, hopefully it can do it again.

cams are already lined up, the crank is lined up with the mark but I'm going to rotate it and make sure its at TDC on cyl 1. It certainly wasnt at TDC when I Took the bolt off. Plus the chain had slipped off earlier when making an attemp to get the crank bolt off. Just for peace of mind I'll make sure its at TDC and then pull everything off.
maybe an S14?

 

I used NO AIRTOOLS OR BIG POWER TOOLS. anyone wanna challenge that?????

i did have a 9volt cordless impact(makitia)